99C5Richie

I just got my lowering bolts and Bilstein sport shocks today (thanks WCC).:yesnod: I've read a lot of posts about leaving two threads when keeping the stock bolts and cutting the bushings... My question is... do I also leave 2 threads showing when using the long lowering bolts? :confused: If so, how low will that drop the car? I'd like the car to be pretty much leveled or just 1/4" higher than the front.

And a another question, will I be ok if I lower each corner as I swap out the shocks? :confused:

Now as I think about it more... maybe I should just install the Bilstein shocks first and let it settle before lowering... does that make any sense???


Thanks for any pointers. :thumbs:


[Modified by 99C5Richie, 7:42 PM 2/7/2003]

Y2Kvert4me

You can really slam the rear down with the added adjustment of the longer bolts. I'd suggest leaving 8-10 threads exposed as starting point, and go from there. You also do not cut the bushings with the longer bolts.
If you just adjusted the fronts down all the way without cutting bushings, this should get you about level front and rear.

(this is assuming the WCC bolts are the same length as A+A's, which is what I have).

:cheers:

99C5Richie

Thanks for the tip... The WCC bolts came with poly bushings, so I'll have to gauge the difference between the two by putting them side by side... and just so I'm clear, the more threads exposed, the higher the level gets... right? :confused:

Y2Kvert4me

Yes, the more you loosen the nuts, the lower it will be.

John Shiels

You do not want to change the rake of the car it changes the aerodynamics. The car was made with the back higher to create suction below it at high speeds. Keeping the front higher will pack air under and delete the vacum at the rear. It makes it unstable at higher speeds. If you don't go real fast don't worry. I leveled my GS and at 163 it lost some stability. Lower the front 1" lower the back 1". Good luck. If you lower it to much it will hurt the handling because the suspension will not work properly. :seeya I recommend two threads on the stock bolts and don't cut the bushings.

Racer

But since your probably not racing it and you just are doing this to help the looks, I agree with about 8 threads on the longer bolts. After you do that drive it around for a couple of days, check your height and adjust accordingly, once you are satisfied take it in for a wheel alignment. If I remember correctly mine has 8 threads showing. I have had it up to 170 MPH and it handles like it is on rails. ( I couldn't say that with the stock shocks) The Bilsteins really help it. :thumbs: :cheers:

99C5Richie

Thanks Racer :thumbs: You're right... I don't race my C5 at all. When you used the 8 threads at the back, did you cut any bushings off the front?

Thanks :cheers:

Racer

Yes, on the front I cut 2/3 of the bushing off. The back bushings are left intact. :cheers:

99C5Richie

Well... It took a while, but finally got the Bilstein's installed and lowered with WCC bolts. :hurray: The toughest part was getting those stock shocks out... it realled kicked my behind... :eek: Anyway, I only lowered the fronts as much as they'll go without cutting the bushings and left about 10 threads showing in the rear on the longer bolts...

I just took it out for 5 mile spin to test it out and it made a world of difference... even on my run-craps. :cool: I know it still needs to settle but at first glance, it looks like the rear is lower than the front. After taking a measuring tape to it, my front is still lower... but only by "1cm", does anyone think that's not right...??? Should I jack up the rears a few threads?

Racer

No, you should lower the front more! :D :D :smash: :smash: :smash:

wottogo

I lowered mine using only the stock adjustment.
And did we have fun getting on a drive up ramp to do the exhaust today.
Even with extra long ramps the rocker panel got it, front to back, under the door.
Can't see it, just feel it when you wash under there.
I'm thinking that's low enough for the real world. :lol:

99C5Richie

Hey Racer,

I'm planning on lowering the front more by cutting the bushings. I'm now running 18" w\Pilot Sports (275/35/18) in front and was wondering if I'll have problems with rubbing if I cut 2/3 off the bushing?

Rich

JLMonaco

I lowered mine without cutting the bushings at first, and didn't really think it did anything ( i.e., 1 cm drop ). Cut the bushings....you can always increase the height after you cut them...but it does give you a lot of room to drop...I'll have a picture of my car on here soon....so unfortunately you can't see just yet....but check out these instructuions... https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=90&TopicID=1

Flyin'Brian

You should be ok. I'm running 265/35/18s on 18x9.5 wheels with all the bushings cut off the front. No rubbing here.
Also if you flip over the top rear shock mounting plate it gives you 1/2" more shock travel , then trim your bump stop bushings 1/2" you will have gained 1" of travel you lost from lowering...works great :yesnod:


[Modified by Flyin'Brian, 9:06 AM 2/20/2003]

99C5Richie

Thanks Guys... got the job done by cutting 2/3 off the bushing! :thumbs:

Wasn't easy though. :rolleyes: The lower a-arm wouldn't drop enough... so I had to drop the upper a-arm and tie-rod... After taking it for a spin, the profile looks better... I've gotten back some rake. I'll let it settle for a couple days before getting the alignment... and boy do I ever need one now... by dropping the tie-rod, I managed to off-center the steering wheel. :crazy:

Rich

Racer

Pics...we want pics!!! :D :cheers:

99C5Richie

Here are some pics... the first one is before lowering and rest are after lowering... My final setup before getting it aligned was... cut 2/3 off the front bushing and turned counter clockwise all the way... and WCC lowering bolts in rear... left side (drivers side) with 14 threads showing and right side 13 threads showing... the two sides are dead on even :hurray:








[Modified by 99C5Richie, 2:50 PM 2/22/2003]