boldtx

I currently have AP Racing 6-Piston on the front and C6 Z06 front brakes on the rear. My question is I want to switch to the lightest brake setup I can. I had thought about just going back to the stock stuff but they are honestly not all that light. The car is used for 1/2 and Mile shootouts. Yes I know braking is an important part but I have over a mile at all these events to slow down so I am not concerned.

reactor2

The calipers aren't that heavy. I seem to remember my c6z calipers seemed lighter than the c5 calipers. What is heavy are those huge brake rotors. The C6z rotors must weigh twice that of the c5 rotors. Go carbon ceramic or drilled c5 rotors. Maybe even run the rear c5 calipers and rotors in the front?

493lszosix

I'm running the rear brakes and rotors on the front of my c5z, saved around 14-15 pounds over the stock front ones

TrackAire

I've done 1/2 mile runway races and here is what I've found.....horsepower and gearing are the key, especially for 1/2 runs. I've run with and without a 260 lb passenger and my speeds were the same. As long as you're getting a rolling start (usually 40 to 60 mph) then a hundred pounds up or down isn't going to make much difference.

But if you're starting from a dead stop (traditional drag race start), then yes, weight will make a difference.

I do know this, my Viper has 14" rotors and factory Brembo calipers and after 12 stops from 160 mph the rotors were pretty glazed since we had a short shut down area. I really would not want to have less braking from those speeds.

Just my 2 cents.

boldtx

Hey guys thanks for the replies. Other than the lightening the load issue. My biggest is I need to make my car more aerodynamic. Right now I have to run a 18x11 315 on the front and a 8x12 335 on the rear. Running smaller brakes will give me the ability to run a narrower tire and suck them in and help take away some drag. Also big issue is I want to run a taller tire on the rear. Right now at 198mph I have to shift into 6th which is a couple hundred yards from the finish line. This shift is killing my mile speed.

0Todd TCE

Certainly nothing wrong with the AP parts. But if you're after weight savings be prepared to give up some durability and to a degree; safety. I've built a number of drag only kits for guys who are using them in drag only conditions where shut down and application are not a as severe as even the street brakes. But with weight reduction comes strength.

If you use the car as a daily in addition to the mile runs you may find yourself on a slippery slope.

If you plan to lighten the brakes then also lighten the car. That will place less strain on the parts you move to. Brake demands being based on both speed and weight.

Moving to a lighter 2pc hat/rotor in the rear would help. Changing out the current (and rear) rotors to narrower pars would help immensely. One time stopping demands like what you have are doable on lighter "rings" just not good for 30min sessions....

Doing some of that will require both caliper centering changes and pad spacers to compensate for the width change so more complexity....

Or of course you can pull all that off and start from scratch. Just all in how you want to go about things. And how much it's worth to you. Pretty sure you're in the class $100/pound territory or more.

Some of this he could be done to the one piece rotor out back. Keep in mind that benefits or rotational mass reduction are not as great at this point but if you're really after total savings you take what you can get.

boldtx

Well just weighed the car and with me in it 3320. I weigh 170 so total car weight is 3150 with half tank of gas. I am hopeful that I can crack 3000 pounds with removal of passenger race seat, smaller wheels and tires lighter brakes and sway bars and a few other tricks.