All Bore or Storker
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All Bore or Storker
I'am thinking about the All Bore or Storker which one is better as I have heard that some resleeve blocks have some type of coolent problem some not all want some advise on which way to go I'm thinking 382,387,389.Will they last as long as a stock block?Will any of these motors reach 100,000 mile or I'am I asking for to much.
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Melting Slicks
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Re: All Bore or Storker (fairway)
You should definitely go with a storker, I hear they FLY :lol: Sorry, couldnt resist :jester :cheers:
I think you could easily get 100k out of one, it would just depend on maintenance, original build quality, and how bad you beat on it :cheers:
[Modified by rrobert22, 9:20 PM 11/7/2002]
I think you could easily get 100k out of one, it would just depend on maintenance, original build quality, and how bad you beat on it :cheers:
[Modified by rrobert22, 9:20 PM 11/7/2002]
#4
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Re: All Bore or Storker (racer44)
Depends on what you want. You will find more than enough info if you do a search. But here is some cliff notes...
All-Bore:
More HP/Less torque than stroker
Unshrouding of the valves b/c of larger bore
Less piston speed means quicker/higher revs
But you must purchase new pistons and open the heads up at the very minimum
Call MMS, they make some awesome All-Bores!
Stroker:
More torque/less HP
Only need to replace crank
Better for the street
"Stroker" sounds cooler
I am pretty sure all of the re-sleeving process have been worked out also. If you can afford it go with the C5-R block and you will definately not have any sleeve problems.(about 6k for the block)
I went with a 388ci All-Bore b/c I want to achieve the most HP possible. Believe me just b/c mine is an All-Bore does not mean torque is lacking. You will be more than satified in that department. Boy when it hits 4k hold on!
470rwhp is reasonable with a well tuned 388 All-Bore.
I went with forged pistons and rods in case I want to spray a 150shot at the track and feel safe. That will put over 700hp at the crank.
Maybe Kewlbrz will chime in and break it down even more as he seems to make the most sense between the two.
[Modified by C5-VERT, 11:53 PM 11/7/2002]
All-Bore:
More HP/Less torque than stroker
Unshrouding of the valves b/c of larger bore
Less piston speed means quicker/higher revs
But you must purchase new pistons and open the heads up at the very minimum
Call MMS, they make some awesome All-Bores!
Stroker:
More torque/less HP
Only need to replace crank
Better for the street
"Stroker" sounds cooler
I am pretty sure all of the re-sleeving process have been worked out also. If you can afford it go with the C5-R block and you will definately not have any sleeve problems.(about 6k for the block)
I went with a 388ci All-Bore b/c I want to achieve the most HP possible. Believe me just b/c mine is an All-Bore does not mean torque is lacking. You will be more than satified in that department. Boy when it hits 4k hold on!
470rwhp is reasonable with a well tuned 388 All-Bore.
I went with forged pistons and rods in case I want to spray a 150shot at the track and feel safe. That will put over 700hp at the crank.
Maybe Kewlbrz will chime in and break it down even more as he seems to make the most sense between the two.
[Modified by C5-VERT, 11:53 PM 11/7/2002]
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Re: All Bore or Storker (fairway)
depends on what your trying to acheive.
You've set the parameters, in that you are looking to either go for bore or stroke, but not both.
A missing element here is what are you trying to accomplish, and what do you want out of the car.
Do you want the best quarter mile performance?
Do you want great street manners?
Somewhere in between?
With that said, lets take a look at the differences.
First, HP is the bottom line, end all be all of powering a car in a race. HP is a function of TQ, and RPM. HP is not different from TQ, because its part of TQ. Now, again, with that said. HP is the botton line, end all be all of powering a car in a race. Period.
Remember that TQ can do a considerable amount of work over time. And HP can do a considerable amount of work in less time.
When displacements are similar or equal:
TQ over HP = taking your time to pull a stump, or plow a field.
HP over TQ = hauling azz.
Again, HP is precisly what defines a motors ability to do work, and when you optimize gearing, you are where you want to be for racing at WOT.
An all-bore immediately has the advantage of being a better flowing engine which produces more HP. Plus some more TQ simply due to the displacement increase.
An all-bore will rev quicker because of the shorter stroke relative to bore size. It also does not have dead spots at top and bottom dead center compared to a stroker.
An all-bore has less side loading, and is more durable for high revving.
Disadvantages of an all bore are that its very nature is to rev high, and make power, so the valve train will need to be strong, and may need to be maintained more often.
A stroker, has the advantage of low end torque, which contributes to great drivability, and a great "feeling" for the street. But it ends there. The instance your at WOT, and HP and RPM begin to develop, an bore over stroke reigns supreme.
If drag racing is your preference, or you want the best performance comparing stroking or boring. Boring is the obvious choice.
If you want to maintain awesome street manners and "feel", and still be pretty close to an all-bores performance potential, then a stroker is a great choice.
Obviously the best choice is to bore and stroke.
