Patman36

I took a wire off and got my spark plug socket, swivel and extension on it and can't turn it. These are stock plugs and the car has about 11,500 miles. Any ideas? I am scared of breaking the plug... are they supposed to be in there so tight?

Patrick :confused:

Wilson6t7

Dont strip them in there :eek: But they should come out relatively easy :confused:

FRC21

Is your swivel in a bad angle? Try to get on the plug without the swivel, you may have to take off the coil pack for extra room.

Patman36

Nope... they aren't moving. Pisses me off because who knows if the factory uses some kind of anti-seize??? I even tried unscrewing them with the ratchet and extension only without the swivel... no luck.

Patrick :confused: :eek:

FRC21

Thats crazy! Try to put a small breaker bar over the socket wrench for more force. The longer you leave them in there, the harder they will be to remove.

scool93535

Carefull with that breaker bar. I understand it's very expensive if you break if off in there. It may be worth a trip to the dealer, if he screws it up, he'll have to eat it.. If I remember correctly, they only torque to about 7 - 10 lbs. Don't forget the anti-size on the way in. :lol:

Patman36

FRC21... I might try that.

Though I am a little leary about trying any "harder" to get these out. I might just take it to a local speed shop to have it done...

Has this happened to anybody else?

Patrick :cheers:

Patman36

Seriously.... I won't mess THAT up! :D

A trip to the dealer may be in order too... but God knows they will charge me $1.5 million to do it. I mean, they quoted me $124 for STOCK spark plug wires yesterday... something like $8.25 per wire :crazy:

Patrick

FRC21

The plug should not break off in there. Just use a smooth pressure on the breaker bar without a swivel. I like to do my own work though.

Wilson6t7

Dont strip it in the head and you will start having lots of fun :eek:

Dave00C5

Put some even pressure on it and work it loose. It should not break on you. :cool:

Quacker

Sometimes it helps to have the engine hot then try it.

CJS

Be careful if you try to take plugs out with a hot, hot engine! I had a friend who did this on an aluminum headed Buick and the aluminum threads came out with the sparkplug.
I would try it warm at first.

Bullyj

If you have the time to let it sit for a couple of days spray WD-40 at the base where the threads meet the head spray it before work and when you get home and then try it. if still no go use a propane torch on the plug but be careful where you point it. put the heat right on the metal part of the plug and try it while the plug is still hot. If you do get them out might not be a bad idea to chase the threads and most definitly use antisieze.


[Modified by Bullyj, 11:19 PM 10/13/2002]

01Pewter

I just changed my plugs this morning and replaced them with NGK Iridiums. :cool:
I have the following advice.
1. The engine needs to be cold, like over night cold.
2. Remove the coil pack on the drivers side. (A 10mm deep 3/8" drive is needed to remove the bolt next to the alternator.)
3. A swivel does not give enough leverage to break loose the OEM plugs. :rolleyes:
4. I used various extensions to fit into the space.
5. I did use an extension on the handle of the 3/8" drive to get enough leverage to break the plugs loose.
6. Make sure that the terminal on top of the new plugs are tight.
7. Use antisieze on the threads of the new plugs and dielectric silicone grease on the plug wire boots.

Good luck with your project.



[Modified by 01Pewter, 8:32 PM 10/13/2002]

Patman36

I'll try again this week with the coil packs off... it is getting really cold outside and I have no sunlight left!

BTW, the engine was "ice" cold... the oil temp was about 68 degrees and it had satt overnight :)

Patrick :cheers:

luvinc5

I had a similar situation when I changed the plugs and wires on my vette. One plug resisted all reasonable efforts. Engine was cold so I use a breaker bar and applied incremental amounts of force until it worked loose. But, I nearly had a heart attack when the plug snapped in half (the ceramic top plus embedded rod sheared at metal body location). As it worked out, all was fine...the remainder of the plug remained intact. That was one plug that definitely did not have anti-seize compound. All the best.

vettenuts

Per the service manual, the motor must be COLD!!! Big warning in the manual about removing from a hot motor.

Is this a problem with one plug, or all? If all, start with number 3 since it's relatively easy to reach with a straight extension. The do come out a little hard. I changed some recently on a 97 and they "squeeked" on the way out, but they did come out without damage. Is there any chance that they have prevously been out? If a factory install, they will be covered with a varnish that will make them hard to turn. Don't forget, the compression seal is at the top of the threads, not the bottom.

Good luck, hope you get them OK.

Also, my thought on the dealer. They care a lot less about your car then you do, food for thought. Any Vette specialy shops around?

CrazyMagMan

Mine were a major pain. I had a 3/8 drive ratchet with a large socket and 1/2 inch breaker bar slid over the end of the ratchet in order to get the leverage to get them loose. I had no problems with them getting stripped and none were cross threaded, but holy crap they were tight.
Good luck!!

JR_VETTE

:nonod: