czarredd

Trying to find out what the difference is between these 2 oil pumps. Both are high volume...is the 10296 just a higher volume? Thanks

gnharley

Tech at Texas Speed told me they do not recommend using high volume pumps with C5 "Batwing" oil pans , said they are so shallow that the higher volume pump can suck up enough oil to cause starvation at the pickup.

pewter99

I have had 2 10296 pumps installed in 2 C5's...no issues....never heard the starvation problem mentioned above..

nfantbabyjesus

also interested in which to go with between the 10296 and the 295HV

vettenuts

I agree if there are any plans for a lot of high RPM. It will suck the pan dry because of the high volume pump and the slow drain back of the heads.

Personally, I would just port the stock pump or buy one that has been ported.

czarredd

Anyone had any experience with the m295HV?

Georgies

I believe one is high pressure and the other is high volume.from my experience, TSP gives mixed suggestions. They sold me the 10295, and so far so good. You got me worried now lol.

Georgies

czarredd

The 10295 is high pressure.....10296 is high volume. You'll be fine (I think) lol.

neutron82

I have a 10295 on my car and it has been great for the last 4-5 years since I did the cam swap... those are stock volume and come with a high pressure spring installed but they also include a stock pressure spring... I am not sure if this is the same as the 295 pump though, I stayed away from the high volume 10296 for the reasons mentioned above

midnight01

The problem is not oil starvation for any LS engine. The problem is cavatation.

here is an excerpt about front mounted oil pump engines and preferably LS:

Many oil pumps start to cavitate around 5,000 to 6,000 engine RPM. Cavitation occurs when the pump gears are spinning faster than the oil can be pulled into the pump. The gears are spinning like crazy, but the oil just can’t keep up. Tiny air bubbles form along the trailing edges of the gears and aerate the oil, causing the pump’s output to flatten or drop. An erratic oil pressure gauge reading at high RPM is a sure sign the oil pump is cavitating.

The problem that people rumor about sucking it dry only happens during cornering over 1g and its only for a few seconds. It does not effect every day driving as Im sure on the commute to the store or work noone is doing over 1g turns. Read this article about it. You will read about the issue and the cure.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014...d-troublesome/

its a rumor that is false and true at the same time.

Georgies

Thanks for posting!

ImprovedRacing

This is all accurate. Front mount gear-rotor pumps turn at engine speed, which is a little too quick at high RPMs, tending to cause cavitation. The Melling pumps don't cavitate as badly at high RPMs as the factory pumps.

There really is no reason to go with a high-volume pump such as the 10296 or 10355 unless you have AFM or VVT, which require additional oil flow when active, or your engine was built to looser tolerances and requires additional oil flow to maintain proper oil pressure. Otherwise, you are just pumping more oil than the engine needs, which uses more horsepower and increases oil temps.

The issue with oil starvation occurs during cornering. At 1 lateral G, the factory valve cover can hold over 2 quarts of oil. So the more oil volume you pump, the quicker your oil pan will be down by 2 quarts during long sustained cornering.

Georgies

That was very informative. Thanks!

Do they make a gear reduced front oil pump for ls motors?

midnight01

They do in a sense, its considered a blueprinted pump. Which pretty much means you take a handful of pumps and piece together all the good parts to make a "blueprinted" one. They also make pumps that are ported and polished to eliminate a lot of the issues as well. But now you're talking double even triple the cost for a pump.

ZZ06

I don't know if they still make it or not, but back when I had my 418 installed, the pump I researched and bought was SDP blueprinted oil pump.

ImprovedRacing

Unfortunately, no. It's difficult to do something like that due to packaging constraints, or I'm sure it would have been done by GM. We've been looking into it but no luck so far.

The best option is to eliminate the factory pump and run an external pressure pump that's driven by the accessory drive, like most dry sump pumps. Then you can run a spur gear pump, which is much better than a gear-rotor pump (smaller gears and smaller pulses for a more consistent hydrodynamic wedge, improved volumetric efficiency), at a reduced speed.

Route99

According to Melling:
The M295HV increases the the oil flow through the engine by 20%. (Stock pressure, higher volume)

The Melling PN 10295 is a standard volume performance pump that offers 10 percent more pressure using a red pressure relief spring. (Higher pressure, stock volume)

The Melling PN 10296 pump that offers this same higher pressure potential of the 10295 along with an 18-percent increase in volume. (Higher pressure, higher volume)

hatewhatownsyou

FYI: if your building a new motor and are on the higher end of the bearing clearances, go with the 296. Your oil pressure will thank you.

JHrinsin

and then run 5w-40 oil