DIY - Oil Pressure Sensor Remove and Install - by Vectorz
11-29-2004, 01:55 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
DIY - Oil Pressure Sensor Remove and Install - by Vectorz
The existing DIY, and LS1howto.com's writeup was not detailed enough for most of us newbie mechanics. So I put together this step by step with pictures, for anyone who wants to use it. So it took me about 4 hours to remove the intake (which is 99% of the procedure) because I had no idea what I was doing, the aforementioned writeups were not detailed and even inaccurate. However, with the use of this DIY writeup, I think most people can get through it in less than an hour.
DISCLAIMER: I don't take any responsibility for any mistakes in this document, nor do I take responsibility for any damages to your vehicle by following this document. Use at your own risk.
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Oil Pressure Sensor Removal and Installation Procedures
STEP1
a) The three green circles in the following picture indicate two electrical plugs and one hose that need to be disconnected from the throttle body.
b) The red circles indicate the two screws that need to be opened up to remove the airbridge.
STEP2
a) The two green circles indicate a pin type rivet that can be removed by popping the top pin of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver. This will allow the airbridge to be completely removed.
b) The red circle indicates an electrical plug that should be disconnected also.
STEP3
a) Just a pic of the open throttle body, and another view of the hoses and plugs that need to be removed (green circles). Disconnect them if you haven't already.
b) The green ARROW points to the coolant hose that passes to the throttle body. This needs to be disconnected. Take a pair of pliers to the clamp on the hose that keeps it connected to the throttle body.
STEP4
a) Disconnect both plugs circled in green. The one on the right is easily removed by pressing down on the white ring and pulling the plug out.
b) The yellow arrow is a hose that *WAS* attached to the airbridge. Hopefully you've disconnected that from the airbridge already.
c) The red arrow indicates a hose that is attached to the bottom of the throttle body. This one is a b1tch to disconnect because of positioning as well as corrosion. Remove the clamp w/ pliers and yank hard, it will eventually come off.
STEP5
a) Passenger side (right side) fuel injectors (red circles). Disconnect all 4 of these by pressing the metal spring and pull the injectors out.
STEP6
a) Driver's side (left side) fuel injectors (red circles). As seen in the picture, all 4 need to be disconnected.
b) The items circled in green ***SHOULD NOT*** be disconnected. These are areas that I accidentally disconnected while going through blindly. They belong to the "EVAP Purge Vacuum Switch".
STEP7
a) The hoses circled in green are the braided fuel lines. You have to use a GM fuel line removal tool (as seen in the picture pointed by the RED ARROW).
b) This step is *NOT NECESSARY*, however, I felt it makes it easier. When the fuel lines are disconnected, you will have a small amount of fuel spill so have a rag handy to catch it.
STEP8
a) This picture shows what the two fuel lines (green circles) look like with the hoses disconnected (red circles).
STEP9
a) The 8 circled green bolts need to be removed with an 8mm socket wrench.
b) The two green arrows point to two hidden bolts that also need to be opened up (also 8mm), but using a standard wrench instead of a socket wrench. If you use a socket wrench, it will get stuck when you've opened the bolts up. These bolts cannot be lifted out of the intake at this time. Refer to the next step.
STEP10
a) The two green arrows point to those two hidden bolts. Once they've been opened up, you need to lift them up about 2 inches to give you enough clearance to pull on the intake. I used tape (as seen in the pics) to keep the bolts lifted, and free up my hands so that I could pull the intake.
DISCLAIMER: I don't take any responsibility for any mistakes in this document, nor do I take responsibility for any damages to your vehicle by following this document. Use at your own risk.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Oil Pressure Sensor Removal and Installation Procedures
STEP1
a) The three green circles in the following picture indicate two electrical plugs and one hose that need to be disconnected from the throttle body.
b) The red circles indicate the two screws that need to be opened up to remove the airbridge.
STEP2
a) The two green circles indicate a pin type rivet that can be removed by popping the top pin of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver. This will allow the airbridge to be completely removed.
b) The red circle indicates an electrical plug that should be disconnected also.
STEP3
a) Just a pic of the open throttle body, and another view of the hoses and plugs that need to be removed (green circles). Disconnect them if you haven't already.
b) The green ARROW points to the coolant hose that passes to the throttle body. This needs to be disconnected. Take a pair of pliers to the clamp on the hose that keeps it connected to the throttle body.
STEP4
a) Disconnect both plugs circled in green. The one on the right is easily removed by pressing down on the white ring and pulling the plug out.
b) The yellow arrow is a hose that *WAS* attached to the airbridge. Hopefully you've disconnected that from the airbridge already.
c) The red arrow indicates a hose that is attached to the bottom of the throttle body. This one is a b1tch to disconnect because of positioning as well as corrosion. Remove the clamp w/ pliers and yank hard, it will eventually come off.
STEP5
a) Passenger side (right side) fuel injectors (red circles). Disconnect all 4 of these by pressing the metal spring and pull the injectors out.
STEP6
a) Driver's side (left side) fuel injectors (red circles). As seen in the picture, all 4 need to be disconnected.
b) The items circled in green ***SHOULD NOT*** be disconnected. These are areas that I accidentally disconnected while going through blindly. They belong to the "EVAP Purge Vacuum Switch".
STEP7
a) The hoses circled in green are the braided fuel lines. You have to use a GM fuel line removal tool (as seen in the picture pointed by the RED ARROW).
b) This step is *NOT NECESSARY*, however, I felt it makes it easier. When the fuel lines are disconnected, you will have a small amount of fuel spill so have a rag handy to catch it.
STEP8
a) This picture shows what the two fuel lines (green circles) look like with the hoses disconnected (red circles).
STEP9
a) The 8 circled green bolts need to be removed with an 8mm socket wrench.
b) The two green arrows point to two hidden bolts that also need to be opened up (also 8mm), but using a standard wrench instead of a socket wrench. If you use a socket wrench, it will get stuck when you've opened the bolts up. These bolts cannot be lifted out of the intake at this time. Refer to the next step.
STEP10
a) The two green arrows point to those two hidden bolts. Once they've been opened up, you need to lift them up about 2 inches to give you enough clearance to pull on the intake. I used tape (as seen in the pics) to keep the bolts lifted, and free up my hands so that I could pull the intake.
Last edited by vectorz; 12-06-2004 at 03:11 AM.
11-29-2004, 01:56 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Continued
STEP11
a) With the two bolts taped (lifted clearance), you should just pull the intake up a bit and pull it towards the front of the vette. Don't pull it all the way out because there is still a hose and map sensor plugs attached in the back. The pic shows what the intake will look like once you've pulled it forward a little bit.
STEP12
a) This picture was taken sideways to get a better view of the hose and plug that you have to disconnect. Both are circled in green.
b) After these two things have been disconnected, you can fully take out the entire intake with the throttle body attached.
STEP13
a) Here is a pic of the engine without the intake & throttle body. And opening the clearance to what you've been waiting for. The Oil Pressure Sensor is indicated by the green circle in the picture. I don't remember which socket size to use but it needs to be a deep socket. Pretty simple removal and installation, as it isn't in there extremely tight, you'll have plenty of clearance to put a socket wrench and deep socket in there. Just make sure you remove the electrical plug connector that goes to the Oil Pressure Sensor, before you try to remove it. Install the new one, and plug the electrical connector back in.
b) The item circled in red looks like a plastic straw. Just pay attention to this when you re-install the intake, there is a hose (on the back side of the intake right next to the map sensor) that it needs to reconnect to (hose is shown in the STEP14 picture).
STEP14
a) Here is a picture of the removed intake, and the hose mentioned in STEP13b is circled in green. When you re-install the intake, just make sure the red plastic stick (in red circle of picture on STEP13) is fitted back into this hose.
b) From here, after you've installed the new Oil Pressure Sensor, the re-installation of the intake manifold should be exactly in reverse order.
INSTALLATION COMPLETE
------------------------------------------------------------------
If there are any comments or suggestions, or if I've made any mistakes please let me know.
a) With the two bolts taped (lifted clearance), you should just pull the intake up a bit and pull it towards the front of the vette. Don't pull it all the way out because there is still a hose and map sensor plugs attached in the back. The pic shows what the intake will look like once you've pulled it forward a little bit.
STEP12
a) This picture was taken sideways to get a better view of the hose and plug that you have to disconnect. Both are circled in green.
b) After these two things have been disconnected, you can fully take out the entire intake with the throttle body attached.
