Please help!! Front breaks drag on c5 2001. 57000miles
#21
#23
Melting Slicks
^^^ This looks like the answer to this problem. It is a TSB that applies to 2001 models and describes exactly what is happening and the solution.
Able Chevy should have found the TSB. Definitely worth checking the vacuum brake booster before messing around with the ABS module at the tune of $1,350.00
Last edited by GCG; 06-02-2018 at 11:37 AM.
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter, the info in that TSB certainly sounds like the symptoms that you are encountering.
The same TSB info is available to the techs at the Stealership but it took someone from the Forum to provide it to you. Sort of says something about the problem diagnosis/research capabilities of the techs you are dealing with. JMHO
#26
Update.
So now the dealer is saying that there are “pretty sure” the ebcm is causing the issue I have asked time and time again if break booster is culprit but they assure me it’s not. They said that when unplugged the issue goes away plug it in and issue reappears. No codes thrown. Thoughts?? Should I proceed or take car else where?? I told them about tsb for boaster her said he saw nothing of the sort posted for them at Chevy!! I’m done throwing money at pretty sure this will fix it!! Any advice is appreciated!
#27
Race Director
i dont know and am also just learning all these systems..... but the active handling control systems are pretty sophisticated....so are they saying the ecbm is sensing an active handling control feature that is applying the brakes?
#28
I had a brake problem when I bought my car. It was one of those thin stainless steel plates that the pads ride on had a groove worn in it, some pads come with a new one an some don't. Probably not your issue but who knows. The dealer doesn't.
#29
Race Director
so does it have to be sensory input that causes the EBCM to activate or can it be an internal flaw or corruption that makes it have a mind of its own..i guess as I type this i realize it could be either...
Last edited by bobs77vet; 06-07-2018 at 11:52 AM.
#30
Melting Slicks
So now the dealer is saying that there are “pretty sure” the ebcm is causing the issue I have asked time and time again if break booster is culprit but they assure me it’s not. They said that when unplugged the issue goes away plug it in and issue reappears. No codes thrown. Thoughts?? Should I proceed or take car else where?? I told them about tsb for boaster her said he saw nothing of the sort posted for them at Chevy!! I’m done throwing money at pretty sure this will fix it!! Any advice is appreciated!
At this point, and given the way they have handled the problem, perhaps you should consider taking the car elsewhere and begin with a clean slate with someone that doesn't have to present a "self-defense" to justify not having been able to find a TSB
I would suggest that wherever you go, you take with you the printed TSB and discuss it upfront, along with the history of repairs already done.
#31
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
Before seeing that service bulletin I would have suspected the brake booster as the most likely culprit. In fact, as pretty much the only culprit.
The master cylinder CAN NOT pull the brake pedal down because the master cylinder CAN NOT pull on the rod coming from the brake booster. The rod simply has a blunt end that pushes against the piston in the master cylinder. The booster will return the pedal regardless of what the master cylinder is doing.
The booster will store vacuum. So, shut the engine off and then step on and off the brake pedal hard 4 or 5 times. The pedal should begin to fully return as the vacuum is depleted in the booster.
The master cylinder CAN NOT pull the brake pedal down because the master cylinder CAN NOT pull on the rod coming from the brake booster. The rod simply has a blunt end that pushes against the piston in the master cylinder. The booster will return the pedal regardless of what the master cylinder is doing.
The booster will store vacuum. So, shut the engine off and then step on and off the brake pedal hard 4 or 5 times. The pedal should begin to fully return as the vacuum is depleted in the booster.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 06-07-2018 at 01:24 PM.
#33
What tsb!?
If you feel like giving them another opportunity, print the TSB and discuss it with them. Observe their reaction and their response to it, and then decide whether or not to let them proceed.
At this point, and given the way they have handled the problem, perhaps you should consider taking the car elsewhere and begin with a clean slate with someone that doesn't have to present a "self-defense" to justify not having been able to find a TSB
I would suggest that wherever you go, you take with you the printed TSB and discuss it upfront, along with the history of repairs already done.
At this point, and given the way they have handled the problem, perhaps you should consider taking the car elsewhere and begin with a clean slate with someone that doesn't have to present a "self-defense" to justify not having been able to find a TSB
I would suggest that wherever you go, you take with you the printed TSB and discuss it upfront, along with the history of repairs already done.
#34
Melting Slicks
It's your car and therefore it's your decision, but I wouldn't let them touch the EBCM. Run, Forrest, run!
Note: for your convenience, I included links to Post 23 and TSB here in my message.
Last edited by GCG; 06-07-2018 at 06:22 PM.
#35
After $6600 from the stealer!!
1st off f able Chevy. They suck ***. I was better off from searching the web and going off natural instinct!! Ecbm abs mod break lines calipers master cylinder rotors pads. Guess what’s left and what I suspected the whole time!!!! My break booster!! $220 part had to pay $6600 to figure it out and at that I figured it out!! Sure they did the work but I dignosed the issue. Cars running fine other than misfire.