Some even do all-bores with offset ground cranks to bring on somemore stroke at a somewhat cheaper cost than buying a stroker crank.
[Modified by kewlbrz, 11:20 PM 11/7/2002]
You've set the parameters, in that you are looking to either go for bore or stroke, but not both.
A missing element here is what are you trying to accomplish, and what do you want out of the car.
Do you want the best quarter mile performance?
Do you want great street manners?
Somewhere in between?
With that said, lets take a look at the differences.
First, HP is the bottom line, end all be all of powering a car in a race. HP is a function of TQ, and RPM. HP is not different from TQ, because its part of TQ. Now, again, with that said. HP is the botton line, end all be all of powering a car in a race. Period.
Remember that TQ can do a considerable amount of work over time. And HP can do a considerable amount of work in less time.
When displacements are similar or equal:
TQ over HP = taking your time to pull a stump, or plow a field.
HP over TQ = hauling azz.
Again, HP is precisly what defines a motors ability to do work, and when you optimize gearing, you are where you want to be for racing at WOT.
An all-bore immediately has the advantage of being a better flowing engine which produces more HP. Plus some more TQ simply due to the displacement increase.
An all-bore will rev quicker because of the shorter stroke relative to bore size. It also does not have dead spots at top and bottom dead center compared to a stroker.
An all-bore has less side loading, and is more durable for high revving.
Disadvantages of an all bore are that its very nature is to rev high, and make power, so the valve train will need to be strong, and may need to be maintained more often.
A stroker, has the advantage of low end torque, which contributes to great drivability, and a great "feeling" for the street. But it ends there. The instance your at WOT, and HP and RPM begin to develop, an bore over stroke reigns supreme.
If drag racing is your preference, or you want the best performance comparing stroking or boring. Boring is the obvious choice.
If you want to maintain awesome street manners and "feel", and still be pretty close to an all-bores performance potential, then a stroker is a great choice.
Obviously the best choice is to bore and stroke.
Some even do all-bores with offset ground cranks to bring on somemore stroke at a somewhat cheaper cost than buying a stroker crank.
[Modified by kewlbrz, 11:20 PM 11/7/2002]
#7
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Re: All Bore or Storker (C5-VERT)
Damn Kewlbrz I hope you save this info. That is alot to type every week when the issue arises! :lol:
#8
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Re: All Bore or Storker (kewlbrz)
Just to add to Kewlbrz:
Its not the peak HP, its the area under the HP curve. So if you are comparing a similar HP engines, but one has a wider RPM band of high HP; it will accelerate you care faster than a similar motor with the same peak HP but a narrower power band.
Its not the peak HP, its the area under the HP curve. So if you are comparing a similar HP engines, but one has a wider RPM band of high HP; it will accelerate you care faster than a similar motor with the same peak HP but a narrower power band.
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Re: All Bore or Storker (MitchAlsup)
Just to add to Kewlbrz:
Its not the peak HP, its the area under the HP curve. So if you are comparing a similar HP engines, but one has a wider RPM band of high HP; it will accelerate you care faster than a similar motor with the same peak HP but a narrower power band.
Its not the peak HP, its the area under the HP curve. So if you are comparing a similar HP engines, but one has a wider RPM band of high HP; it will accelerate you care faster than a similar motor with the same peak HP but a narrower power band.
[Modified by kewlbrz, 10:35 AM 11/8/2002]
#10
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Re: All Bore or Storker (kewlbrz)
This topic has been beaten to death on ls1tech. If you have any question, do a search in the internal engine section. Everything you ever wanted to know about boring and stroking, the pros and the cons is discussed there.
All bore is cheaper than a stroker...
Both make decent power.
Do what you can afford. Or, you can do both and have a 422 or 434.
All bore is cheaper than a stroker...
Both make decent power.
Do what you can afford. Or, you can do both and have a 422 or 434.
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Re: All Bore or Storker (fairway)
All bore. The shorter stroke will let you make some great racing power. Also, if later on you want more all you would have to do is replace the crank for more displacment. Probably the price of a stoker crank will be cheaper by then anyways.
There is a 4" crank coming from Australia supposedly by xmas for around $800. Cast iron crank.
ARE
MTI
Cartek
JPR do the resleeves.
There is a 4" crank coming from Australia supposedly by xmas for around $800. Cast iron crank.
ARE
MTI
Cartek
JPR do the resleeves.
#12
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Re: All Bore or Storker (fairway)
Thanks for the replies that who I've been talking to ARE,MTI,CARTEK I feel that they are some of the best out there.
#13
Re: All Bore or Storker (kewlbrz)
very very cool info. A few questions. 1) Why does all bore make more HP, is it because the engine has more mechanical stress or friction then a stroker of the same cubic inches? Is it becauseyou can flow more air into the engine via bigger valves? 2) cant you just put a lighter weight flywheel on a stroker to make it rev faster.
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Re: All Bore or Storker (J-Rod)
All bore is cheaper than a stroker...