Help remote diagnosing brother's C5 transmission??
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Help remote diagnosing brother's C5 transmission??
My brother thinks his manual transmission "blew" on him in the car he just recently bought. It's a 2000 corvette coupe (not a Z06), has about 80k miles and is relatively stock (aftermarket exhaust and intake is all the mods that are on it besides appearance stuff). He said he was driving it the other day and let the clutch out to go and it popped and all he gets now is "a terrible grinding sound" He's not really mechanically inclined beyond basic maintenance and bolt-ons so I've offered to help swap his trans if that's it...
Anyone know how can I verify that it's the trans and not the rear end / diff? From what I understand - it ginds something terrible when releasing the clutch in any gear and even neutral. When the engine is off the trans is "locked up" with the shifter in neutral (Won't roll unless the clutch is pressed in then it rolls just fine??) With those symptoms I assume something inside the trans is broke and it's terminal - don't know if there are common/easy fixes (i.e. he popped a shift fork and it's not changing the gears properly and it just needs to be replaced?) I've rebuilt plenty of automatics and a few 4-speeds as well as a bunch of T5's but never got into a T56 - are there any common problems that would cause these symptoms? Anything to inspect / check / test while he's got the car at home?
Anyone know how can I verify that it's the trans and not the rear end / diff? From what I understand - it ginds something terrible when releasing the clutch in any gear and even neutral. When the engine is off the trans is "locked up" with the shifter in neutral (Won't roll unless the clutch is pressed in then it rolls just fine??) With those symptoms I assume something inside the trans is broke and it's terminal - don't know if there are common/easy fixes (i.e. he popped a shift fork and it's not changing the gears properly and it just needs to be replaced?) I've rebuilt plenty of automatics and a few 4-speeds as well as a bunch of T5's but never got into a T56 - are there any common problems that would cause these symptoms? Anything to inspect / check / test while he's got the car at home?
#2
Le Mans Master
From your description it sounds like the tranny is the problem. If it were me, I would talk with RPM Transmissions. If they agreed, I would pull it and ship it to them for repair. They WILL properly fix it. There may be someone locally in your area that could do it.
#3
Well since the trans and the rear end are essentially 1 unit and will have to be removed as a unit it's a moot point trying to speculate on the internet, pull it out and check.
Since you'll have the entire drivetrain from the rear of the engine to the rear of the car out, it's a good time for a new clutch and clutch hydraulics while your in there.
Since you'll have the entire drivetrain from the rear of the engine to the rear of the car out, it's a good time for a new clutch and clutch hydraulics while your in there.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Well since the trans and the rear end are essentially 1 unit and will have to be removed as a unit it's a moot point trying to speculate on the internet, pull it out and check.
Since you'll have the entire drivetrain from the rear of the engine to the rear of the car out, it's a good time for a new clutch and clutch hydraulics while your in there.
Since you'll have the entire drivetrain from the rear of the engine to the rear of the car out, it's a good time for a new clutch and clutch hydraulics while your in there.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
What are the symptoms when those go out? I can't imagine that even if the driveshaft failed it would cause the symptom of the 'lockup' in neutral since the trans is behind the driveshaft and would de-couple it. Or are you saying to replace them as PM while the torque tube is out?
#7
What are the symptoms when those go out? I can't imagine that even if the driveshaft failed it would cause the symptom of the 'lockup' in neutral since the trans is behind the driveshaft and would de-couple it. Or are you saying to replace them as PM while the torque tube is out?