Tusc

So what is the logic behind swaybar selection? And how are you supposed to correlate it to your shocks/Springs?

In my case, I run Ridetech HQ coilovers and my summer wheels are 305s in the rear and 275s up front, all four on 19s.

Navy Blue 210

My suggestion go to the TPS MOTORSPORTS website (CF Vendor)
and check out the American made tubular sway bars with quality end links.
$400.00 for your choice of G1 35 MM front & 25 rear, or the Z51 sized 31mm front & 25 rear.
i put the larger G1s on my DD base C6 with Bilsteins and the insulated tunnel brace,
which I also recommend to stiffen up the chassis.

• Great upgrade!
• I also have a C5 with Aldan coilovers and C6 Z51 bars.

The consensus by those more skilled & experienced than I
Is that the larger Rear C6 Z06 sway bar 28 MM I believe should only
be used with rear tires 315MM or larger.

_zebra

i did the ZR1 front with a Z51 rear (i believe 33mm/25mm) because i've got the extra blower weight up front.
bought from gmparts direct w/ metal endlinks.

i like the feel: much flatter but not too harsh and much more neutral stability than stock. i kept the C5 Z51 springs/shocks but will be doing C6 Z06 shocks next go-round.

i picked the sway size because it's close to the same front:rear ratio as the Hotchkis & T1 bars but less intense, and cost half as much or less.

the problem with the C6 Z06 rear bar on a C5 is that bars that big are too stiff for the contact patch (grip) smaller tire sizes provide & can tend to push the back end out on you. that's why 315/325+ are recommended... or use the Z51 size.

Tusc

Interesting points about weight balance, as I also have a blower in the nose. The dd tires are 315. I may swap up to toyo r888 or just set the rear with mt et street ss tires. Anticipating a ballpark of 700rw. Since the car is a Z (and I think they look meaner than coupes with the same mod) , I may also consider at some point getting flares and larger rear wheels.

gimp

Anti-roll bars are part of the package. Weight, power, shock setup, and your intended use case (road course track, autocross, a mix, etc.) We can't give you an answer without knowing more.

Tusc

Use is pretty much going to be late night rips down twisty country roads with elevation changes. A few Mexico runs. And general driving use. Eventually may get into courses... But this car may be overpowered for cone courses.

gimp

Are you seeing oversteer or understeer you want to correct?

ddecart

To understand a little more, why are those your spring, damper, and tire choices?

Tusc

Tires - traction and biggest to fit without sticking out.

Ridetech HQ - got them for a good price, single adjustable, I was eager to have true independent suspension.

Bars - both cars came with C5Z bars.

And that is the point of the original thread: I don't know dip about suspension in performance terms which matter. I've drag raced in the past and I'll work times on the new engine combo. Haven't done track days in the past, but am curious to try. So because I don't know what "works" in combination or in combination with my powerplant I am seeking guidance so I am at least not horribly mismatched to start. I can always swap parts over time.

oharal

Well you say you *want* sway bars but still have not described what behavior you're aiming to change. If you just *want* some sway bars, buy anything thicker than OEM which is basically any aftermarket solution or any from a C6 z06 or zr1.

Navy Blue 210

One key feature about the G1 Pros from TPS Motorsports (I didn't remember to mention) is that the rear bar is
3 way adjustable, from soft, to medium, & firm by changing the end-link attachments from outer,middle, and inner on
each side of the bar. Most adjustable sets that I am familiar with, Pfadt, etc start @ $750.00 and go up from there.

02torchred

I'd imagine with coil overs you can run stiffer sways than most leaf spring systems and be better off. Not only with the ability to adjust the softness, but also not having to deal with the cross talk and sway bar-likeness that the leaf springs have. In other words, because you don't have the leaf springs that can act as a sway bar itself, you can afford your self to get stiffer sways than say the common C6 Z51 sways, and adjust the firmness of the shocks if you feel any perceived harshness. You could probably go C6 ZR1 33mm front bar, and C6 Z06 28mm rear bar, especially with those wider tires in the rear. If you don't like them, you could always sell them which is the beauty of the C6 bars being so desirable. Some one would probably be stoked to have them, and you could then maybe try out the C6 Z51 31mm front bar and C6 Z51 25.4mm rear bar.

I have C5 Z06 Leaf springs all around with 2013 C6 Z06 shocks and C6 Z51 sways and I love the set up

ddecart

In short, spring rates are chosen to set the basic ride dynamics. That's the ride frequency, or the rate at which the car will bounce if it had springs only with no dampers. The spring rates are determined in order to achieve a balanced "bounce" over a variety of events, to be matched well with the damper valving.

Bars merely augment the springs. Springs provide a certain level of roll stiffness, and bars are added to 1) supplement the springs to lower the total roll stiffness, and 2) to balance the load transfer between the front and rear axles to achieve the desired handling performance in both steady state and dynamic events. Bars do not increase the load transfer, no matter what anyone might tell you.

Without knowing how the springs you have differ from stock, and without knowing how the bars augment the springs, picking bars becomes a completely subjective task. Frankly, unless there is some particular behaviour that you're trying to change, I would leave them as-is.

Tusc

That is what I gathered from posts here and additional reading. My initial approach was flawed, but I did gain at least a base understanding. Definitely an area I need to continue to explore. Since the car won't even be on the ground for a long time yet with a ton of projects to do on it over the winter, this topic will have to wait until April or May when I can reliably road test it again up here in the northeast. But with that, I suspect that if I have RideTech coilovers then their own bars are at least going to be in high contention when the time comes as likely to be closer to a balanced set.

Kubs

The car already had true independent suspension from the factory. In fact, what you LOST going to coil overs is the added sway bar affect from the way the transverse leaf mounts in the car. The appeal of coil overs over the transverse leafs is easier adjustability. Spring rates are cheaper and easier to change, and ride height is easier, but from a performance standpoint they are not better than the leafs.

To answer your question, any aftermarket sway bars you buy will make the car flatter and would be fine for the type of driving you do. Unless you are competing and need to squeeze out that extra bit of time, you dont need anything fancy. The C6 Z51 bars would be a noticeable improvement and relatively cheaper.

jjc508520

I'll tell you what - the suspension on my FRC has only Bilstein B8 added - and at the track day on Sat (videos shortly) I was thinking how nice the balance was - this is riding on Nitto NT-01.

tdishon

I'm having a heck of a time with the sway bar hitting the ridetech coilover. Maybe adjustable end links and lengthen them? Anyone else having this issue?

Speedy007

I say pull one off a zo6 or z51 they had the better sway bars plenty around the junk yards dirt cheap you will improve handling with prob a 75.00 for both of then vs the 500 plus dollars people ask for these for our cars ...paint it whatever pretty color your little heart desires ...... and u can pick up better bushings with less give poly reds

_zebra

i'd personally go with C6 bars, and unless you're running 315+ section width rears, i'd keep it no stiffer than the C6 Z51 in the back (too-small of a contact patch increases oversteer potential when you get to C6 Z06/ZR1 stiffness).

c5arlen

I went Z51 bars and new bushings along with new links..... SO much better!