STEP13
a) Here is a pic of the engine without the intake & throttle body. And opening the clearance to what you've been waiting for. The Oil Pressure Sensor is indicated by the green circle in the picture. I don't remember which socket size to use but it needs to be a deep socket. Pretty simple removal and installation, as it isn't in there extremely tight, you'll have plenty of clearance to put a socket wrench and deep socket in there. Just make sure you remove the electrical plug connector that goes to the Oil Pressure Sensor, before you try to remove it. Install the new one, and plug the electrical connector back in.
b) The item circled in red looks like a plastic straw. Just pay attention to this when you re-install the intake, there is a hose (on the back side of the intake right next to the map sensor) that it needs to reconnect to (hose is shown in the STEP14 picture).
STEP14
a) Here is a picture of the removed intake, and the hose mentioned in STEP13b is circled in green. When you re-install the intake, just make sure the red plastic stick (in red circle of picture on STEP13) is fitted back into this hose.
b) From here, after you've installed the new Oil Pressure Sensor, the re-installation of the intake manifold should be exactly in reverse order.
INSTALLATION COMPLETE
------------------------------------------------------------------
If there are any comments or suggestions, or if I've made any mistakes please let me know.
Last edited by vectorz; 12-06-2004 at 03:09 AM.
11-29-2004, 11:15 AM
#4
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Very nice tutorial.
The first one I did took an hour , the second one took 45 minutes...
Your step by step process is well documented.. nice job, but yours is specifice to 97 and 98 models only..
you do not have to remove the fuel lines or the intake..
you only have to move the intake forward about 6 inches..
There has been a tech tip on this fix in the tech tips second for several years, but in no way does it show what your step by step process does.
Shop time on this 1.4 hours..
4 hours is a lot of time..
many guys have done this DIY fix .
I am sure your picts will help those who need to see exactly what is involved.,.
Again , nice job
The first one I did took an hour , the second one took 45 minutes...
Your step by step process is well documented.. nice job, but yours is specifice to 97 and 98 models only..
you do not have to remove the fuel lines or the intake..
you only have to move the intake forward about 6 inches..
There has been a tech tip on this fix in the tech tips second for several years, but in no way does it show what your step by step process does.
Shop time on this 1.4 hours..
4 hours is a lot of time..
many guys have done this DIY fix .
I am sure your picts will help those who need to see exactly what is involved.,.
Again , nice job
11-29-2004, 12:05 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Very good document. Needs to go in the tech tips! I did not need to remove most of the fuel components. I left the rail, injectors and fuel line connected and just swung the rail with injectors and clips attached out of the way (mostly because I did not have the fuel line disconnect tool). 
11-29-2004, 01:37 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Very nice tutorial.
4 hours is a lot of time..
many guys have done this DIY fix .
I am sure your picts will help those who need to see exactly what is involved.,.
Again , nice job
4 hours is a lot of time..
many guys have done this DIY fix .
I am sure your picts will help those who need to see exactly what is involved.,.
Again , nice job
So what is different in the '00-'04 years from the '97-'99 as far as the intake removal is concerned?
11-29-2004, 01:44 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Agron
why did you have to replace oil pressure sensor in first place thanks
11-29-2004, 03:37 PM
#12
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Thanks for saying my tech tip was not good..."because there wasn't a good write up."
funny how Ive received over 100 thank you's over the last few years.."for my not so good write up"
Im also infatuated by your notion that the second time it took you fifteen minutes.,.. I guess the next thing you will say is Your Daddy can beat my daddy.I tried to be nice to you and pat you on the back.. and you turned around a slammed me..
your pictures were nice but its ten bolts, lift the intake, move it forward six inches and remove the sensor..its not brain surgery.
funny how Ive received over 100 thank you's over the last few years.."for my not so good write up"
Im also infatuated by your notion that the second time it took you fifteen minutes.,.. I guess the next thing you will say is Your Daddy can beat my daddy.I tried to be nice to you and pat you on the back.. and you turned around a slammed me..
your pictures were nice but its ten bolts, lift the intake, move it forward six inches and remove the sensor..its not brain surgery.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; 11-29-2004 at 03:42 PM.
