Rover01

Great advice guys! The shocks are great, seems like point and shoot on the steering now even breaking seems better, yet not really any additional harshness for the ride. I pushed a little through some back country curves and its "on rails" as the saying goes.

As for the plugs and wires... short sample set but here's my impressions by butt dyno.

I didn't expect much but I have to say throttle response is better, litterally got accidental wheels pulling out of the garage. I reset DIC and appear to be getting 2-3 MPG better but thats yet to be seen as an apples to apples comparison longer term.

BTW, Dealing with Cultrag was great, good prices and good service

You guys deal out great advice on a regular basis and I wanted to get back with results and say thanks!

tgucc

If you have headers do not buy the GM red wires. After reading threads I did just that and ended up with back firing and bumpy idle. I switched to Accel ceramic boot wires. Back fire is gone and idle is smooth.

ArtClassShank

Were they damaged during the install? A perfectly good wire doesn't degrade overnight with a new exhaust component. I have read about heat degrading plug wires over time, and headers lacking heatshields that will accelerate the degradation. But the only way I can see that happening quickly is if the plug wires are literally resting directly on the header.


How long did they last? Honestly interested as headers are next up for me.

tgucc

On two of the wires the boots were in direct contact with the headers. The Accels have ceramic boots that are longer in length than the GM reds.

Bill Curlee

I have 1 3/4" stainlessworks headers. I have the GM Read Wires and they have been in service for years. NO ISSUES!

Of course, ANY rubber boot or wire no matter what brand, IF they contact the HOT header will burn and arch and cause issues.

If you have direct wire/boot contact, correct it or fins something that will NOT burn.

BC