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I have a 2000 Corvette base. After the ordeal of replacing the damper I get the service active handling and abs warnings. No wiring was damaged and according to a friends scan tool the steering position sensor is in working condition. I am thinking that the rack sensor and the steering wheel sensor are not synchronized. Is there a DIY way to fix the problem? Both the rack and steering wheel moved during the repair.
I've got exactly the same issue, after replacing the same part (harmonic balancer) which I posted about last night. Mines a 2002 Z06. Hoping there's a DIY resolve for this that someone can suggest. Is your code c1214?
A common one that people miss when putting the cars back together is the wheel speed sensor up on top of the frame rails. Go double check that both of those were plugged back in. Just open the hood and they'll be right dead center on top of the frame rail perhaps ever-so-slightly rearward of a line from one ball joint to the other side. It'll be a gray and black connector with I think 3 pins, sorta long and narrow, about 2.25" x 3/4"wide. Oval in shape. They will cause that.
I dont recall the codes but I know that my steering rack and steering wheel senor are out of sync. All is well until I turn the steering wheel hard left.
If you don't maintain the steering wheel position to the actual wheel position, you will see the problem that you are seeing.
Someone let the steering wheel turn from the position that it was in when you disconnected the steering shaft from the rack. or moved the actual wheel position when the shaft was disconnected. Now the steering wheel position sensor at the base of the steering column (at the fire wall on the inside of the cab) is out of ZERO alignment.
You will need to disconnect the steering shaft from the rack and either turn the wheels to the correct position or turn the steering wheel to the zero position.
You should really pull up and read the DTCs in the DIC to rule out the NUMEROUS OTHER DTCs that could be causing this issue.
To do this correctly, you need a GM TECH2 or you can get creative and use a multimeter to read the output voltage on the SWPS. It needs to be right around 2.5 ish volts DC to be zero (wheel pointed dead ahead) Once the wheels are dead ahead and the SWPS is 2.5 ish volts, reconnect the shafts again! .
Hey Bill
I got creative and used the volt meter using the attached diagram. I read the voltage from #6 to ground. I used the metal bracket by the clutch pedal for the ground. My readings were .4 Full Left. 2.6 Center 11.2 Full Right. Reattached the the steering at the 2.6 volt reading. I of course repeated that test several times after. 2.6 V was the center, wheels straight ahead. Voltage was smooth lock to lock. No dips or spikes so I assume that I have a working SWPS and it is adjusted correctly.
I then cleared all of the codes started the car and again, turned the steering full left and on come the lights. My Codes are C1232 U1096 U1064 U1016.
Proceeding on I found it odd that C1232 would pop up only at full left.
At this point I have determined that the wires to the Wheel Speed Sensor do not appear to be pinched and routed correctly but possibly damaged.
If you are anyone else hat any tips or tricks for troubleshooting this issue I would greatly appreciate your help
Hey Bill
I got creative and used the volt meter using the attached diagram. I read the voltage from #6 to ground. I used the metal bracket by the clutch pedal for the ground. My readings were .4 Full Left. 2.6 Center 11.2 Full Right. Reattached the the steering at the 2.6 volt reading. I of course repeated that test several times after. 2.6 V was the center, wheels straight ahead. Voltage was smooth lock to lock. No dips or spikes so I assume that I have a working SWPS and it is adjusted correctly.
I then cleared all of the codes started the car and again, turned the steering full left and on come the lights. My Codes are C1232 U1096 U1064 U1016.
Proceeding on I found it odd that C1232 would pop up only at full left.
At this point I have determined that the wires to the Wheel Speed Sensor do not appear to be pinched and routed correctly but possibly damaged.
If you are anyone else hat any tips or tricks for troubleshooting this issue I would greatly appreciate your help
Forum member ( CorvetteBrewer) today has similar issue...his was a C1233 !!...might as well follow along for some T/S !!
Forum member ( CorvetteBrewer) today has similar issue...his was a C1233 !!...might as well follow along for some T/S !!
Didn't really pay attention to those numbers (11.2v R ??) until now but you shouldn't see more than 5 volts !!...on the analog side the BCM supplies a 5 volt ref and a low ref (ground)...I tested mine and it was .88v Left, 2.96v Center,and 3.98v Right
I used the steel bracket by the clutch pedal for the ground. I could try that but I doubt it would make a difference. I think it is on center. If I adjust the steering rack connector from the position that it is now, I get a code too much time to steering center. My problem is only at hard left. If I avoid hard left I can drive this car all day long with no codes or lights. Could there be some sort of a limiter or damper int the rack?
