Mastersorbet

I thought I shared my experience here. Back in February I bought to what I believed to be a tick unit from Camarohaws of ebay. At first it seems good, quick shifting, positive dis-engagement, very good overall. Some time ago I noticed some clutch drag and the car creeping forward very slightly with the clutch pedal fully depressed in first gear, (same thing reverse). I have occasional hard shifting into first gear and into reverse as well into 6th gear at high speed. I guess I don't need to say this but stay away from the hawks performance master cylinder. Today I discovered the huge mistake I made back in February by doing some research and finding the bulletin and all the information on the different forums, not to mention the alert on the tick website. I also know it's the master cylinder because I had no issue like this prior to switching form the oem one and the clutch it's about a year old and the slave cylinder is genuine gm. I hope this helps preventing anyone to be fooled the way I was. Here is a link to the one I bought for reference purpose. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291072225373?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

StrangelovesM6Vert

Ticks uses the same master cylinder as Camarohawk and there is really no difference between the 2.
I had one since my pedal would wind up on the floor after the SC install.
It was way too stiff even after making my own coupler so I could run the factory return spring.
I replaced it with the 2004 Z06 master
and am very happy with it and it's stock pedal pressure.

Mastersorbet

So you had a camarohawk master cylinder? I understand that they both use tilton master cylinders. What I'm having an issue is with all the chatter that I have read online and the discussion including the both point of views among the two manufactures, both Tick and Hawks third gen. If the quality of the components is the same, then I don't have anything to worry about in regards to the master cylinder, but if there is a difference between one and the other, lesser quality on the hawk's one, then there is an issue. So after all the reading I've done it's a 50/50 to me in regards of the quality, however, form the business stand point what Hawks did was wrong.

Bill Curlee

Does your master have an adjustable linkage?? If so, lengthen it until you get proper disengagement. Have you also tried to bleed it again.

I have the TICK Master and it took a while to get the bleed perfect.

Once it was properly adjusted and bled, it been trouble free and shift excellent.

Bill

Mastersorbet

It does have an adjustable linkage, the pump is a tilton, in fact, it's extended as long as possible while maintaining contact with the start switch when fully depressed in. I've bleed it multiple times, I've been doing the turkey baster way but today I did the full bleed and used Lucas dot4 fluid for a full re-fill but have not driven the car yet after the bleed. I've been using dot4 for a while and it made it a bit better, not so intermittent but from time to time it drags a little bit with the clutch engaged. Once I drive it again, I'll post more info.

Bill Curlee

Who installed the clutch?

Did thy install any SHIM behind the slave cyl?

What do you mean by the turkey baster method?

"I've bleed it multiple times, I've been doing the turkey baster way but today I did the full bleed"

When you blead, do you see any air?

If you have the linkage adjusted out that far, either it isnt fully blead or the slave is too far from the pressure plate.

Bill

Mastersorbet

Here is an update. Today I drove the car and by having the master cylinder with the linkage too far extended, it will cause worst clutch drag than before after driving it for a bit. Looks like too much of a good thing it can be a bad thing.

The turkey baster is basically coming with a big syringe and sucking all the fluid out of the reservoir, cleaning it and adding new fluid.

Today I did a re-adjustment and found a "sweet spot for the clutch linkage".

During bleeding, no air came out so air should not be an issue.

Unfortunately I did not installed the clutch so I'm not sure if the shim was installed or not.

StrangelovesM6Vert

I had only had my car 3 or 4 months and didn't know about Ticks until after I bought the Camarohawk on ebay.

I didn't like how stiff the Tilton master was so I made this connector to replace the one that came with it so I could run the factory spring.
It's adjustable but you have to remove it from the pedal to turn it which is not a big deal.
It was much better but not quite stock feel so I added a hardware store spring as well and it was as good as stock.

StrangelovesM6Vert

I replaced the Tildon because the extra hardware store spring was pulling the pedal a little off the stop, but not causing any clutch problems, but then started throwing a clutch circuit code (but only after a few months) and then the pedal would push back under high rpm 8 psi WOT shifts after I put on my bigger wheels and tires (which didn't break loose as easily) which was distracting.

I could have adjusted the rest switch I suppose but the pushback made me decide to try the Z06
master.

The Z06 master is better but the pedal still gets a little funky from back pressure at high RPM WOT shifts, seeming to momentarily lose range of disengagement but not on the floor and then quickly recovering.
Otherwise under less than total WOT high rpm shifts everything is fine so
since the clutch is stock but not done yet I'm not quite ready to drop the drivetrain
to add the Z06 slave. (and a new clutch while I'm there)

I have this connector and reverse Heim end (I didn't have a tap to match the Heim end that came with the master)

If anybody wants to run the stock spring they can PM me.

25.00 shipped