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Local shop is trying to charge me 700 for labor to change some valve spring in a ls1 . That’s a little steep just to replace 16 valve . I just don’t have tools to do this . I’ve replace a over a dozen of dual valve spring on Honda dohc vtec engines so I’m aware of the procedure . Ives just never replace ls1 springs so I’m can’t determine if it’s resonable .
If you're familiar with the basic process, and have the tools necessary to do a Honda, then just buy an LS-specific spring compressor for about $30, read up a little about it, and do it yourself. That's the only unique tool you will need.
Yes, $700 seems excessive, given the ease of removal of the valve covers on the LS1. But I guess at today's labor rates that's probably considered in-line.
If you have any kind of power tools, then it literally takes 5 minutes to take off each rocker cover. 4 10mm bolts, one harness plug, and pulling the plug wires off the coils makes the coil go away. Then there are 4 8mm bolts in each rocker cover, and it practically falls off in your hands.
[QUOTE=vinco;1605726877]If you have any kind of power tools, then it literally takes 5 minutes to take off each rocker cover. 4 10mm bolts, one harness plug, and pulling the plug wires off the coils makes the coil go away. Then there are 4 8mm bolts in each rocker cover, and it practically falls off in your hands.[I’ve open the valve cover up to check if I have any broken springs . I’m talking about changing the springs out .
Too much in my opinion.I only paid $1k to have my cam,harmonic balancer,valve springs and trunnion upgrade installed.
one thing I never understand about other mechanic is when people bring in their car to get it work on they assume we have no choice . They also think we have no idea of how long it should take or what’s involved for the work . Every shop that work on Ls motors has tried to cheat me . I’m almost certain it shouldn’t take more than 3 hours to do both head and that’s with the tdc method . They’re charging over 8 hours to do both head . I’m laughing to myself when they give me the quote . Anyone in the Atlanta area feel like doing this . I’ll pay
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Given the average labor rate in Georgia $145.72 per hour so 700.00 is only 4.8hrs. It your going to do do it TDC method your going to have to move the P/S rack out of the way to get on the crank pulley bolt. I suggest you get a Chilton's or Mitchel or even All Data's labor guide and see what it says https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/s...-by-state-2021
Too much in my opinion.I only paid $1k to have my cam,harmonic balancer,valve springs and trunnion upgrade installed.
How long ago? I do agree with the $700 being too much. At $120/hour, 2 hours a side/4 total=about $500 including those irritating "shop supplies!" This assumes 15 minutes/spring, which should be more than enough. As stated, doesn't take that long to R&R the valve covers.
Given the average labor rate in Georgia $145.72 per hour so 700.00 is only 4.8hrs. It your going to do do it TDC method your going to have to move the P/S rack out of the way to get on the crank pulley bolt. I suggest you get a Chilton's or Mitchel or even All Data's labor guide and see what it says https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/s...-by-state-2021
You don’t have to do that, really. You can just bump the starter to get the valves in proper position to change each one. That’s a LOT of unnecessary labor to move the steering rack.
I did my LS6 springs earlier this year. If the LS1 is anything like the same, it was a very straightforward job and took about 5 hours taking things very steadily. I used a Trick Flow spring compressor and also used compressed air in the cylinder after bringing the cylinder to TDC (belt and suspenders).
You simply cannot come in here and say you have replaced dozens of Honda valve springs and then in the next breath say I can't change the springs on an LS motor. It just doesn't make any sense.
You don’t have to do that, really. You can just bump the starter to get the valves in proper position to change each one. That’s a LOT of unnecessary labor to move the steering rack.
You can also usually turn them over using the nut on the alternator. Turn the engine backwards if the belt slips.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Meta
You don’t have to do that, really. You can just bump the starter to get the valves in proper position to change each one. That’s a LOT of unnecessary labor to move the steering rack.
While that is true, flat rate hrs are not calculated that way. If a shop charges the the fastest way to do a job they would not be in business very long.
Given the average labor rate in Georgia $145.72 per hour so 700.00 is only 4.8hrs. It your going to do do it TDC method your going to have to move the P/S rack out of the way to get on the crank pulley bolt. I suggest you get a Chilton's or Mitchel or even All Data's labor guide and see what it says https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/s...-by-state-2021
what is the reason you would move the p/s?
i guess i could do it in 3 hours if i were in a competition. thats having thought everything through and having all tools ready etc. thats because i have just finished this job and can remember every detail. now, shops dont work like that. if $700 covers less than 5 hours i would pay them $150 extra to take their time and do the job properly.
(at least over here, its not the brightest and most motivated people working as mechanics. they call them "mechatroniks" now. it doesnt make any difference. the average shop doesnt open up an engine very often nowadays either.)
There are a bunch of how-videos on YouTube to familiarize yourself with the LS valve spring swap.
Below are directions so you can do two cylinders at a time, both being TDC. If you have compressed air, you’re good to go. If not get two 2’ pieces of 1/4” nylon rope and feed it into the cylinder just prior to TDC and that will ensure the valves are held in place. The following page has directions for reinstalling the rocker arms.
These tools shown below are good quality and affordable. I bought the spring compressor directly from the Bluegrass website, and the seal installer on Amazon.
i never used an air compressor but i figure it would add about an hour and a lot of nuisance to the job.
why would it be needed? why would stuffing rope in there be needed? if you dont want to mess with firing order for some reason take a piece of wire (coat hanger?) and check what the pistons are doing. side benefit: when putting on the locks you can push down the valve stem a bit and lock them in place. much easier to unscrew the spring compressor like that.
i never used an air compressor but i figure it would add about an hour and a lot of nuisance to the job.
why would it be needed? why would stuffing rope in there be needed? if you dont want to mess with firing order for some reason take a piece of wire (coat hanger?) and check what the pistons are doing. side benefit: when putting on the locks you can push down the valve stem a bit and lock them in place. much easier to unscrew the spring compressor like that.
When the valve seals are removed the valve will slide down a bit. So, the rope keeps them in place while you install the springs. It can be done without the rope, but it’s prevents the valve from touching the piston and makes it go a little easier.
Since TDC is not marked on the balancer, I use a piston stop to determine exact TDC then mark the balancer. From there it’s easy to mark 90° increments and do all the springs two cylinders at a time. For adjusting the rockers, they should be tightened from as exact a TDC as possible, but only one rocker per cylinder at a time, since the valve must be closed.
This is not the only method, as you pointed out you can just use a hanger. Still, the hanger only shows TDC but does not indicate which valves are closed for the purpose of rocker adjustment. I’m just methodical and stuck in my comfortable ways, and surely there are others.
i never used an air compressor but i figure it would add about an hour and a lot of nuisance to the job.
why would it be needed? why would stuffing rope in there be needed? if you dont want to mess with firing order for some reason take a piece of wire (coat hanger?) and check what the pistons are doing. side benefit: when putting on the locks you can push down the valve stem a bit and lock them in place. much easier to unscrew the spring compressor like that.
It was my first time doing this job and therefore I was “belt and suspenders” cautious and used the TDC and compressed air methods. Screwing the adapter into the spark plug hole is a major PIA but it worked. I’d only use the air connection next time if I could shorten the hose.
i found that the valve seals could be removed with a pair of pliers, and the installation of new ones was an easy push-on.
09-27-2022, 03:17 PM
Shop charges on valve spring swap on ls1
