gpflepsen

Folks have bantered about the need and purpose of the front air dams on the C5. Some have removed them with no ill effects and nobody has created a problem directly caused by the dam's removal.

The C5 has an active cooling system, the fans. As the car ranges through it's normal operating temperatures, the fans will cycle between off, low and high speed. The car has no need for movement through the air for cooling.

The main reason for the front air dam is for aerodynamics. An added benefit is the ability to direct air to the radiator. They are not necessary though.

So if your car is lowered and the scraping is bothersome to you, go ahead and cut them down or remove them altogether. You may notice elevated coolant temperatures, but nothing more than when driving in stop and go traffic. The cooling fans may cycle more but no harm will be done due to the engine running hot.

MiamiDave

I agree with you partially...

My fans never come on when I'm above 30 mph, due to the air being pushed upwards by the hard flap and into the radiator. Proof is watching your temp gauge creep up below 30, or creep down when above it (prior to the 220 degree fans starting)

The flexible rubber air dam on the side is for aerodynamics, which can be cut if you go lower with no ill effect.

Corvette SSX

I guess I'm misssing something from owner's manual quote. I didn't read where it said that it wasn't needed for cooling purposes. I still maintain that it is. Even if it's good for 10 or 20 degrees, that better than running hotter.

gpflepsen

Right, it says they are for aerodynamic purposes. The air dams are not essential for cooling purposes.

I'm not saying I'd take mine off. If they are gone one doesn't need to worry about harming the engine. I've read many post in the past where people say harm will be done it they are off, which just isn't true. Are they beneficial to cooling? Yes. Is it imperative that they be on? NO. That's all.

Corvette SSX

:cheers:

vetterdstr

I think that the center air dam is on the car to direct the air over the radiator for cooling while driving down the road. Yes the fans will come on as needed but they are not designed to run full or close to full time to keep the car cool.

I think this may be a hot topic in the next few days... I hope you are wearing your flame suit... ;)

vetterdstr :cheers:

gpflepsen

Here is all I could find on the front air dam WRT cooling from GM's Service Publications:

There you have it :) It doesn't include deflector with the baffle and seal warning ;)

:cheers:

FunDriver

That seems pretty reasonable. It's also reasonable to assume that GM wouldn't put all kinds of technical info into an Owerner's Manual when not everyone is technically savvy...let alone the fact that it would then become a massive Owner's Manual.

Racer

I am not sure how the temps are if you take the air dam off completely, but I know from experience that cutting the air dam 1 1/2" did nothing what so ever to my engine temps.
As for preventing lift. I know Matt G and a bunch of guys have removed theirs completely and have hit some very high speeds with out any problems. Personally, I have hit 175MPH in mine and the car felt great. Like a walk in the park. :D :cheers:

gpflepsen

With regard to high speed stability and not having the front air dams on, I wouldn't trust that they wouldn't come in handy.

Doing straight line blast up to 170ish is far different from trying to put the car into .6-.8g turns at those speeds. Every bit of downforce on the car is needed and I'd be very hesitant to push the envelope without it.

Matt, have you taken good turns at those elevated speeds?

SpinMonster

I have....177. I have no problem with people stating their opinion. I just hate it when people try to force their's as fact.


[Modified by SpinMonster, 12:26 AM 7/6/2003]

SpinMonster

Isn't that the same manual that says the spark plugs are good for 100k miles?

Z06_Shame

C'mon, the engineers put that airdam on for absolutely no purpose! :reddevil


[Modified by Z06_Shame, 1:20 AM 7/6/2003]

TIKTGTR

I use mine to sweep the bottom of our driveway every morning :rofl:

Racer

Well Manny, that is all good on paper but as stated by many members including myself. I drove my car 11,000 KMS last year to cruise-in 3 and at a very high speeds at times. I always watched all my gauges, my cooling was always normal, never ran hotter than before I cut it. You can believe what you want, I will believe what I saw and experienced. :cheers:

Bill Dearborn

Until I put DRM radiator in I would hit 230 degrees coolant temp on the track. This was with speeds in excess of 140 and no less than 65 for periods of 20 to 30 minutes. The fan alone doesn't move enough air through the radiator to keep the engine cool when running WOT or near WOT for extended periods.
Bill

Richin Chicago

I'm sorry but the panels and smooth areas under the C5 look a whole bunch like a big airplane wing. I'd rather have the air dam to break up at that air in such a rush to get out the back. Also shoving a bunch of the air into the radiator isn't a bad deal either.

bowtiebandit

Straight from the Service Manual...

Engine Overheating
Step
Action
Yes
No

1
Inspect for a missing or damaged radiator upper or lower baffle and/or radiator air deflector.

Is the baffle and/or deflector missing or damaged?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 2

2
Inspect for a loss of coolant.

Is there a loss of coolant?
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 4

3
Fill the system to the specified level. Refer to Loss of Coolant .

Does the engine overheat?
Go to Step 4
System OK

4
Inspect for low coolant protection.

Is the coolant to the correct concentration?
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 8

5
Inspect for a loss of cooling system pressure.

Is there a loss of system pressure?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 6

6
Inspect for a faulty engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. Refer to DTC P0117 , DTC P0118 , or DTC P0125 in Engine Controls - 5.7L.

Is the sensor operating properly?
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 8

7
Inspect for a cracked coolant surge tank or a leaking hose.

Is the coolant surge tank cracked or is the hose leaking?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 13

8
Repair or install new parts as necessary, then retest.

Does the engine overheat?
Go to Step 9
System OK

9
Inspect for incorrect drive belt tension.

Is the belt tension correct?
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 8

10
Remove the water pump. Refer to Water Pump Replacement .
Inspect for a damaged water pump driveshaft.
Is the water pump driveshaft damaged or is the seal leaking?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 11

11
Inspect for obstructed radiator air flow or bent radiator fins.

Is the radiator air flow obstructed?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 12

12
Inspect for blocked cooling system passages.

Are the cooling system passages blocked?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 13

13
Inspect for inoperative cooling fans. Refer to Cooling Fan Inoperative .

Are the cooling fans and the motors operating correctly?
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 8

14
Inspect the thermostat. Refer to Thermostat Diagnosis .

Is the thermostat stuck in the closed position?
Go to Step 15
Go to Step 16

15
Replace the thermostat. Refer to Thermostat Replacement .

Does the engine overheat?
Go to Step 16
System OK

16
Inspect the radiator cooling capacity.

Is the proper sized radiator being used on the vehicle?
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 17

17
Consult the current parts catalog and replace the radiator. Refer to Radiator Replacement .

Is the repair complete?
System OK
--



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

aaaaa

Would just like to point out one thing-"Your vehicle is equipped with a front air dam which has minimal ground clearance for aerodynamics. For this reason the air dam is spring loaded and will retract with road contact." This statment does not say that the air dam is for aerodynamics, it says that the minimal clearence is for aerodynamics.
My 0.02

:seeya

lotzahp

This pretty much confirms what I have experienced.

I removed my outer wings years ago because they were all torn up from scraping. I left the center one alone.

I have suffered no ill cooling effects.

Can't make any judgements on "sustained high speed" stability effects.