[Z06] Kooks header install-help needed
04-22-2009, 09:02 AM
#41
Drifting
Thread Starter
Unbolt the motor mount from the bottom. On the drivers side remove the alt. steering shaft, oil filter. coil rack temp sensor, and plugs. Lift the motor with a scissor jack until you contact the cowl at the top of the engine compartment with the fuel rail. Once you get it at the correct angle, it will almost fall in. On the passenger side remove, the same bottom bolt on the engine mount, starter, plugs, battery box wall and coil rack. Lift the motor the same way. The correct angle again and it will almost fall in. I would not hammer them in any way. There is no easy way or short cut. The Kooks instructions are good and if you follow them EXACTLY you will have the fewest problems. With these cars there are no short cuts on anything. Be sure the car is about 30 inches off the ground. I did mine by myself but I have good air tools and a pneumatic jack so it was not as hard as it could have been. Good luck. The best advice I can give you is to be patient and take your time. Frustration will make it twice as hard. 
04-22-2009, 09:04 AM
#42
Drifting
I had them both unbolted on the first day. I tightened down the passenger side because George from Kooks said to only unbolt one side at a time so the motor would roll more than raise when I jacked it up. How are people unbolting the mounts, the top 18mm nut, the bottom 18mm nut or the three bolts in the block?
04-22-2009, 12:44 PM
#43
Here you go
Kooks Custom Headers
1997/2004 C5 Corvette installation instructions
Thank you for your purchase, we appreciate your business
Do not attempt this installation if proper safety equipment isn’t available to you. Seek the assistance of a professional installer.
Kooks C5 headers install from the top of the vehicle. Raising and securing the vehicle with jack stands is a must if a lift is not available.
To install this system you will need only the general assortment of hand tools. But you will also want to have on hand the following, oil filter removal tool, and drain pan, four jack stands, one hydraulic jack, a gasket scraper, anti seize, a spray lube, [WD40], also surgical gloves, and safety glasses.
It’s a good idea to spray the WD40 to help loosen the connections and fasteners at this time. While the lube is doing its job, we can start the installation.
#1—Disconnect the battery using a 10mm wrench.
#2—Remove the plastic engine covers and the coil pack assembles.
#3—Remove the spark plug wires and the spark plugs. Also remove the alternator.
#4—Disconnect the air filter assembly from the engine.
#5—Disconnect the steering shaft at the rag joint.[just enough to separate it.]
#6—Raise the vehicle, and secure with jack stands. The vehicle will need to be 24inches off the ground.
Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com
1of 3
#7—Unplug front and rear oxygen sensors, but remove only the rears at this time. Also disconnect the two emission connections on the exhaust manifolds.
#8—Remove the starter, and disconnect the temperature-sending unit it’s located in front of the number one exhaust port, drivers side.
#9—Carefully remove the oil filter from the motor and disconnect the oil sender unit.
#10—Remove the manifolds and the complete exhaust system. [if being reused, the cat back system will need to be modified as explained below]If you are replacing the complete exhaust system, remove the two 13mm nuts that hold the connection pipes in place. They are located just forward of the flange of the connection pipes. You can then remove the two front oxygen sensors.
#11—With care, inspect and clean the exhaust port surfaces using a gasket scraper. These heads are aluminum.
#12—Both left and right headers install from the top. The engine needs to be raised. One side at a time! Also keep the opposite side motor mount bolt loose. When raising the engine to install the header, raise the engine as high as possible. On the driver’s side, remove the two ground wires from the block. Also remove the male and female rear oxygen sensor connections from
one another, and pop out the retaining clip that holds the sensor to the chassis allowing the connections to hang down, not to be in the way as the header is lowered into place.
[On the driver’s side, it may require some prying of the engine to one side in order to allow the header to slide in.]
Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com
2of 3
#13—Install the passenger side header, but do not secure it to the cylinder head until you install the starter first.
#14—Coat the threads of the oxygen sensors with ant-seize and install them into the Kooks headers, along with the emission connections. Then atach the headers and gaskets. Install the bolts, and tighten completely.
#15—Reinstall all items previously removed. The steering shaft, spark plugs and wires, air filter assembly, the engine covers, coil pack assembles, and the reconnecting of the battery.
