Typical timeframe to replace harmonic balancer
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Typical timeframe to replace harmonic balancer
Hey Guys,
I was wondering, as part of a preventative maintenance, after how many miles would you guys replace the harmonic balancer? My 2002 recently passed 100k miles. Just wondering if I need to consider this? My understanding is if there is a problem with it, it can lead to bigger problems.
Thanks!
I was wondering, as part of a preventative maintenance, after how many miles would you guys replace the harmonic balancer? My 2002 recently passed 100k miles. Just wondering if I need to consider this? My understanding is if there is a problem with it, it can lead to bigger problems.
Thanks!
#2
I don't think it's got much to do with miles or years. It's when the rubber inside the balancer lets go it's time. I have a 1998 with 150K miles and it went two years ago in December.
It was fine right up til it walked backwards and ran into the engine.
I had just put new belts, hoses, pulleys and tensioners, water pump and radiator in late September - October.
It was fine in September but by December it was toast and had to be replaced between Christmas and New Years.
Did the front seal at the same time. Had a devil of a time getting the steering rack purged of air bubbles.
I would say that at 100K miles on a 2002 you should think about it.
Like in sailing, people ask "when should I shorten sail?". You should shorten sail when the thought occurs to you.
It was fine right up til it walked backwards and ran into the engine.
I had just put new belts, hoses, pulleys and tensioners, water pump and radiator in late September - October.
It was fine in September but by December it was toast and had to be replaced between Christmas and New Years.
Did the front seal at the same time. Had a devil of a time getting the steering rack purged of air bubbles.
I would say that at 100K miles on a 2002 you should think about it.
Like in sailing, people ask "when should I shorten sail?". You should shorten sail when the thought occurs to you.
#3
Melting Slicks
Two types of HB problems, one is the prior mentioned separation and the other is the HB walking or moving forward. The prior is often from high mileage (100,000-200,000 mile) and the other from high rpms for extended periods of time (W2W,autocross, HPDE,drags, etc). They both require replacement, aftermarket is better choice and pinning the crank is recommended. When mine went, 30K, it was problem #2
#4
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St. Jude Donor '05
If you have the funds and time get er done. One less thing to worry about
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leadfoot4 (10-21-2022)
#5
Drifting
Hey Guys,
I was wondering, as part of a preventative maintenance, after how many miles would you guys replace the harmonic balancer? My 2002 recently passed 100k miles. Just wondering if I need to consider this? My understanding is if there is a problem with it, it can lead to bigger problems.
Thanks!
I was wondering, as part of a preventative maintenance, after how many miles would you guys replace the harmonic balancer? My 2002 recently passed 100k miles. Just wondering if I need to consider this? My understanding is if there is a problem with it, it can lead to bigger problems.
Thanks!
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#9
Mine was OK in the trash!!! Junk under 50,000 miles. Have had an ASP 25% UD balancer on since 2005, and MY-T glad I did......
#10
Safety Car
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Most don’t realize it’s actually cam related!
If you wish to install a better cam, swap out the HB “while you’re in there..”
If your HB is showing signs of failure, swap out the cam “while you’re in there…”
If you wish to install a better cam, swap out the HB “while you’re in there..”
If your HB is showing signs of failure, swap out the cam “while you’re in there…”
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FOGeologist (10-24-2022)
#11
I finally thought it through and came up with a theory why these balancers seem to be a problem. In the past, up through the C4 at least the L98s, (I'm not intimately familiar with the LT1), the front pulley was always a separate part that bolted to the center part of the HB. Thus the outer ring of the HB only had to dampen the engine harmonics and that's it. Now, the outer ring of the HB has become the pulley, so it is subjected to not only the engine harmonics but also the torque and the harmonics of the whole accessory drive system. To me, no wonder they fail.
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vette4fl (10-22-2022)
#13
Melting Slicks
I finally thought it through and came up with a theory why these balancers seem to be a problem. In the past, up through the C4 at least the L98s, (I'm not intimately familiar with the LT1), the front pulley was always a separate part that bolted to the center part of the HB. Thus the outer ring of the HB only had to dampen the engine harmonics and that's it. Now, the outer ring of the HB has become the pulley, so it is subjected to not only the engine harmonics but also the torque and the harmonics of the whole accessory drive system. To me, no wonder they fail.
#14
The camaro ls1 f bodies hold up real well i think but i did switch to a pb on my 98 z28 25% ud in 2011 around 130-140k miles.
Its about a 5hr job if auto you need to remove the starter and purchase one of those cheap flywheel locking tools for 12-15$ on amazon or ebay. Thats what i got worked great. Oreillys is the only place that has a 250ftlbs torque wrench to rent a tool get all your money back once returned 235 ftlbs with arp bolt.
I did mine with cam swap as the rubber was bad shape didnt walk off but didnt want to end up roadside stranded.
Remove the tie rod ends both rack bolts and ebcm bracket. and slide the rack out the passenger side not all the way partially and angled up to have access to the balancer. bolt. Use the flexplate flywheel locking tool and i used electric 1/2" impact removed bolt also autozones loan a tool balancer puller. Torqued new balancer with arp bolt to 235 ft lbs.
Its about a 5hr job if auto you need to remove the starter and purchase one of those cheap flywheel locking tools for 12-15$ on amazon or ebay. Thats what i got worked great. Oreillys is the only place that has a 250ftlbs torque wrench to rent a tool get all your money back once returned 235 ftlbs with arp bolt.
I did mine with cam swap as the rubber was bad shape didnt walk off but didnt want to end up roadside stranded.
Remove the tie rod ends both rack bolts and ebcm bracket. and slide the rack out the passenger side not all the way partially and angled up to have access to the balancer. bolt. Use the flexplate flywheel locking tool and i used electric 1/2" impact removed bolt also autozones loan a tool balancer puller. Torqued new balancer with arp bolt to 235 ft lbs.
#15
Hey Guys,
I was wondering, as part of a preventative maintenance, after how many miles would you guys replace the harmonic balancer? My 2002 recently passed 100k miles. Just wondering if I need to consider this? My understanding is if there is a problem with it, it can lead to bigger problems.
Thanks!
I was wondering, as part of a preventative maintenance, after how many miles would you guys replace the harmonic balancer? My 2002 recently passed 100k miles. Just wondering if I need to consider this? My understanding is if there is a problem with it, it can lead to bigger problems.
Thanks!
#16
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Great three part series on HB swap…
#17
Safety Car
I would just keep an eye on it. Replace only when it starts to fail. It usually gives you plenty of warning
#20
Drifting
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I had mine replaced at the Chevy Dealer this past April with 92k miles as a precaution.