RPGR90s

Drove my C5 6 speed to work yesterday. (about 120 miles round trip), and I noticed later in the drive home that the shifter mechanism felt.......by best word would be, felt like it needs lubrication. It didn't shift hard or anything, but moving the shifter between gears exhibited a new feeling of something in the shift lever itself needing some grease or lubrication. There was a slight sound of squeaking, like what would be exhibited if I was moving a rod through a nylon washer with no oil or lubrication (sorry, poor explanation).

Maybe my linkage needs adjusting? Or is there some lubrication points that need addressing?

I'm the 2nd owner (54k) and I don't know if the linkage has even serviced or adjusted so maybe start there?

Other than that. Wow! what a blast driving a convertible on the freeway at 80mph.

Bill Curlee

SHIFTER: If you have a STOCK C5 shifter,,, IT just plain *** sucks! Here is what I recommend. There is a forum member (sponsor) who rebuilds the shifter lower box. He has vastly improved the design of the bushings inside the box and people rave about it. Get that up-graded lower box box.

I have a KIRBAN Shifter and love it. You can get several different aftermarket shifters. I prefer shifters that have ADDITIONAL centering springs inside the shifter. The stock GM Shifter DOES NOT have any centering springs or shift gates. Its just a ball and socket that (when the shifter is removed from the lower unit) will just FLOP AROUND to any position.

Another area of concern when you have bad shift issues is the TRANSMISSION FLUID.. Our MN6/MN12s take ATF Fluid!! If you drain yours it will most likely look like brown metal flake paint. Its normal but, when it old and dirty, it effects shift quality. Get FOUR QUARTS of ATF. I recommend AMSOIL Torque Drive ATF. Its compatible with early and late C5 MN6/MN12 transmissions. Get 4 qts. It will take 3.75 qts for a drain and fill.

YES, you can remove the top shifter handle unit from the lower shifter box and lubricate the shaft inside the box. Look at the rear bushing area where the shaft comes out of the box and see if you can feel any SLOP between the shaft and the box. If you can, you for sure need a rebuilt lower box.

The linkage shaft doesn't really have any lube points. It has joints like a steering shaft has on a newer cars steering shaft. Yes they can get sloppy but it usually not an issue.

PM me your e-mail address and I will send you tons of shifter and box pictures.

Bill

RPGR90s

PM sent. Thanks!

RPGR90s

I wanted to thank Bill Curlee for the excellent information he sent me. I didn't go with the Kirban shifter yet, but his excellent photos showed me how to take the stock unit apart.

In my case, the shifter was out of adjustment. The shifter box components looked like new once disassembled, so I cleaned and greased everything and it's shifts beautifully now. Gone is that feeling like it was taking two steps to engage 2nd gear also.

thanks again,

RPGR90s

voda1

What did you use for grease?

RPGR90s

I used high temp brake caliper grease inside the box for the rod movement and the contact where the rod inserts into the linkage.

With only 50k, mine was really clean, but very dry. It made a nice improvement. I had it out over the weekend and let my buddy drive. He loved the way it shifts.

xltboss

I have a 2002 with 54k miles as well. I dont have any squeaking but often times 1st, 6th, and reverse are very difficult to shift in to. It's hard to describe but it feels like something is stopping it from going fully into gear. I slide it back out into the neutral position and then on the second try it just glides into gear perfectly. It's like clockwork. 1st doesnt do it very often but 6th and reverse is every time. Should I try the same steps as above?

jjc508520

Are you sure about that? I have a stock shifter and even before getting the rebuilt lower box it would land nicely in the 3-4 groove when moved to neutral....

turabo87

I might have to readjust mine then. Mine also feels like two steps to engage 2nd. I just changed my trans oil yesterday for first time ever (maybe first time ever on car's history at 95k miles) and felt like a pretty noticeable difference in smoothness (less notchy overall), but occassionally I still feel those "2 steps" on engaging 2nd.

jackthelad

It's the gearbox doing that, not the shifter assembly.

And I have to disagree re the stock shifter. When new, mine was perfectly fine. With age, you get some slop, and it dries out. I rebuilt mine completely - drilled out the rivets, used a plate and emery to very carefully tighten up the ball and socket, then 3/16" bolts and locknuts to reassemple - with plenty of synthetic grease. It's cut down as low as I could go - the screw on **** is right down to the top of the insulator. And I tightened up the shift box to torque tube fasteners with new hex bolts and flat washers to really "squash" those OEM insulating washers. And don't forget the Locktite when you put it all back together.

Definitely change the fluid in the 'box. Mine came out dark, but worse, there was significantly less than there should have been, yet there has never been any sign of oil loss - garage floor has never seen a drop of oil from anywhere on the car. Anyway, new oil (regular Valvoline Dex III in a jug from Walmart) dramatically improved shifting - even with the shorter shift set up, it's an easy shift.

BTW, I did try a C6 shifter assembly. Removed it and replaced it with my modded C5 as (a) there was no improvement in shifting and (b) I did not like that it pushed the **** further back, plus I like the shorter shift I have now.

nschiff

Get your shifter box rebuilt by TMOD Customs and change the trans fluid. Lubes or grease will not fix the problems of a worn shifter box.

moserbe

MGW shifter and lower box work great.

moserbe

How long does it take for a newly rebuilt 6-speed RPM transmission and a new
mgw shifter to break in (not so stiff).