#36
VERY hard and VERY, VERY expensive lesson to learn!!!!
Do NOT trust a Stealership. They are parts swappers at YOUR expense and not problem diagnosers.
Next time your C5 has a problem post here and you will get the absolute best C5 problem diagnosing anywhere in the world. JMHO
Do NOT trust a Stealership. They are parts swappers at YOUR expense and not problem diagnosers.
Next time your C5 has a problem post here and you will get the absolute best C5 problem diagnosing anywhere in the world. JMHO
#37
Team Owner
This is very interesting!!
I've always noticed, when swapping out the driving (summer) wheels/tires for the storage (winter) wheels/tires, on my car, that the front wheels don't spin all that freely. My car is an '01 also, and it's been that way for as long as I can remember. The drag isn't enough to generate enough heat for the wheels to be warm to the touch, after a reasonable ride, but I have thought that the wheels should spin a little more freely.
Assuming that it's the power booster, and assuming that the new part is still available, is this a simple enough job that can be done at home?
I've always noticed, when swapping out the driving (summer) wheels/tires for the storage (winter) wheels/tires, on my car, that the front wheels don't spin all that freely. My car is an '01 also, and it's been that way for as long as I can remember. The drag isn't enough to generate enough heat for the wheels to be warm to the touch, after a reasonable ride, but I have thought that the wheels should spin a little more freely.
Assuming that it's the power booster, and assuming that the new part is still available, is this a simple enough job that can be done at home?
#38
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 9,554
Received 2,136 Likes
on
1,701 Posts
#39
Race Director
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Iowa
Posts: 13,997
Received 2,709 Likes
on
1,670 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16'-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-
'23-'24
Its BRAKE, not break!
Best wishes on your repair.
Best wishes on your repair.
#40
Melting Slicks
POST 23:
POST 24:
POST 25:
Thread Starter, the info in that TSB certainly sounds like the symptoms that you are encountering.
The same TSB info is available to the techs at the Stealership but it took someone from the Forum to provide it to you. Sort of says something about the problem diagnosis/research capabilities of the techs you are dealing with. JMHO
POST 34:
POST 38:
So sorry for your ordeal, but as they say you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. The solution was posted by AllVette in Post 23 (a detailed service bulletin from GM) and commented on and analyzed many times after that
Check THIS
^^^ This looks like the answer to this problem. It is a TSB that applies to 2001 models and describes exactly what is happening and the solution.
Able Chevy should have found the TSB. Definitely worth checking the vacuum brake booster before messing around with the ABS module at the tune of $1,350.00
Able Chevy should have found the TSB. Definitely worth checking the vacuum brake booster before messing around with the ABS module at the tune of $1,350.00
Thread Starter, the info in that TSB certainly sounds like the symptoms that you are encountering.
The same TSB info is available to the techs at the Stealership but it took someone from the Forum to provide it to you. Sort of says something about the problem diagnosis/research capabilities of the techs you are dealing with. JMHO
Before seeing that service bulletin I would have suspected the brake booster as the most likely culprit. In fact, as pretty much the only culprit.
The master cylinder CAN NOT pull the brake pedal down because the master cylinder CAN NOT pull on the rod coming from the brake booster. The rod simply has a blunt end that pushes against the piston in the master cylinder. The booster will return the pedal regardless of what the master cylinder is doing.
The booster will store vacuum. So, shut the engine off and then step on and off the brake pedal hard 4 or 5 times. The pedal should begin to fully return as the vacuum is depleted in the booster.
The master cylinder CAN NOT pull the brake pedal down because the master cylinder CAN NOT pull on the rod coming from the brake booster. The rod simply has a blunt end that pushes against the piston in the master cylinder. The booster will return the pedal regardless of what the master cylinder is doing.
The booster will store vacuum. So, shut the engine off and then step on and off the brake pedal hard 4 or 5 times. The pedal should begin to fully return as the vacuum is depleted in the booster.
I'm sorry you didn't catch that when it was posted. All posts after Post 23 were written with the tacit understanding that the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) had been read.
It's your car and therefore it's your decision, but I wouldn't let them touch the EBCM. Run, Forrest, run!
Note: for your convenience, I included links to Post 23 and TSB here in my message.
It's your car and therefore it's your decision, but I wouldn't let them touch the EBCM. Run, Forrest, run!
Note: for your convenience, I included links to Post 23 and TSB here in my message.
1st off f able Chevy. They suck ***. I was better off from searching the web and going off natural instinct!! Ebcm abs mod break lines calipers master cylinder rotors pads. Guess what’s left and what I suspected the whole time!!!! My break booster!! $220 part had to pay $6600 to figure it out and at that I figured it out!! Sure they did the work but I dignosed the issue. Cars running fine other than misfire.
Last edited by GCG; 06-17-2018 at 08:26 PM.