Is this what front timing cover leak looks like ?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Is this what front timing cover leak looks like ?
Or is it road dirt from 70k miles driven . I just bought car and Removed my harmonic balancer and before I put new one on what do you think is leaking. I will put a new crankshaft seal before new balancer goes on. Car is stock 03 Z06 with 70k
#2
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St. Jude Donor '08
YES. Although mine was a LOT worse. I had oil from the front cover to the mufflers. What ever you have, That OEM seal is very hard and has most likely scored the dampener sealing surface. Get a better dampener and a new aftermarket seal.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So just new aftermarket gasket . I read install crank seal loose and let H/B push in place? Then tighten front cover seal?
Or install front cover seal
then crank seal
thb H/B
Or install front cover seal
then crank seal
thb H/B
#4
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they make tools to center the cover around the crank, doing that job twice sucks if you don't get it perfect trying to use the balancer to center it... I have the tools for the front and rear covers I could sell since I don't plan on ever using them again
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08
The term "GASKET" and "SEAL" are not the same thing. The front cover gasket is a thin paper/fiber style gasket, The front cover seal is a Metal case lip seal that gets pressed/hammered into the damper / crank snout opening in the front cover. You can change the front cover seal without taking the front cover off but, I always take it off to inspect the cam gears and chain. . When I get this far into engine replacement, I always remove the front cover, replace the OEM Timing Chain and most times the oil pump with a higher volume oil pump. But, that's just ME.
NO! You must PRY out the old seal and press or hammer in the new damper seal for a proper fit and correct sealing. How would you like it if it POPPED back out after you put everything back together? They make a seal driving tool to properly press it in but I normally find a large socket that fits on the seal lip and then drive it into the cover opening.
Neutron 82 is correct. If you remove the front cover, you will need that special centering tool to properly align the seal to the dampener so that it isnt offset on the dampener sealing surface.
NO! You must PRY out the old seal and press or hammer in the new damper seal for a proper fit and correct sealing. How would you like it if it POPPED back out after you put everything back together? They make a seal driving tool to properly press it in but I normally find a large socket that fits on the seal lip and then drive it into the cover opening.
Neutron 82 is correct. If you remove the front cover, you will need that special centering tool to properly align the seal to the dampener so that it isnt offset on the dampener sealing surface.
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Markolc1981 (12-22-2023)
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Could it be leaky crank seal that spit and wicked everything up? Or who cares, when your in there replace timing front gasket and look at timing chain as car has 70k miles?
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Bill Curlee (12-22-2023)
#7
Melting Slicks
I did my balancer at about the same mileage. It's from the seal. Gaskets were dry and no oil drops. It's just a little oil mist and some road dirt. 18 months and about 35k miles later it's still dry. If you do remove the timing cover make sure you align it properly or you will have a real leak on your hands. You make the call.
#8
Racer
Not speaking from experience myself, but I have heard from others with experience that you can skip the alignment tool by using this shortcut. Leave the timing cover bolts a little loose so that there's some play, press on the balancer, and the balancer will align the timing cover for you. Then just torque down the cover bolts as normal. Visualizing this, it seems like it should work just fine in a pinch. On the other hand, the alignment tool for LS engines I've seen for less than $20 doing a quick google search.
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#9
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St. Jude Donor '08
Not speaking from experience myself, but I have heard from others with experience that you can skip the alignment tool by using this shortcut. Leave the timing cover bolts a little loose so that there's some play, press on the balancer, and the balancer will align the timing cover for you. Then just torque down the cover bolts as normal. Visualizing this, it seems like it should work just fine in a pinch. On the other hand, the alignment tool for LS engines I've seen for less than $20 doing a quick google search.
NOTE & TECH TIP- If you heat up the damper HUB with a torch or heat gun to approx 200 deg, It will significantly aid in ease of removal and reinstallation.
#10
Pro
If you take the front cover off to change the seal and gasket. Some good "while you are there items"...
The summit stuff is made in the USA and seems like good quality when I did mine
LS2 Chain:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-143012
Stock LS1 on left, Summit LS2 on the right
Summit standard volume and pressure oil pump has the same M295 casting number on it as the Melling:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-121170
Optional Chain dampener if the block has the threaded holes:
https://briantooleyracing.com/rde-ti...rde-62188.html
Some great direction on removing and replacing things on the front of the LS engines here (Should be a sticky IMO):
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
The summit stuff is made in the USA and seems like good quality when I did mine
LS2 Chain:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-143012
Stock LS1 on left, Summit LS2 on the right
Summit standard volume and pressure oil pump has the same M295 casting number on it as the Melling:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-121170
Optional Chain dampener if the block has the threaded holes:
https://briantooleyracing.com/rde-ti...rde-62188.html
Some great direction on removing and replacing things on the front of the LS engines here (Should be a sticky IMO):
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
Last edited by Prop Joe; 12-23-2023 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Added RDE item
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