I'm confused... wouldn't these shift points apply to 3.42's w/ SY3500 as well?

here is what I sent:

1-2 38
2-3 73
3-4 119

2-1 33
3-2 69
4-3 115

RPM
1-2 6000
2-3 5900
3-4 5900




[Modified by KRK, 4:15 PM 5/19/2004]

I had the following done to my A4:
Removed TMS, quickened shift times, increased line pressure from 83psi to 86psi

I believe that the above items are SAFE to do and actually can increase the life of the transmission.

What are the WOT shift points (in rpm) on a completely stock car?

Right now I drive around the city in 3rd so it will stay out of 4th.

Right now I drive around the city in 3rd so it will stay out of 4th.
Why is it you do that? Is you engine heavily modified?

IMO, cruising in 3rd at part throttle wastes gas big time and just wears out the engine sooner. Same thing for a manual. Even a Z06 pulls well from around 1000 in 6th with no harm to the engine.

You may want to shave a few mph off each shift point and adjust the rpm values down a few 100 also. That should account for the TC slippage.

Interested in this, too. I've got the stock engine and A4 but with 3.42 gears and a 2800 TC. Any shift point mph/rpm suggestions for us "Street Warrior" types?

I guess removing TMS and increasing line pressure to ~86 psi should be done as well. Any additional suggestions about this?

Stroker, your sig doesn't say but it sounds like you drive a manual.

You might reread my post. " My '97 will stay in 4th lockup for 40-50 mph passing if I just "crowd" the accelerator or push it to just before it wants to unlock the TC (first step) or downshift (second step)." Nope, not an M6.

In an A4 when driving in and around the city, your car will slip easily into 4th gear (very good for fuel economy). However, when you need power quickly, the A4 lags badly in downshifting to 2nd or 3rd gear (thank you, TMS :smash: ).

Funny, but if I mat it RAPIDLY, my 4-2 downshift take a couple tenths of a second. I believe accelerator application rate is figured into how fast it downshifts. Maybe not. Yours might be sick.

Anyway, driving in 3rd gives you the quick acceleration you need, when you need it, with almost no reduction in mpg. (I've tracked the mpg numbers on my drive to work several times but I also don't race from stoplight to stoplight.)

It must be my car. Cruising at 50 is about 3+ mpg difference 4 to 3.

As for hurting the engine or tranny, many threads of this subject of city driving in 3rd gear conclude that, in a car that will do 120 plus in 3rd gear (A4, remember) with a stock engine and tranny cooler, driving in the city at 50 or 60 in 3rd gear really isn't a problem. Makes sense, right?

No flame, but is doesn't make sense to me at all. FWIW, an A4 with a 3.15 gear (mine) will easily exceed 140+ at WOT in 3rd., A 2.73 will top 150. Engine life depends on total number of engine revs. Running in 3rd vs. 4th for cruise increased revs by about 42%. To me that many more revs wears the engine out faster. Maybe yours is special. I just ordered mine from my dealer the day they were released.

Just my thoughts.

Oh, BTW, this thread is about A4 shift points. (Yeah, I forgot too. :lol: :lol: )

I could swear you were asking about part throttle shifting.

I've noticed if I get on the gas lightly the car shifts around 2000 rpm, if I get on it a little more it shifts around 3500 rpm.". No C5 A4 full throttle upshifts at 3500 unless someone has boogered it up. My comments were specifically to your question. FWIW, there is a chance that some aftermarket shift programs which increase firmness of shift and can change WOT shift points also change part-throttle shifting; they may part-throttle upshift EARLIER and WOT upshift LATER. Curious.

Enjoy your car. Drive it in any gear you wish, and keep that tank full of premium. The oil-producing middle eastern guys need your green money. :)

Interested in this, too. I've got the stock engine and A4 but with 3.42 gears and a 2800 TC. Any shift point mph/rpm suggestions for us "Street Warrior" types?

I guess removing TMS and increasing line pressure to ~86 psi should be done as well. Any additional suggestions about this?

I would personally leave the line pressure alone on a stock tranny, but that's just my opinion. I ran my old tranny with increased line pressure also but over time I've decided against it. I can send you my shift tables if you want to see them. I assume you have LS1 Edit?