Pooter

I have no access to a lift. Don't want to scratch it up with a floor jack, thats if I can even fit one under it. Any suggestions? :seeya

see5

Drive it up on a 2x4" or 2x6" so you can get a jack under the jacking points then jack it up with a hockey puck on the jack saddle. You can then use jack stands under the suspension mounting points.

cmeflyby

you can use Rhino ramps. they are long enough to miss the body. you will crush the rubber skirts pretty badly but that's no big deal. if you want to avoid even the rubber just put a 2x12x12 board in front of the ramp.
for jacking, the best thing i've found is the aluminum racing type jacks. like the one available from Harbor Freight. they have a 3.5" min cradle height and the cradle is rubber lined. that should get under all but the extremely lowered cars. my car is lowered about 1" and i can still get under the crossmembers.

dmcantrell

I built some ramps using a 2x10x10, I made three cuts with a circular saw at 45 deg angles (just to make them more 'ramp-like'). I cut the 10' board into two 18" pieces, and two 42" pieces. Then I screwed the shorter pieces on top of the longer pieces. This will lift the car about 4" or so, and the longer pieces are long enough to clear the rubber front skirt.

Then I can roll my floor jack underneath it, using some wood scraps to protext the aluminum (or whatever that is) cross members.

The board was $8 at Home Depot.

--dc.

CRAIGVETTE

Rhino Ramps--you can get them at Wal-Mart. I think they even have a picture of a C5 on them. I go up slow and I don't even scrap, but my car is not lowered. You can then use a jack to raise up the rear.

WALLstAL

:iagree:

Dave68

Make sure you get the 12,000-lb Rhino Ramps; they are wider than the 6 or 8000-lb versions. Also, you should protect your aluminum cross-member before lifting the rear. The saddle on hydraulic floor jacks is made of steel and will damage the CM. I made a plastic disc that fits in the jack cradle and is taller than the cradle sides. I also made some wooden "caps" for my jack stands for the same reason.

Oldvetter

I actually use 4 Rhino ramps. Drive up on front and jack up rear to place on another set. It keeps car level for trans and diff fluid checks. I jack up rear to drain all oil (about 4 ounces stay in sump if you don't).

I also use aluminum jack pads, I don't like flexing of plastic ones.

I place 10 pound weight on floor jack to jack up rear (afterjacking one side up slightly to get rear floor jack under suspension).

IMQUIK

Hit the auto jack button! :lol: :lol: :lol:

78Vette-SA

I cheat - Kwiklift.

nevrenuf

I've done virtually any type of work you can do on a C5 on Jackstands, including full drivetrain swaps, motors, trans, diffs, clutches, brakes, cat backs, etc... using nothing but Rhino Ramps (about $30), and four jackstands (under $50)..

Drive on the Rhino's.. then jack up the rear. Jackstands on the rear, then jack up the front, jackstands on the front..

C5 ends up about 18" up in the air all the way around. Takes about 10 minutes to do the whole deal.. and you can accomplish anything you want from there.. including a heck of a car wash!!!!!!!!!!

Mike Mercury

Go Speed Racer !!

I made a set of ramps for my C5; read about it here:
mikemercury.home.att.net/ramp.htm


.


[Modified by Mike Mercury, 7:46 PM 6/7/2003]

rbeckham

:iagree: My car is lowered to the max. I do not need ramps to raise the rear on the cross member with a low floor jack (I use a big one in the garage, and a Harbor Freight Special at the track). For the front, since you need to get so far under it to get to the cross member, $8-9 of 2x10 cut into four pieces and screwed or nailed together raises the car over 3" and works fine. I throw these little ramps into the back of my tow vehicle and haul them to the track; I drive the front wheels onto the ramps, and that's all you need to reach all the way under the front with the Harbor Freight jack.

Vetteman Jack

Rhino Ramps work well. For the rear, I use a standard floor jack with a 1/4 inch thick metal plate (8"x8") to lift.

Pooter

Thanks everyone. Although the "autojack button" sounds cool, I think I'' go with the auto hover instead. :rolleyes:

Wadoka

"Roads...? Where we're going, we don't need...roads."

Autobots, transform and ROLL OUT!

John Shiels

:cool: :cool: :thumbs: :thumbs:

KAH_BigRedCorvette

Pooter,

As the others said, I use gray colored Rhino ramps (gray ones are wider than the yellow ones I think by memory).

Drive carefully onto the ramps and don't overshoot the ends, as the wheel stop isn't that pronounced. Don't laugh, but I duct taped 2"x4" blocks of wood at the very front of my Rhino ramps to keep me from overshooting. When I hit the wood, I know it's time to stop.

After driving onto the ramps, shut down and put the tranny into 1st gear (or park if auto).

I then put wheel chocks behind the rear wheels for peace of mind. I don't like the idea of dying under my Vette. I bought wheel chocks at the same time I bought my ramps--peace of mind.

Don't forget to remove the wheel chocks when backing off the ramps.

Apologize for being so basic, but I figure it never hurts to remember the fundamentals.

Regards,

Karl

Beer:30

I would recomend spending a bit more on the jack stands...but that is just me.

I have purchased some of the finest equipment to lift my baby.
It costs more but how much is the cost of your vette falling?
Could cost your life. This was one area I was not willing to cut corners.

I have found what I feel is the finest jack products produced for a reasonable price.

I use the DK20Q http://www.shopquip.com/acdk20q.htm
and four of the 1500N stands.

I got mine here. http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html

Stands here http://www.asedeals.com/jack_stands.html

They have the best prices and quick shipping.

Here is how high I can get.



[Modified by fdupny, 2:51 PM 6/9/2003]

Richin Chicago

2 x 12s and some anti slip fabric from Home Depot.

http://member.newsguy.com/~rmoburg/j.../C5%20Ramp.jpg