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[Z06] Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact
#21
Melting Slicks
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I 've changed mine a couple of times and it is still dark, gonna keep doing it until its clear.
Can you mix DOT 4 with DOT 3 in the clutch system?
Ranger, thanks for all the info
Can you mix DOT 4 with DOT 3 in the clutch system?
Ranger, thanks for all the info
#22
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Originally Posted by Pio
I 've changed mine a couple of times and it is still dark, gonna keep doing it until its clear.
Can you mix DOT 4 with DOT 3 in the clutch system?
Ranger, thanks for all the info
Can you mix DOT 4 with DOT 3 in the clutch system?
Ranger, thanks for all the info
FYI I tried Valvoline Supersyn DOT4 in my 2001 and found that it turned black almost immediately. Believe it reacted badly to some property in the hydraulics. I went back to Prestone DOT3 and it was fine for me.
My suggestion is to stick with a fluid that is clear or a pale color so that you can detect a color change. Super Blue Racing, is good for the brakes but is very dark blue and almost impossible to detect a color change in.
Ranger
#23
Drifting
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Originally Posted by Ranger
A dealer will make $$ on your non-warranty repair. So you would expect them to advocate the replacement of all the clutch parts including the hydraulics. That is the recourse GM followed to cure the dreaded sticking pedal syndrome. But many of us avoided or cured the issue with regular changing of the fluid.
Draw out the funky fluid with a syringe like this one, available at Walmart and most auto part stores. Picture of Syringe
Ranger
Draw out the funky fluid with a syringe like this one, available at Walmart and most auto part stores. Picture of Syringe
Ranger
#24
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Yes, you Can mix DOT 4 with DOT 3 in the clutch system.
FYI I tried Valvoline Supersyn DOT4 in my 2001 and found that it turned black almost immediately. Believe it reacted badly to some property in the hydraulics. I went back to Prestone DOT3 and it was fine for me.
My suggestion is to stick with a fluid that is clear or a pale color so that you can detect a color change. Super Blue Racing, is good for the brakes but is very dark blue and almost impossible to detect a color change in.
Ranger
FYI I tried Valvoline Supersyn DOT4 in my 2001 and found that it turned black almost immediately. Believe it reacted badly to some property in the hydraulics. I went back to Prestone DOT3 and it was fine for me.
My suggestion is to stick with a fluid that is clear or a pale color so that you can detect a color change. Super Blue Racing, is good for the brakes but is very dark blue and almost impossible to detect a color change in.
Ranger
This might be why mine is turning black quickly - I'm using Valvoline as well and the clutch feels a little sticky at times, do you think this might be why?
#25
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Originally Posted by Pio
This might be why mine is turning black quickly - I'm using Valvoline as well and the clutch feels a little sticky at times, do you think this might be why?
Again. Use a clear fluid and change it when it is no longer clear. If you don't deviate from this procedure, your clutch pedal will not stick.
Ranger
#26
Premium Supporting Vendor
Pio,
Outside of the potential issue with the fluid you are using (I used essentially clear Wilwood EXP 600 Plus brake fluid), it did take me about a half dozen changes before it started staying clean. Now I bleed mine so often that it is always clean.
Outside of the potential issue with the fluid you are using (I used essentially clear Wilwood EXP 600 Plus brake fluid), it did take me about a half dozen changes before it started staying clean. Now I bleed mine so often that it is always clean.
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#27
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by Subdriver
Pio,
Outside of the potential issue with the fluid you are using (I used essentially clear Wilwood EXP 600 Plus brake fluid), it did take me about a half dozen changes before it started staying clean. Now I bleed mine so often that it is always clean.
Outside of the potential issue with the fluid you are using (I used essentially clear Wilwood EXP 600 Plus brake fluid), it did take me about a half dozen changes before it started staying clean. Now I bleed mine so often that it is always clean.
#28
Melting Slicks
Only problem with the syringe is that it does NOT get the nasty junk out of the lines. It will help a "lil" bit, but most likely just discolor the new fluid from the old fluid still present in the hydraulic system. This won't be getting the grimey junk out thats down in the system by the slave....... I have seen some GRIMEY clutch fluid.