11-29-2004, 05:16 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Thanks for saying my tech tip was not good..."because there wasn't a good write up."
funny how Ive received over 100 thank you's over the last few years.."for my not so good write up"
Im also infatuated by your notion that the second time it took you fifteen minutes.,.. I guess the next thing you will say is Your Daddy can beat my daddy.I tried to be nice to you and pat you on the back.. and you turned around a slammed me..
your pictures were nice but its ten bolts, lift the intake, move it forward six inches and remove the sensor..its not brain surgery.
funny how Ive received over 100 thank you's over the last few years.."for my not so good write up"
Im also infatuated by your notion that the second time it took you fifteen minutes.,.. I guess the next thing you will say is Your Daddy can beat my daddy.I tried to be nice to you and pat you on the back.. and you turned around a slammed me..
your pictures were nice but its ten bolts, lift the intake, move it forward six inches and remove the sensor..its not brain surgery.
Again, don't take it defensively but indeed there were not any good writeups on how to do the main part of this job. For the actual removal of the sensor plug and screwing it back in, I think referring to your tech tip is great.
Yes, the 2nd time around definitely took 15 minutes, and it only took that long because I had to take pictures. I'm not trying to 'race' you, as I already notice how competitive you are. You're taking this waaaay too defensively. Again , you don't realize the only reason I took 4 hours to begin with was because I had to stop and take long breaks while I run to the auto parts store to get the fuel line tool and also the deep socket wrench and also ask questions on the forum about the two rear screws on the intake as well as in regards to the fuel line tool.
It's not like I was hurrying and trying to race time thinking "Oh Evil Twin's gonna beat me". I obviously am not ashamed of the time I took, it's quite realistic if your first time working on this vehicle you're unfamiliar with and don't have the proper tools. Somehow I knew you were going to come back w/ some negative comments. You have to love the internet. You can't do a single positive thing without SOMEBODY there to nag and whine.
Last edited by vectorz; 11-29-2004 at 05:21 PM.
11-29-2004, 06:13 PM
#14
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Originally Posted by vectorz
I think you are taking this defensively. Your tech tip was terrific for the removal of the sensor and reinstalling it. However, what I was saying is for a newbie mechanic (such as myself), it doesn't explain anything of how to get to that point. I believe the extent of the instruction was "remove the intake", when "removing the intake" was 99% of the job. And if you were able to remove the intake on that one basic line of instruction, you definitely would not need to read the tech tip to install the sensor. The sensor is a simple unscrew out, and screw back in.
Again, don't take it defensively but indeed there were not any good writeups on how to do the main part of this job. For the actual removal of the sensor plug and screwing it back in, I think referring to your tech tip is great.
Yes, the 2nd time around definitely took 15 minutes, and it only took that long because I had to take pictures. I'm not trying to 'race' you, as I already notice how competitive you are. You're taking this waaaay too defensively. Again , you don't realize the only reason I took 4 hours to begin with was because I had to stop and take long breaks while I run to the auto parts store to get the fuel line tool and also the deep socket wrench and also ask questions on the forum about the two rear screws on the intake as well as in regards to the fuel line tool.
It's not like I was hurrying and trying to race time thinking "Oh Evil Twin's gonna beat me". I obviously am not ashamed of the time I took, it's quite realistic if your first time working on this vehicle you're unfamiliar with and don't have the proper tools. Somehow I knew you were going to come back w/ some negative comments. You have to love the internet. You can't do a single positive thing without SOMEBODY there to nag and whine.
Again, don't take it defensively but indeed there were not any good writeups on how to do the main part of this job. For the actual removal of the sensor plug and screwing it back in, I think referring to your tech tip is great.
Yes, the 2nd time around definitely took 15 minutes, and it only took that long because I had to take pictures. I'm not trying to 'race' you, as I already notice how competitive you are. You're taking this waaaay too defensively. Again , you don't realize the only reason I took 4 hours to begin with was because I had to stop and take long breaks while I run to the auto parts store to get the fuel line tool and also the deep socket wrench and also ask questions on the forum about the two rear screws on the intake as well as in regards to the fuel line tool.