You said you were reading the voltage from pin 6 which is the analog output from the SWPS...that signal is the one I was reading from my Tech 2...as you can see in the 2000 wiring diagram I posted here there are 2 digital inputs at the EBCM which are 12 volts and they are potentiometers as you can see...I'm FAR from being the VES expert on the Forum so maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in on this...Bill, where are you ??...LOL !!
If you don't maintain the steering wheel position to the actual wheel position, you will see the problem that you are seeing.
Someone let the steering wheel turn from the position that it was in when you disconnected the steering shaft from the rack. or moved the actual wheel position when the shaft was disconnected. Now the steering wheel position sensor at the base of the steering column (at the fire wall on the inside of the cab) is out of ZERO alignment.
Wouldn't you have to rotate the wheel 360 degrees in order for the swps to go out of phase since the steering shaft only connects in one orientation?
...I read the voltage from #6 to ground. I used the metal bracket by the clutch pedal for the ground. My readings were .4 Full Left, 2.6 Center, 11.2 Full Right...
If you got 11.2v, then something is wrong
Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Didn't really pay attention to those numbers (11.2v R ??) until now but you shouldn't see more than 5 volts !!...on the analog side the BCM supplies a 5 volt ref and a low ref (ground)...I tested mine and it was .88v Left, 2.96v Center,and 3.98v Right
As it can be seen below, the analog output from the SWPS comes from a potentiometer internally attached to the 5v reference bus. Therefore it can't never be above 5v.
Originally Posted by C5 Diag
...as you can see in the 2000 wiring diagram I posted here there are 2 digital inputs at the EBCM which are 12 volts and they are potentiometers as you can see...I'm FAR from being the VES expert on the Forum so maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in on this...Bill, where are you ??...LOL !!
I'm no expert either, but just my 2¢ . Maybe I'm looking at the wrong spot, but I don't see the potentiometers you are referencing. From what I can gather looking at the schematics, the digital outputs from the SWPS come from switches that provide "open" or "ground". The corresponding inputs in the EBTCM have a resistor internally connected to the 12v bus, therefore the digital signals, at any given time, should be either "0" (0v) or "1" (12v) depending on the position of the internal switch from the SWPS at that moment, and not a variable value from a potentiometer like the analog signal.
As it can be seen below, the analog output from the SWPS comes from a potentiometer internally attached to the 5v reference bus. Therefore it can't never be above 5v.
I'm no expert either, but just my 2¢ . Maybe I'm looking at the wrong spot, but I don't see the potentiometers you are referencing. From what I can gather looking at the schematics, the digital outputs from the SWPS come from switches that provide "open" or "ground". The corresponding inputs in the EBTCM have a resistor internally connected to the 12v bus, therefore the digital signals, at any given time, should be either "0" (0v) or "1" (12v) depending on the position of the internal switch from the SWPS at that moment, and not a variable value from a potentiometer like the analog signal.
Thanks !!...I should have looked where that "arrow" was pointing to on that signal wire...I should have my eyes checked...LOL !!!
Thanks Guys I finally got it. C1232 started to pop up in other conditions other than full left steering. Replaced everything ,hub was under warranty, replaced ABS pigtail, and soldered in an ABS repair harness. So one can center the steering using the analog output at 2.5v You cant be careful enough with wiring,etc, when doing a steering rack removal.
Again...to anyone who is taking the steering rack out for whatever reason....Bungee cord the steering wheel so that it cannot move...BEFORE...you take that bolt out. It will save you a lot of headaches...
Again...to anyone who is taking the steering rack out for whatever reason....Bungee cord the steering wheel so that it cannot move...BEFORE...you take that bolt out. It will save you a lot of headaches...
FWIW, I replaced my HB and before I did anything I tied down the steering wheel (thank you CorvetteForum ) and disconnected the battery. I had no problems afterward with any electronics.
I DON'T KNOW as I'm just a backyard mechanic, but if the steering position sensor needs to be reset doesn't that require a Tech II ?
05-19-2019, 06:23 PM
Problems after harmonic damper replacement
As it can be seen below, the analog output from the SWPS comes from a potentiometer internally attached to the 5v reference bus. Therefore it can't never be above 5v.
. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong spot, but I don't see the potentiometers you are referencing. From what I can gather looking at the schematics, the digital outputs from the SWPS come from switches that provide "open" or "ground". The corresponding inputs in the EBTCM have a resistor internally connected to the 12v bus, therefore the digital signals, at any given time, should be either "0" (0v) or "1" (12v) depending on the position of the internal switch from the SWPS at that moment, and not a variable value from a potentiometer like the analog signal.
