JBN

Can anyone recommend a proper ball joint separator tool for the C5 front and rear knuckles? The standard OEM version is too stubby to reach over the top of the ball joint stud in order to push it out of the knuckle, so I end up tapping on the sides of the knuckle base and rapping on the top of the castle nut. This works, but not an elegant solution.

Thanks in advance

RonSSNova

I did the same. They don’t wedge into the alum like they do with steel spindles.
A little heat works too

v8srfun

Just smack the knuckle with a 3 lb sledge the ball joint will pop loose in no time. Obviously loose the nut first

Supercharged111

And leave the nut on in case you miss! I don't use special tools on any car to get a ball joint or tie rod end out, just my 4# sledge. The heat does help and the aluminum takes it faster.

smitty2919

Harbor Freight tool Worked for me. I needed to open up the fork by grinding a little material off to get around the BJ.
​​​​​​https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html

Removal was uneventful.

walleyejack

Pickle fork

93Polo

smitty2919

Can damage aluminum arms and the BJ boots. A proper BJ separator tool is the better option.

hungryhippo

I have the kent moore tool, but its easier to just use a hammer

heggsc5

3-4 lb sledge is totally fine on the side of the knuckle. I would try to refrain from hitting the top of the bolt unless you don't plan on reusing those BJ's, but I've also done it myself with no issues. All 8 of mine fell right out with 1-2 side taps on the C5, easy and free.

93Polo

All 3 methods can work, the seperator tool is the lowest risk. Sometimes they can be stubborn others easy work.

If using a hammer always strike the pad on the knuckle only. Unless as stated aboved they are not seperating and you plan on replacing ball joints, then you might try hitting the top of the ball joint..

I know it is common to strike the pad on the knuckle but I don't like the idea of sending the shock through the wheel bearing. However, I am also a bit more track minded than most. Again it is done all the time and the pad is there for a reason but the balljoint tool isn't very expensive. I also hate swinging a hammer inside the restrictions of the wheel well.