Definitive answer for losing the clutch pressure
07-28-2017, 07:23 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Definitive answer for losing the clutch pressure
Hey guy, When I shift hard lose all pressure in my clutch. I have to pump it back up to get it to work right again. I've done a bunch a research and *think* I need to get the Tick master cylinder to correct it. I'm just looking for anyone else who may have gone through this already, and can give some input. I'd hate to spend $300, learn how to replace it, swap it, and still have the same problem.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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JacobVrrm123 (07-29-2017)
07-29-2017, 05:18 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Hey guy, When I shift hard lose all pressure in my clutch. I have to pump it back up to get it to work right again. I've done a bunch a research and *think* I need to get the Tick master cylinder to correct it. I'm just looking for anyone else who may have gone through this already, and can give some input. I'd hate to spend $300, learn how to replace it, swap it, and still have the same problem.
Thanks!
Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
2_hotty (07-30-2017)
07-30-2017, 12:21 PM
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
Just put something different on there fooling with an old one over and over isnt worth it. 
08-04-2017, 01:24 PM
#5
Very very common issue. And the results vary person to person.
Ranger method for keeping the fluid semi-clean helps a bit. Didn't fix it.
I installed the Tick clutch master cylinder. Didn't fix it.
I installed the LPE clutch pedal return spring. Didn't fix it.
Next step will be a new upgraded clutch, new slave, and a remote bleeder. I fully expect that to solve it.
There are also some threads about adding ventilation holes (sometimes called speed holes) to the bell housing. (There are already some small vents at the bottom). Concept is help reduce heat and let the clutch dust blow out.
I have a buddy with an e36 bmw with an LS/t56 swap. Adding the speed holes in the bell housing fixed the problem for him. It was a track car... upgraded clutch, remote bleeder, etc.
Ranger method for keeping the fluid semi-clean helps a bit. Didn't fix it.
I installed the Tick clutch master cylinder. Didn't fix it.
I installed the LPE clutch pedal return spring. Didn't fix it.
Next step will be a new upgraded clutch, new slave, and a remote bleeder. I fully expect that to solve it.
There are also some threads about adding ventilation holes (sometimes called speed holes) to the bell housing. (There are already some small vents at the bottom). Concept is help reduce heat and let the clutch dust blow out.
I have a buddy with an e36 bmw with an LS/t56 swap. Adding the speed holes in the bell housing fixed the problem for him. It was a track car... upgraded clutch, remote bleeder, etc.
08-04-2017, 05:45 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2008
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18
Get a new one from the parts store and flush all the fluid. The Tick won't fix your issues.
If you still have issues you may need to replace the slave cylinder and add a speed bleeder.
The Tick piece is needed if the distance between the slave and the pressure plate fingers is greater than stock and you didn't bother to do the measurement and shim the slave during a clutch install.
If you still have issues you may need to replace the slave cylinder and add a speed bleeder.
The Tick piece is needed if the distance between the slave and the pressure plate fingers is greater than stock and you didn't bother to do the measurement and shim the slave during a clutch install.