It's not like I was hurrying and trying to race time thinking "Oh Evil Twin's gonna beat me". I obviously am not ashamed of the time I took, it's quite realistic if your first time working on this vehicle you're unfamiliar with and don't have the proper tools. Somehow I knew you were going to come back w/ some negative comments. You have to love the internet. You can't do a single positive thing without SOMEBODY there to nag and whine.
also going to an F body forum for help ??? Funny how so many guys who are just average DIY mechanics were able to save the cost of a dealer install on this very simple mod. Thanks again for your vote of confidence.. What Im saying is a complete idiot could change the sensor with just alittle input..And it is imposible to do this job in 15 minutes... I have all air tools and its an honest 45 minutes.. and Ive been doing this for 40 years...
"Somwhow you knew I was goiung to come back with negative comments??? " No S.h.i.t. !!!!!!!!
You used my tech tip.. then slammed me for it.. then turned around and lied about the time it took you.,..
11-29-2004, 07:03 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
So are you saying that I should've not made this DIY doc because you already have one that tells me that I should unscrew the sensor and plug it back in to fix my sensor problem?
Yes, an idiot COULD fix the sensor with a little input. So I guess you can call me an idiot for making this document to help out people also.
It's 'IMPOSSIBLE' to do in 15 minutes? I guess I did the impossible than.
Oh so I see the point of this argument. You feel that I've someone 'stolen' your 'thunder' by making this DIY instruction set better than yours.
Well I apologize for 'stealing' your idea. ANYONE ELSE WHO READS THIS DOCUMENT SHOULD IGNORE IT. Please do not use my document. GO and read EVIL-TWINS! His is much BETTER... excuse me for trying to help you guys out. Enough said. End of discussion.
Yes, an idiot COULD fix the sensor with a little input. So I guess you can call me an idiot for making this document to help out people also.
It's 'IMPOSSIBLE' to do in 15 minutes? I guess I did the impossible than.
Oh so I see the point of this argument. You feel that I've someone 'stolen' your 'thunder' by making this DIY instruction set better than yours.
Well I apologize for 'stealing' your idea. ANYONE ELSE WHO READS THIS DOCUMENT SHOULD IGNORE IT. Please do not use my document. GO and read EVIL-TWINS! His is much BETTER... excuse me for trying to help you guys out. Enough said. End of discussion.
11-29-2004, 08:35 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
No it's not the end of the discussion, I want to THANK YOU for an excellent job and your complete effort, I doesn't matter how long it takes, it's the finished job that counts, I have down loaded you procedure for future reference and think it should be included in the forum Tech Tips. GREAT JOB Vectoz
11-29-2004, 08:51 PM
#17
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '03
vectorz, nice job, and don't be discouraged by the resident know-it-all.
His tech tip is great for those who are unsure exactly what the AC/Delco sensor packaging looks like. That's a huge help for most people.
For the rest of us non-GM engineers, your documentation and detailed instructions are quite useful.
His tech tip is great for those who are unsure exactly what the AC/Delco sensor packaging looks like. That's a huge help for most people.
For the rest of us non-GM engineers, your documentation and detailed instructions are quite useful.
11-29-2004, 11:13 PM
#18
Racer
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I wish I had these real life pics about 2 months ago when mine was bad.
definitely a great tutorial for someone that is not mechanically inclined at all!!!!
(another newb mech)
I am horrible with this type of stuff and I definitely need a guiding hand (Picture) to get me through.
I definitely get intimidated working on the vette. My luck I would break something else in the process.
Appreiaite the pics and I just wish I knew some folks that I could watch when they do it on their cars. (before i try it and make a mess)
Thanks again
definitely a great tutorial for someone that is not mechanically inclined at all!!!!
(another newb mech)I am horrible with this type of stuff and I definitely need a guiding hand (Picture) to get me through.
I definitely get intimidated working on the vette. My luck I would break something else in the process.
Appreiaite the pics and I just wish I knew some folks that I could watch when they do it on their cars. (before i try it and make a mess)
Thanks again
11-30-2004, 03:23 AM
#19
Drifting
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there is no perfect tutorial and there are differences in the years of the C5. I think it's great that people DO post their experiences and share the information with the Forum.
We all started from somewhere and I think by sharing, we are all much better (or hope to be).
We all started from somewhere and I think by sharing, we are all much better (or hope to be).
