keanezheng

Yesterday I went to my friend's shop using his lift to service the transmission. I have a 2001 C5 with 4 spd auto. Got the GM transmission service kit and 1 jug of Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Dropped the pan, emptied the old fluid, changed the filter and its seal (what a PITA, and had a bit of scratch on the bore using a thin screwdriver), took my time to clean the pan nice and shiny, put on the new gasket, then torqued the pan back on to 144 inch-lb, so far so good.

When I started refilling the fluid, I noticed I couldn't get much fluid back in. I used the Harbor Freight Fluid Transfer Pump. I only put in less than 2 qts in and it started to drip outside (the fluid level on the bottle says 2 qt left and the container was 4 when full, and I wasted some when I tried to test the pump).

So the way I refilled it was: when the car was cold, I started pumping and it started dripping. Then I started the car and warmed it, I went through the gears and temp was hitting 100F. The car was still running, and I tried to put more, but it wouldn't take much and started dripping again. So I gave up and put the plug on. On the way home I noticed the tranny temperature was reaching 207 after 25 miles of highway driving. It seems a bit high, I think folks were talking about 160-180 during normal driving conditions. The shifting seems good at slow speeds but I noticed some jerking after some harder acceleration on the highway. I am not sure if it was just me suddenly paying attention now or it was already doing that before.

Was the pump not doing a good job? Does dropping the pan always require a 4 qt replacement? I am thinking of checking the level again at home on 4 jackstands and hopefully, I can get more fluid in. Any tips on getting the level right?

Bluefire

Per the Service Manual...
You can only properly check the level of the fluid when the fluid temp is between 85 deg. F - 122 deg. F

keanezheng

Thanks I did that again when it was running around 90-100, I put in 2-2.5 more quarts, wow, almost damaged the car!
Only drove 25 miles home with low fluid, hopefully it should be ok.

Supercharged111

I'm curious what the fill hole looks like on these cars? Mine's a stick and I'm used to a dipstick and tube on my autos. Is it a hole in the bottom of the pan that you fill through until it pukes? I saw that on a Ford before.

Bluefire

There is a fill hole (bolt) on the top left side of the transaxle. There is a drain hole (bolt) on the bottom right side of the transaxle.
Fill the top hole until it pukes.

Supercharged111

I gave it a Google and it looks like the fill hole is in the pan itself?

jim993

There is a SPECIFIC procedure to check fluid level in the A4. Done wrong, the transmission will be low on fluid.

Raise the car on jack stands or lift.

With your foot holding the brakes, engine running, cycle the transmission through all the gears, then back to PARK.

Go back underneath and remove the drain/ fill plug leaving the engine running.

With the engine still running and the transmission in PARK, monitor transmission temperature on the DIC. When transmission temperature rises to 122 F, check fluid level to be at the bottom of the fill/ level check hole. If not add as necessary. Put the plug in the fill/ Check level hole.
Transmission fluid fluid may dribble out as the transmission temperature rises to 122 F

DO NOT shut the engine down until the plug is in the fill/ check level hole. If you do, HOT fluid will gush out and the transmission will be low on fluid.

You need a small hand pump to pump the fluid into the fill/ check level hole.

keanezheng

You are right, I checked twice and added fluid when engine was running and tranny < 122F, making sure it visibly drip out. It’s amazing to see that it expands so significantly when temp was over 122F and yes it will gush out if you shut the engine without the plug. I observed both.

gotta miss the dipstick…

grinder11

I'm pretty sure you'll be OK. I had a shop check mine after I added a trans oil cooler, thinking the level would be maybe a quart low now that the cooler had to be filled, along with the extra lines. They said they did, and it was OK. They lied!! I put about 80 miles on it driving it home from the shop. I got to thinking the car had about 100,000 miles on it then, all with the original filter and fluid. So I decided to drain it, and change fluid and filter. WOW!!! Damn good thing I did this, because when I got under it, and removed the plug, no fluid came out!! Nothing, and this was with the engine not running!! Car drove home fine, no problems with the shifting or temp, nothing. So, I don't know how low it got, but it's still in the car, and working good@138,000+ miles....

Mc556

The A4 is a horrible design in regards to the fluid fill
a simple access port through the trunk and a dipstick would not have been a big deal.
It’s a two person job and sucks. I’ve always taken pride in doing my own work on all my cars. This is one of the few deals I find easier to get serviced. A small electrical or pneumatic transfer pump would is the way to go if you insist on Diy

SilverBulletVette

Yes, this job does suck. The problem is, the 4l60e was not designed to go in the back of a car. GM should have really designed an all new trans to use in the rear and hold up to the power. But built with a shift kit and an upgraded gear and converter the autos suck a little less.

grinder11

Beware of installing shift kits in an otherwise stock 4L60E!! I've been told not to do it by some people, including my tuner. The last 80,000 miles (of 138,500 miles total) I've had 2 different 427 engines yanking on it, and whatever my tuner guy did, it was right, because I've never had a problem. The only non-stock part in it is a 3,200 stall Yank. It's gonna go, sooner than later. But alls well, right now, this minute.......

SilverBulletVette

I had mine rebuilt at the time the shift kit was installed. He did some upgraded clutches and other stuff. I let him work his magic and its been holding up good for about 8000 miles. Stand alone trans cooler. I no prep race it with drag radials too. Good times.