C5 rocking seat fix - it works!!!
06-23-2014, 10:50 PM
#21
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Hillsborough NC
Posts: 21,061
Received 745 Likes
on
429 Posts
NC Events Coordinator
Just finished the rocking seat fix
It wasn't the most fun I've had recently. I'd almost rather have a colonoscopy. 
I used Radioflyer's shims and the instructions at Lieblweb.com.
Not everything went according to plan:
1) Those damned electrical connectors are a pain, especially the little sliding clips that fasten the connectors to the metal retainer that attaches to the underside of the seat rail. I had one connector that just wouldn't disconnect. I couldn't suppress the plastic tab far enough to get it back through the slot. I think I eventually fatigued the plastic to the point that it enlarged enough to get it apart. It doesn't help that you're working in extremely close quarters.
2) Step 13 is a PITA. I couldn't get my quarter-inch drive ratchet, quarter-inch socket and Torx-40 bit between the seat and the seat rail. I ended up simply holding the T-40 into place with my finger and turning it a quarter turn at a time with a quarter-inch wrench.
3) I used the Lieblweb instructions verbatim for the first rail, but then realized that steps 14 and 15 are completely unnecessary. I simply left the 90-degree drive mechanism in place and proceeded as normal. There is no reason to remove the mechanisms or the drive shafts. It's easy to poke the Lead Screw out with the 90-degree drives and drive shafts in place. That saved a lot of time.
4) Three of the four rubber shims had completely turned to mush. There was nothing left except some black ooze. The fourth was fairly intact, but had been compressed to the point that there was significant play in the seat.
5) The Radioflyer shims were well-made and their width and thickness were perfect. The problem was that they weren't the right shape along the top. The inside of the track is slightly "house" shaped and the upper corners made contact with the angled part of the track. I took them all over to the grinder and took a little material off the corners so they would fit.
I hope that's the last time I have to do that.
I used Radioflyer's shims and the instructions at Lieblweb.com.
Not everything went according to plan:
1) Those damned electrical connectors are a pain, especially the little sliding clips that fasten the connectors to the metal retainer that attaches to the underside of the seat rail. I had one connector that just wouldn't disconnect. I couldn't suppress the plastic tab far enough to get it back through the slot. I think I eventually fatigued the plastic to the point that it enlarged enough to get it apart. It doesn't help that you're working in extremely close quarters.
2) Step 13 is a PITA. I couldn't get my quarter-inch drive ratchet, quarter-inch socket and Torx-40 bit between the seat and the seat rail. I ended up simply holding the T-40 into place with my finger and turning it a quarter turn at a time with a quarter-inch wrench.
3) I used the Lieblweb instructions verbatim for the first rail, but then realized that steps 14 and 15 are completely unnecessary. I simply left the 90-degree drive mechanism in place and proceeded as normal. There is no reason to remove the mechanisms or the drive shafts. It's easy to poke the Lead Screw out with the 90-degree drives and drive shafts in place. That saved a lot of time.
4) Three of the four rubber shims had completely turned to mush. There was nothing left except some black ooze. The fourth was fairly intact, but had been compressed to the point that there was significant play in the seat.
5) The Radioflyer shims were well-made and their width and thickness were perfect. The problem was that they weren't the right shape along the top. The inside of the track is slightly "house" shaped and the upper corners made contact with the angled part of the track. I took them all over to the grinder and took a little material off the corners so they would fit.
I hope that's the last time I have to do that.
07-30-2015, 01:22 PM
#22
Intermediate
Well my experience was a little different. I bought my kit from gmseatrepair.com and it came with the torx 40 tool to do the job along with 4 pages worth of instructions with colored pictures. The black shims needed to be sanded a little bit and then fit perfectly. Taking the seat out was the hardest part. Once it was out you only need to remove 3 bolts and then the whole assembly comes out. Clean it up fit the shims and put it back together. It was that easy and now I have no seat movement what so ever!
The following users liked this post:
thunder1951 (12-26-2016)
