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Question says it all. i've looked in the C5 tech section, but do not find anything about how to flush the cooling system. I know it's fairly easy on the C4's... Is it a horrific and scary on the C5's? Can anybody point me in the way of a good article or thread about C5 cooling systems!? Thank you for your time! :cheers:
According to the 1998 Shop Manual. Open radiator drain fowl, located at bottom of radiator on passenger side. Note it only turns 90 degrees counterclockwise ad then can pull out. Open overflow cap. If clean no flush required. To flush use ONLY clean water, perferably distilled water. Fill and run and drain until clean. Tighten drain plug. Then put one half of capacity (about 6 quarts) of Dexi Cool antifreeze in, fill to bottom of overflow cap with water. Run one minute with cap off. Fill to 1/2 inch over cold water mark, tighthen cap and alternate reving to 3,000 rpm for 30 seconds until you reach 210 F. Turn off engine, open overflow cap slowly, add water to 1/2 inch over cold mark. Tighthen cap and rev again until 210 is reached. Shut off engine, add water until 1/2 inch over cold mark. You're done ! Failure to follow this can result in air or underfilled radiator and engine damage.
I suggest bringing your vette to a shop that will use a machine to exchange your old coolant with new. The advantage is 1) no spill, 2) complete exchange of old coolant with new and 3) no chance of air pockets forming.
I have learned it's important to use only distilled water to mix the coolant to the required coolant/water ratio. The minerals and chemicals found in tap water will corrode aluminum with time. Also, keep the change intervals much less than the stated 5yr/100k miles on the Dexcool bottle. The stuff will sludge and changes pH levels with time.
I prefer doing things myself, then I know they are done right.
Where do they "tie in machine"? If they have to loosen hoses WATCH OUT, they could break some fittings. These new radiators and tanks are plastic and rubber hoses stick to them over time (I always cut them off when changing hoses).
I just changed my 1998 after 5 years and 59,000 miles. Old fluid looked perfect (you could not tell by looking that fluid was changed, get my drift?). I got out almost all the coolant and only spilled drops. Easiest and cleanest coolant change I ever did. Only problem is that I broke pin on drain plug, thinking that it had to be screwed out, that cost $5.28 for a new one from NAPA.
I agree with use of distilled water, especially with Dexi Cool.
don't you also have to bleed the system, in order to avoid air pockets??
If you're thinking of the bleed valves like in the LT-1 systems, then no, you don't have any (at least to my knowledge) to mess with. LS-1 engine design did away with the reverse cooling design of the LT-1s.
There are two different things. What are you trying to do exactly, just flush the radiator or do the whole coolant system.
If you are going to do te whole coolant system take it to a good shop and let them hook the machine to it. This will completely travel throughout the whole coolant of the car, thermastat, reserve coolant, hoses and your water pump as well. It cost me $79.00 that is because I took it to those Quick stop lube places.
If you want the radiator just drained and refilled do that yourself.