Stock C5Z: Insane wheel hop
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Stock C5Z: Insane wheel hop
Stock 2002 C5Z with 91k on the clock. Purchased it 4 months ago with 90k miles.
Since then, I have experienced a plethora of problems resulting in having rebuilt the transmission, replacing the clutch + associated parts, rear main seal, and much more.
One of the issues I have been experiencing has been severe wheel hop. When I had the clutch replaced, I had my trusty mechanic give the entire rear suspension a once-over and he said all the bushings and shocks were good. The car had balding 2-year-old Eagle F1s, and I recently replaced them with brand new Nitto NT05's. The tires obviously grip better resulting in less slippage, but when it does slip, the wheel hop is worse.
This is a stock car so I'm hesitant to just throw hundreds and thousands of dollars in aftermarket suspension parts to try and fix the issue. I know I shouldn't be having this issue with a 100% stock car. I am however looking at possibly trying out the PFADT transmission mount, as I am reading this is normally the next thing that leads to a fix.
Was wondering if anyone had any insight on what would most likely be the fix? Or what I should have inspected next?
Since then, I have experienced a plethora of problems resulting in having rebuilt the transmission, replacing the clutch + associated parts, rear main seal, and much more.
One of the issues I have been experiencing has been severe wheel hop. When I had the clutch replaced, I had my trusty mechanic give the entire rear suspension a once-over and he said all the bushings and shocks were good. The car had balding 2-year-old Eagle F1s, and I recently replaced them with brand new Nitto NT05's. The tires obviously grip better resulting in less slippage, but when it does slip, the wheel hop is worse.
This is a stock car so I'm hesitant to just throw hundreds and thousands of dollars in aftermarket suspension parts to try and fix the issue. I know I shouldn't be having this issue with a 100% stock car. I am however looking at possibly trying out the PFADT transmission mount, as I am reading this is normally the next thing that leads to a fix.
Was wondering if anyone had any insight on what would most likely be the fix? Or what I should have inspected next?
#2
Intermediate
I had the same issue on mine recently with 75k on a stock suspension. I also visually inspected everything and everything appeared fine however i decided to replace the shocks. I put on a set of C6 Z06 shocks and let me tell you, it made big a difference. I never realized how worn the stock ones were until I put a new set on. After that, the wheel hop was gone and it rides so much better and much more responsive. They cost me $225 for the set and were pretty easy to put in. Unfortunately just a visual inspection wont always identify an issue with shocks.
Last edited by balbosky01; 05-22-2019 at 08:06 AM. Reason: spelling
#3
Melting Slicks
Another thing to try would be engine and transmission mounts. The c5 drivetrain moves an insane amount with the stock mounts. Also check your tire pressure. Should be 30psi cold all around.
#4
Shocks. If all the bushings and everything look good, I'd say start there
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Think BEFORE hitting "Submit Reply"
Posts: 9,414
Received 708 Likes
on
391 Posts
Stock 2002 C5Z with 91k on the clock. Purchased it 4 months ago with 90k miles.
Since then, I have experienced a plethora of problems resulting in having rebuilt the transmission, replacing the clutch + associated parts, rear main seal, and much more.
One of the issues I have been experiencing has been severe wheel hop. When I had the clutch replaced, I had my trusty mechanic give the entire rear suspension a once-over and he said all the bushings and shocks were good. The car had balding 2-year-old Eagle F1s, and I recently replaced them with brand new Nitto NT05's. The tires obviously grip better resulting in less slippage, but when it does slip, the wheel hop is worse.
This is a stock car so I'm hesitant to just throw hundreds and thousands of dollars in aftermarket suspension parts to try and fix the issue. I know I shouldn't be having this issue with a 100% stock car. I am however looking at possibly trying out the PFADT transmission mount, as I am reading this is normally the next thing that leads to a fix.
Was wondering if anyone had any insight on what would most likely be the fix? Or what I should have inspected next?
Since then, I have experienced a plethora of problems resulting in having rebuilt the transmission, replacing the clutch + associated parts, rear main seal, and much more.
One of the issues I have been experiencing has been severe wheel hop. When I had the clutch replaced, I had my trusty mechanic give the entire rear suspension a once-over and he said all the bushings and shocks were good. The car had balding 2-year-old Eagle F1s, and I recently replaced them with brand new Nitto NT05's. The tires obviously grip better resulting in less slippage, but when it does slip, the wheel hop is worse.
This is a stock car so I'm hesitant to just throw hundreds and thousands of dollars in aftermarket suspension parts to try and fix the issue. I know I shouldn't be having this issue with a 100% stock car. I am however looking at possibly trying out the PFADT transmission mount, as I am reading this is normally the next thing that leads to a fix.
Was wondering if anyone had any insight on what would most likely be the fix? Or what I should have inspected next?
Did your mechanic actually load the mount to see what kind of deflection there is?
Even a stock replacement should help if you don't want to spend the money on a Pfadt mount.
#6
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If it were me, I would change the transmission mount AND the engine mounts along with getting the C6 ZO6 shocks and see where that puts you in the drivetrain shake/ wheel hop show.
Power brake the engine or load the drive train against the brake and see if the drivers side engine mount is separated. It will rise up and separate if the mount is torn. Most peoples drivers side mount is torn and they never realize it.
Bill
Power brake the engine or load the drive train against the brake and see if the drivers side engine mount is separated. It will rise up and separate if the mount is torn. Most peoples drivers side mount is torn and they never realize it.
Bill
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
Planning to change the motor mounts and/or transmission mount very soon. As to the motor mounts, I know I can pick from Hinson, PFADT or OEM rubber. I've read bad things about the PFADT ones and am thinking about either Hinson or OEM rubber. Which would you guys recommend? This is a 100% street car...
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Inspect the old OEM engine mounts. If they are not broken and look to be in good shape replacing them with stock may not resolve the issue. If you find them damaged/torn /weak, new OEMs may resolve the issue. Let us know what the engine mount inspection reveals. Try that power brake engine torque test to see if the drivers side is separated.
BC
BC
#9
Instructor
Rear tie rod ends and shocks are where I'd start. My car felt really loose and floaty with wheel hop, and it ended up being the rear outer tie rod ends. Both sides had significant movement at 3 and 9 o'clock. It's easy to check. If anything moves changer them. Edit to add my car has 50k miles.
Last edited by evolmotorsprt; 05-30-2019 at 01:21 AM.
#10
Team Owner
If it were me, I would stop spinning the tires unnecessarily because when it will hops, really really bad things can happen.
#11
Safety Car
My 03Z was like that brand new. It could be controlled with better tires and driving style. Drag radials helped alot, and some throttle control. A high RPM dump would get that azz hoppin every time. A low RPM windup works better.
#12
Instructor
#14
Burning Brakes
I would start with the shocks. Then the trans mount. I have Hinson engine and trans mounts. They add a little vibration over stock but not much. No more hop (I only had a mild case). I would expect more vibration with a PFADT mount, and probably overkill for a mostly stock car.
#15
Drifting
My 03 Z did it since new also. Only at the drag strip, not so much on the street. Have not found a cure.
#16
Safety Car
New shocks.
C6Z if you want a cheap simple upgrade/swap
Ridetech HQ's if you want more than C6Z plus adjust-ability
Viking double adjustables for a very cost effective shock.
C6Z if you want a cheap simple upgrade/swap
Ridetech HQ's if you want more than C6Z plus adjust-ability
Viking double adjustables for a very cost effective shock.
Last edited by smitty2919; 04-09-2020 at 02:50 PM.