Please note: Take extra care with all wiring, A/C hosing, fuel and brake lines, to see that there is clearance around the headers. You have just installed the finest exhaust system you can buy, enjoy it.
If you are using your factory catalytic converters. The inlet pipes on both converters will need to be cut at the weld. New inlet pipes will need to be positioned between the headers and the cat’s. Then they will need to be welded to the cat’s
You have just installed the finest exhaust system you can by, enjoy it.
Important note: All air fittings installed on C5 headers are made to be used. If fittings are no longer needed, we highly recommend the orifice be welded shut, and the fittings removed. Due to vibration we’ve discovered that the use of block off plates can cause welded fittings to fail. We highly discourage there use.
Kooks Custom Headers
1997/2004 C5 Corvette installation instructions
Thank you for your purchase, we appreciate your business
Do not attempt this installation if proper safety equipment isn’t available to you. Seek the assistance of a professional installer.
Kooks C5 headers install from the top of the vehicle. Raising and securing the vehicle with jack stands is a must if a lift is not available.
To install this system you will need only the general assortment of hand tools. But you will also want to have on hand the following, oil filter removal tool, and drain pan, four jack stands, one hydraulic jack, a gasket scraper, anti seize, a spray lube, [WD40], also surgical gloves, and safety glasses.
It’s a good idea to spray the WD40 to help loosen the connections and fasteners at this time. While the lube is doing its job, we can start the installation.
#1—Disconnect the battery using a 10mm wrench.
#2—Remove the plastic engine covers and the coil pack assembles.
#3—Remove the spark plug wires and the spark plugs. Also remove the alternator.
#4—Disconnect the air filter assembly from the engine.
#5—Disconnect the steering shaft at the rag joint.[just enough to separate it.]
#6—Raise the vehicle, and secure with jack stands. The vehicle will need to be 24inches off the ground.
Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com
1of 3
#7—Unplug front and rear oxygen sensors, but remove only the rears at this time. Also disconnect the two emission connections on the exhaust manifolds.
#8—Remove the starter, and disconnect the temperature-sending unit it’s located in front of the number one exhaust port, drivers side.
#9—Carefully remove the oil filter from the motor and disconnect the oil sender unit.
#10—Remove the manifolds and the complete exhaust system. [if being reused, the cat back system will need to be modified as explained below]If you are replacing the complete exhaust system, remove the two 13mm nuts that hold the connection pipes in place. They are located just forward of the flange of the connection pipes. You can then remove the two front oxygen sensors.
#11—With care, inspect and clean the exhaust port surfaces using a gasket scraper. These heads are aluminum.
#12—Both left and right headers install from the top. The engine needs to be raised. One side at a time! Also keep the opposite side motor mount bolt loose. When raising the engine to install the header, raise the engine as high as possible. On the driver’s side, remove the two ground wires from the block. Also remove the male and female rear oxygen sensor connections from
one another, and pop out the retaining clip that holds the sensor to the chassis allowing the connections to hang down, not to be in the way as the header is lowered into place.
[On the driver’s side, it may require some prying of the engine to one side in order to allow the header to slide in.]
Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com
2of 3
#13—Install the passenger side header, but do not secure it to the cylinder head until you install the starter first.
#14—Coat the threads of the oxygen sensors with ant-seize and install them into the Kooks headers, along with the emission connections. Then atach the headers and gaskets. Install the bolts, and tighten completely.
#15—Reinstall all items previously removed. The steering shaft, spark plugs and wires, air filter assembly, the engine covers, coil pack assembles, and the reconnecting of the battery.
Please note: Take extra care with all wiring, A/C hosing, fuel and brake lines, to see that there is clearance around the headers. You have just installed the finest exhaust system you can buy, enjoy it.
If you are using your factory catalytic converters. The inlet pipes on both converters will need to be cut at the weld. New inlet pipes will need to be positioned between the headers and the cat’s. Then they will need to be welded to the cat’s
You have just installed the finest exhaust system you can by, enjoy it.
Important note: All air fittings installed on C5 headers are made to be used. If fittings are no longer needed, we highly recommend the orifice be welded shut, and the fittings removed. Due to vibration we’ve discovered that the use of block off plates can cause welded fittings to fail. We highly discourage there use.
