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Engine Dies While Driving - MAF Code, Not the MAF

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Old 06-14-2020, 12:19 PM
  #61  
C5 Diag
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Originally Posted by ddecart
Just back-probed the MAF signal at the ECM. The signal is absolutely rock-solid when driving, even when the engine stumbles. So, it's not the MAF wiring, either.

Opinions on the next step?
Retune this controller
Find a new controller and retune that

These damn things are as rare as hens teeth, it seems.

How did you read the MAF voltage ???...if you used a DVOM their refresh rate is to slow to see if the signal drops out !!!...best to use a graphing multimeter but a scope would be best.
Old 06-14-2020, 08:05 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
How did you read the MAF voltage ???...if you used a DVOM their refresh rate is to slow to see if the signal drops out !!!...best to use a graphing multimeter but a scope would be best.

One of these:
https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-7gav...722.1592179186



https://store.digilentinc.com/analog...-power-supply/

Same widget I used previously. Watching every rise & fall. The frequency changes as it should as the engine dies and motors down.
Old 06-14-2020, 10:36 PM
  #63  
Bill Curlee
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Are you 100% positive that your Ignition Switch (hot in run & start) output voltage isn't cutting out???? The only way to test it is to monitor the (hot in run & start) fuses that supply the BCM, PCM, TAC modules. If that voltage drops out, it is just like turning the engine off using the ignition switch. It wont leave ANY DTCs cause the modules think that you turned the car off.

On top of each fuse are two test slots. Measure then to ground. Remember that the BCM has MULTIPLE fuses and each one needs to be monitored.

Any of the Hot At ALL Times fuses are most likely fine.

Just my 2 cents.

Bill..
Old 06-15-2020, 07:13 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Are you 100% positive that your Ignition Switch (hot in run & start) output voltage isn't cutting out???? The only way to test it is to monitor the (hot in run & start) fuses that supply the BCM, PCM, TAC modules. If that voltage drops out, it is just like turning the engine off using the ignition switch. It wont leave ANY DTCs cause the modules think that you turned the car off.

On top of each fuse are two test slots. Measure then to ground. Remember that the BCM has MULTIPLE fuses and each one needs to be monitored.

Any of the Hot At ALL Times fuses are most likely fine.

Just my 2 cents.

Bill..
The conditions for this to occur are way too predictable to be an ignition power issue. Unless those electrons know to act differently based on whether the IAT is connected or not, and whether the car is at idle or 2500rpm or WOT. This thing will pull a sustained WOT with no problem and will idle forever. Cruising at 2500 rpm makes it choke.
Old 06-28-2020, 08:42 AM
  #65  
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Looking like the ultimate solution is going to be a replacement ECM and a new tune. I'm thinking that a new mail-order tune may be the way to go for now in order to see if I can get the thing running reliably in the interim, and maybe do some diagnostics.

So... where to go for a mail-order? Suggestions?


~Dave
Old 09-08-2021, 07:57 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ddecart
So... where to go for a mail-order? Suggestions?
I'm curious hows this progressing?

For a mail order tune, contact ECS. Send them your PCM, they flash it, and will return it promptly. (I did this and the tune was very good)



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