race21

I have c5 that I think may have the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel. The car has been sitting for about a year, with part of that time being outside. I just got the car running over the weekend. I went to put it gear and it wouldn't go into gear with motor running. I can shift it into any gear not running. I did try to start it in 1st and car lurched forward, so I think that the clutch is engaged or more like stuck. The car was driven up until it was parked, so it doesn't make much sense that something happened while it was sitting (like slave or master cylinder going bad). Fluid was dirty, but still full. Pedal feels ok. I read few things online to try. Just curious if anyone thinks this is my problem and if so, any ideas on breaking it loose. Thanks.

Bill Curlee

The only way that you are going to get some factual information is to pull the lower bell housing inspection cover off the bell housing. My guess is that your clutch disk splined shaft is rusted to the Torque Tube input shaft splined shaft.

If it were me, I would pull the lower bell housing inspection cover off the bell housing and have someone depress the clutch and see if the pressure plate fingers are being moved by the slave/throwout bearing.

You can spray some PB Blaster on the clutch disk splined shaft and the Torque Tube input shaft splined shaft and work the clutch to see if you can free it up. When your done, spray the entire clutch/pressure plate/flywheel down with brake parts cleaner.

Bill

race21

Thanks for the info. It makes sense that it's a rust issue. I read elsewhere how people have jacked up the rear end so the wheels are just off the ground. Put trans in a high gear. Depress clutch and keep depressed. Start vehicle and once the rear wheels are moving, start applying the brakes. This helps break the rust bond.

Not sure if that would work in this case or not. It could be that the clutch disc is not actually rusted to the flywheel like Bill said, but on the torque tube input shaft. It just happens to be in the "engaged position with flywheel". The clutch does appear to be engaged at the moment since the car will lurch forward when started in gear.

race21

Some additional info. I mentioned in first post that the fluid was filthy. I did the turkey baster deal and put in new fluid. Pumped pedal about 50 times and the fluid still looked new. So it seems that the fluid is not being circulated, which may further suggest something is stuck down below. Clutch pedal isn't stiff or hard to push and no signs of fluid leaking under steering column or from bellhousing.

Bill Curlee

Sounds like you are in need of a new clutch master cylinder. If the slave isn't moving the clutch peddle should be LOCKED SOLID and unable to be depressed.

Replacing the master is the cheapest and easiest thing that you can do right now.

Give that a shot and see what turns out.

REMEMBER,, there is a fender well access panel in the drivers side inner fender (rear of the fender well) that you can remove to gain access to that master cyl. You need to remove the wheel to gain proper access.

Bill

race21

Ya, that was my first thought. I already ordered one yesterday actually. I had my dad pump the clutch while I felt the master cylinder and could feel movement inside of it. Not that it means much. Clutch pedal does return without any problems. Doesn't stick to the floor.

How would a bad master cylinder contribute to the clutch feeling like it's engaged at the moment?

huesmann

I dunno; my clutch failure was very similar to the OP—pedal could be operated, but the clutch wasn't disengaging from the FW. When I popped the inspection cover it looked like some of the fingers on the PP weren't moving with the others. I replaced everything: master, slave, FW, PP, disc.

huesmann

TBH, I think it's a mechanical issue more than a hydraulics issue. Unless the hydraulic failure is a very slow leak, the pedal wouldn't return fully.

But to answer your question: if any of the hydraulic system (including master) is failing, it could prevent the slave from pressing fully against the PP fingers, which would prevent the PP from releasing the clutch disc.

race21

Ya, I'd don't know the history of the car. Other then it was being driven up until it was parked for bcm/wiring issues. I just keep going back to the fact that it's been sitting for about a year now. I would think it is more mechanical as well. Such as being physically stuck or a pressure plate issue like you suggested. Hard to believe that something in the clutch itself or hydraulic system would go bad from just sitting, though. Anything is possible I guess. Like I said there wasn't any leaks. I guess I'll just have pull off the inspection cover and take a look.

race21

Ok...updates. I jacked up the rear wheels off the ground. Started car in 5th gear. Hit the brakes and tires slowed. Turned car off. Started back up in neutral. Pushed clutch in and tried to shift to 1st and it worked. I thought awesome. It's fixed!

But not so fast. With wheels still up, I tried to shift to 1st with clutch depressed AND brake pedal depressed....wouldn't go. It would only go into gear while running when clutch is depressed, but not the brakes. So, I set it back down. Start car in neutral without foot on brake and attempt to shift to 1st gear. It won't go in, but as I move the shifter towards 1st, the car starts to inch forward.

It seems if there is any resistance when trying to shift into gear while running (ie. Brakes applied when rear wheels are in the air or car on the ground) it won't do shift.

The pedal felt extremely soft, but I'm not sure what's normal. I had already ordered a master cylinder, so I'll try that. Probably pull off the inspection cover as well.

I did the turkey baster thing again, pumped the pedal a bunch, but it just doesn't seem to be circulating the fluid.

Maybe it's just still stuck? Any ideas with the additional information? Thanks.

huesmann

Weird.

race21

Ya, I actually jacked the rear back up and can shift into any gear WITHOUT even pressing in the clutch while engine is running. Just as long as I don't push the brake pedal it will shift (with rear tires in air). The clutch pedal isn't doing anything. So again it appears that the clutch is still engaged. I'm just gonna remove the lower inspection cover and take a look.

Moto One

Any though to it being the pilot bearing seized.

just two cents.

Mark.

huesmann

The pilot bearing being seized would cause it to make a helluva racket, but I don't think it'd stop it entirely. The brake and clutch should be entirely separate, unless there's a problem with the clutch starter lockout switch or something?

DonziDan

Hello Race,

I know this is an old thread - Did you get this sorted out? I have the same problem and hoping there is a fix without removing the transmission/torque tube.

Bill Curlee

First,, Make sure that the clutch hydraulics are full of fluid, properly bled and functioning properly.. Next,, Jack the rear wheels off the ground safely, chock the fronts. Start the engine and allow the rear wheels to turn/rotate. Run the RPM UP SOME, depress the clutch and while the clutch is depressed and use the brakes to shock the drive line and see if that is enough to unstick the clutch

redzg

Shame on me for not looking at the dates.

DonziDan

I Tried Bill's recommendation - rear wheels off the ground, started the car in gear, a bit of speed, then applied the brakes numerous times in both forward and reverse with brakes and emergency brakes. No luck.

Next the flywheel inspection cover was removed. It took a heat gun to get the exhaust to manifold bolts loose and still one broke. Lucky it was the easiest to get to so with patience and more heat, it was removed. Once the inspection cover was off everything looked perfectly normal, reasonably clean and not all rusted. My wife actuated the clutch and it worked normally and to my surprise the pressure plate was releasing from the clutch disk. I took a BIG screw driver to pry the clutch from the flywheel. My second and bigger happier surprise, the clutch came off the flywheel with nearly no force.The smallest screw driver would have worked fine. Barring the engine over the clutch was pried loose in 3 spots and it turned freely. The clutch disk was rotated while my wife slowly release the pedal until it just started to drag. The disk was then turned about 4 more revolutions and feels great. Everything was blown out with compressed air and again no surprises.

Hopefully it will stay healed...