04-22-2009, 05:27 PM
#45
Advanced
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Canonsburg PA
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No luck tonight and I had a helper. Had the drivers side just about in but the front cylinders header pipe got stuck on the alternator bracket and the back of the header was stuck on the brake booster. This time I had just the drivers side engine mount unbolted and jacked up but I need about 1/2 more clearance. My buddy was trying to pry the engine towards the passenger side but couldn't get quite enough. I am thinking about unbolting the passenger side engine mount and having him pry it over while I wiggle it into place. I am so close but ran out of time.
04-23-2009, 11:55 AM
#46
Drifting
Thread Starter
From the top.
I had that problem with the alternator bracket, too. Had to take that off as well. The first time we were able to squeeze them in with the bracket on, but it's much easier without. There is one bolt on the alternator bracket I could only turn about 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and couldn't get a ratchet or ratchet wrench on it. It's worth taking the time to remove the bracket though.
I had that problem with the alternator bracket, too. Had to take that off as well. The first time we were able to squeeze them in with the bracket on, but it's much easier without. There is one bolt on the alternator bracket I could only turn about 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and couldn't get a ratchet or ratchet wrench on it. It's worth taking the time to remove the bracket though.
04-23-2009, 11:59 AM
#47
Race Director
I used a 2 x 4, that I slide in between the frame rail and alternator braket to roll the engine over to get headers out.
04-23-2009, 12:28 PM
#48
Racer
I just intalled my Kook's headers last week and they were a bear!!! Call me I can walk you through it with the right tools and people it will go smooth. On the drivers side you need to disconnect the steering shaft and move it up to get the header in! I had three nights in my header job! I can give you tricks to help!!! Jeff 216-905-1983
04-23-2009, 12:50 PM
#49
Racer
Member Since: Sep 2008
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i fought with 1 7/8 kooks for a few hours. disconnected the alt., steering shaft, oil filter, starter, grounds and temp sensor and still a no go. even after lifting the engine one side at a time, both sides, etc.. i finally unbolted the four bolts from the front k member so i could drop it down from the rear. after that they went right in, both sides, from the bottom.
it was a pita. i had to get it aligned when it was all put back together.
it was a pita. i had to get it aligned when it was all put back together.
04-23-2009, 09:09 PM
#50
Melting Slicks
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jeeze...note to self...buy a header that you dont have to do all this crap to get in......put in my LGs and my ARH without removing ****...valve covers stayed on....LGs....1 in from top one from bottom...ARH 1 7/8 both from bottom....even with starter in place
04-23-2009, 09:17 PM
#51
Race Director
And just think if you need to remove them, you get to go through all of this crap again.
04-26-2009, 02:05 AM
#52
Drifting
Thread Starter
Success, got both headers in today. Didn't really do anything special to get them in. Had a different helper today and we got the drivers side in pretty easily. We had to unbolt and move the a/c line. So now I need new oil, coolant, and freon but the headers are in. Thank you everyone for all of your help.
04-26-2009, 08:53 AM
#53
Melting Slicks
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freon, coolant, and a oil change....thats prob over 100 bux...could have put that 100 towards more expensive headers and not had to change all that...glad theyre in....if you ever sell the car...just leave those B's on haha
whens the cam going in?
whens the cam going in?
04-26-2009, 11:08 AM
#54
Le Mans Master
It is never a good idea to pull an AC line. Anytime you disconnect an AC line you have to completely evacuate (vacuum) and recharge with the proper mix and volume of refrigerant and oil. It is not as simple as plugging in a R134 can from an auto parts store.
04-26-2009, 07:57 PM
#55
Drifting
Thread Starter
Had the coolant and oil already in preparation for the cam change. I will investigate further how to get the a/c system back in order. Kurt, I bought the Kooks used on this forum so I saved significantly. As far as the cam goes, I am getting a new hood painted for the car in a couple weeks and while the stock hood is off I'm going to do the cam. I have also told myself that I have to finish some jobs around the house first before more car stuff. In all honesty, if i had someone helping the whole time the header install probably wouldn't have been such a hassle. Now that they are in the fitment is really quite good. Thanks again to everyone for their help.
