pianoman90

Installed a mantic twin disc clutch and am having issues reinstalling the torque tube / trans / diff. I'm using a floor trans jack in the rear to lift it back up into the car.



First attempt we got pretty close, but would not go in the last 1" or so. We fought it a while before pulling it back out. Turns out the flywheel clutch plate wasn't perfectly aligned, the plastic tool wouldn't insert all of the way. So then I had to take the long tubes headers off, bellhousing off, and re-align the clutch discs. Confirmed everything and attempted the install a second time.

Second attempt was similar to the first, I got it about 1/2" - 1" away but would not go in at all. I had cleared all of the wiring looms, tube was level, but still nothing. It literally hits a wall.







I did replace the pilot bearing with a new GM one and pressed it in. It's almost like the input shaft won't insert into the pilot bearing, seems about the same width? I've cleared the looms up top, nothing binding that I can see. The rear was almost as high as it would go and I think the tube was pretty level.

Any suggestions? I've been looking through old threads too for more advice.

VETTRK

Remove the transmission.
puts too much tension up front

helga203

People have used a C Clamp to pull tube and bell house together. Be very careful.

93Polo

You can strip the threads in the bellhousing using the bolts attaching the torque tube and bellhousing to pull the 2 together.

A metal input shaft tool is a wise investment over the plastic ones that come with many kits. You may have to play with the angles between the 2 to get everything lined up. We have used a jack on the oil pan to gently and slowly change the angle of the motor. We pulled the cup off the floor jack allowing it to slide. A bottle jack could work too.

Rx7Rob

I c-clamped mine together. Have to be certain things are lined up. Don't squeeze too hard so nothing breaks.

Justin Raney

On the auto my torque tube stabbed perfect really light weight just slide it in and spun it to correct spot and pushed into the dowels nice and easy. Ive never messed with a manual on a c5 but yes i did install the auto trans after torque tube and install was easy by the way what lift posts is that and about how much do they cost?

On the auto the hub clamp similar to manual clutch splines is perfectly lined up so the tube will stab easy. I didn't replace the pilot bearing but should of i didnt even look at mine i looked to see if the rear seal or oil coming from behind the flexplate but didnt see anything. I hope for the best with auto since the pilot bearing has never spun that it would still new condition just 23 years old.

lionelhutz

It still surprises my how people want to screw around for hours trying to stab the whole assembly at once and then take the chance of damaging something by forcing it together with clamps or longer bolts. I've tried to align a C5 torque tube into a clutch 3 times. Once was the complete assembly and the next two were with just the torque tube. Guess which way the torque tube slid together right into in the clutch and bolted up within minutes without hardly any effort?

frodo84

Another vote for putting the torque tube on alone, then putting in the trans and diff. So much easier.

MetalMan2

I too struggled with this. The real issue is that as you're drawing the TT into the clutch/bellhousing, you're also trying to compress the slave cylinder and thus fighting its hydraulics. Supposedly you can crack open the bleeder screw on the slave (or hopefully you have a remote clutch bleeder and can crack that open!). And this should help you with drawing the TT into the bellhousing.

Otherwise I also agree that adding torque tube alone is easier, and this was the route I took.

VETTRK

Note taken

pianoman90

Thanks for all of the input and advice.

I've got a metal clutch alignment tool ordered and it should be here tomorrow, just to verify that the clutch plates aligned.

Question...when you remove the torque tube and attach it separately to the motor, how do you get the trans / diff back in there without hitting the rear brake lines? My brake lines are still attached to the car. With the trans shaft sticking out like 6", is there a way to angle it back in to the torque tube or does it have to go back in straight? If it can't be angled, I may have to disconnect the brake lines to make room.

Also how do you reinstall the shift linkage bolt near the shifter with the entire thing high up in the tunnel?

93Polo

A long time friend and forum member and I have swapped a dozen or so clutches over the past 20 years on our cars and friends’. We’re on our 6th engine out project. If you want fun try putting the motor back in with the torque tube, trans etc in place. I have never separated the trans from the torque for installation, and with a DTE trans brace, I’d rather get that installed out of the car. However, I believe RPM recommends installing the torque tube and trans/diff as 2 separate pieces. It may have been DTE or both, been a long time since I read that.

A well aligned clutch and getting the angles lined up is critical. We use the same transmission jack. A second transmission jack helps get the subframe back in place. We don’t disconnect the brake lines but you have to be careful maneuvering. I believe we start out with the assembly on the jack forward in the car and bring it back into place as we get higher. I also have to watch the shifter rod and lower shifter box as they are close to the fuel lines in the tunnel going back in on my car an 01 Z06. I may leave the lower shifter box off next time and install it later. My friends ’00 FRC does not seem to come as close. They should be the same but…..

Bobtam

The safest way to do it is install the torque tube alone. Then bolt in the trans and then install the rear cradle. I did it with brake lines installed. Trying to install everything at ne can easily damage the pilot bearing. Ask me how I know.

pianoman90

Sooo really appreciate all of the advice. The metal alignment tool arrived today.

Plastic tool:


Metal tool:


So alignment is definitely the issue. And I don't want to talk about it but the new GM pilot bearing I installed is trashed from repeated attempts. I'm going to replace everything again using the metal alignment tool and hopefully will be successful this time. I went ahead and removed the tube to try this approach next time.

93Polo

We install everything with the shifter off the torque tube and then reinstall while buttoning up the interior.

Go as slow as possible, jamming it in as mentioned can damage the pilot bearing.

Bruss

Looks like you got her all straightened out. Its good to have patience. When it comes time for me to do a clutch I will get a metal alignment tool from the beginning. Hope to see your completed results posted.

93Polo

If you are rebuilding the torque tube, you can use the input shaft from the torque tube for an alignment tool. If you are upgrading from a 10mm to 12mm, you can use your old input shaft, further we made our own tool from a damaged 10mm tq tube by cutting off the end with the 3 ears attaching the coupler.

Summit, Tick and others sell the alignment tools.

I very much recommend disassembling the torque tube to inspect the bearings and couplers. If the torque tube fails, it can take the clutch with it.

acroy

Another vote for installing the TT by itself. I took off the shifter as well. I have the same equipment - quickjacks, tranny jack, and a couple floor jacks. Bit of a PITA but doable.
good luck!

Supercharged111

I've had my drivetrain out a few times from torque tube to diff and always installed as one. I think I may have jacked on the motor to get it to line up better, but it's been a few beers, I mean years since I did it. I've fought more getting the T56 back into my F body than I ever did with the C5. The other thing to try is hanging a ratchet off of the crank and rotating the motor while you try and push it the rest of the way in. I've used a long bolt to help guide and pull trannies in many many times, but the trick is to go SLOW and not put too much force on it. Use a 1/4" ratchet to save you from yourself. If you can't watch the assembly slide in with the bolt, something is wrong. It's a slow, accurate way to draw it all home if you're smart with it.

pianoman90

So bad news guys. I have damaged some parts during the install / removal. Ultimately I bent the input shaft and cracked the slave.





I thought the input shaft looked straight and didn't see any visible wobble. So I bought another GM slave, I also installed a new pilot bearing. The slave came in recently and I realized that I've really messed up. Here are some shots of the new slave attached. Notice the gap between the top and bottom of the input shaft.







I pulled the prop shaft out and don't see any major problems. The couplers look ok, the front bearing spins without noise and is not loose, the torque tube channels look ok.







So I guess I'm looking for some advice at this point. It's clear the damage occurred when lowering the entire torque tube. I don't see any cracks in the tube itself. Should I start with a new input shaft and front bearing? Is there a shop in that you all would recommend I send it to for rebuild?