Proper flushing is a real PITA. The bleeder valve needs to be opened at the slave and force the junk out. That is what I have installed a remote bleeder in my car and a few friends have as well.. It makes flushing the entire system a 5 minute procedure.
steve
Proper flushing is a real PITA. The bleeder valve needs to be opened at the slave and force the junk out. That is what I have installed a remote bleeder in my car and a few friends have as well.. It makes flushing the entire system a 5 minute procedure.
steve
#29
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Originally Posted by FixedRoof
Only problem with the syringe is that it does NOT get the nasty junk out of the lines. It will help a "lil" bit, but most likely just discolor the new fluid from the old fluid still present in the hydraulic system. This won't be getting the grimey junk out thats down in the system by the slave....... I have seen some GRIMEY clutch fluid.
Proper flushing is a real PITA. The bleeder valve needs to be opened at the slave and force the junk out. That is what I have installed a remote bleeder in my car and a few friends have as well.. It makes flushing the entire system a 5 minute procedure.
steve
Proper flushing is a real PITA. The bleeder valve needs to be opened at the slave and force the junk out. That is what I have installed a remote bleeder in my car and a few friends have as well.. It makes flushing the entire system a 5 minute procedure.
steve
Folks that change the clutch master cylinder/slave ought to install a remote bleeder too. Does make the full flush easier. But is not necessary for keeping the fluid fresh if you follow the syringe routine.
Ranger
#30
Drifting
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I am happy to report that the blue car is back on the road after the turkey baster treatment.....(too bad it's gonna rain today, though)
Thank you again, Ranger! If I ever get work done on the cylinder I will have a bleeder installed.
Thank you again, Ranger! If I ever get work done on the cylinder I will have a bleeder installed.
#31
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Originally Posted by Blooty
I am happy to report that the blue car is back on the road after the turkey baster treatment.....(too bad it's gonna rain today, though)
Thank you again, Ranger! If I ever get work done on the cylinder I will have a bleeder installed.
Thank you again, Ranger! If I ever get work done on the cylinder I will have a bleeder installed.
Ranger
#32
Motul 600?
Ranger, I'm curious why you didn't move to a higher temp fluid like the Motul 600 or Wilwood. Seems like this would help? Thanks for your informative posts!
John
John
#33
Le Mans Master
I just dropped my 2001 Z off at the dealership to get them to warranty the Slave Cylinder and try to get them to warranty the clutch itself, as it drags when the Slave Cylinder does not release all the way. Worst case, I will have a new Slave Cylinder (they redesigned it in 2002, I believe) and new fluid. I have been changing the resevoir for a while now (every 3k miles, since I bought the car 2 years ago). Doing this gave me peace of mind that I had good fluid, but did not help the hydraulics at all. I have had this issue for a while now. Finally brought it in to have it dealt with because the rear seals on the rear end are leaking pretty steadily...yesterday, I had little drops of rear end grease all over the rear end of my Z! I'll keep you all posted as to whether they replace the clutch under the warranty. I have the GMPP extended warranty that ends this July 5th. Need to get stuff done now!
#34
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Originally Posted by jlvink66
Ranger, I'm curious why you didn't move to a higher temp fluid like the Motul 600 or Wilwood. Seems like this would help? Thanks for your informative posts!...
Haven't tried the super race brake fluids.
Ranger
#35
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by FixedRoof
Proper flushing is a real PITA. The bleeder valve needs to be opened at the slave and force the junk out. That is what I have installed a remote bleeder in my car and a few friends have as well.. It makes flushing the entire system a 5 minute procedure.
steve
steve
Thanks,
Steve
p.s. Any pics of the install would be greatly appreciated.
#36
Premium Supporting Vendor
Originally Posted by FasterIsBetter
Where did you get the remote bleeder set-up? I'd like to get one for my '03 Z.
Thanks,
Steve
p.s. Any pics of the install would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
p.s. Any pics of the install would be greatly appreciated.
#39
Intermediate
heat shields for clutch hydraulics
I have a 01 Z06 and have the sticking pedal problem on road tracks. I have gone through all of this thread and will put in high temp brake fluid and the bleeder valve. Super Blue has a light colored version; the following link is to a vendor of same: http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
Has anyone put any type of heat shield between the exhaust system and the clutch hydraulics? If so, where and did you have to make it?
Has anyone used the exhaust/heater wrap to help keep temps away from clutch components? Did it help? Has anyone found stainless lines for the clutch system fluids?
Has anyone put any type of heat shield between the exhaust system and the clutch hydraulics? If so, where and did you have to make it?
Has anyone used the exhaust/heater wrap to help keep temps away from clutch components? Did it help? Has anyone found stainless lines for the clutch system fluids?