daytime lights
08-21-2014, 07:22 PM
#1
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daytime lights
So I bought the smoked lenses from a retailer. I replaced both housings, everything went smooth. My passenger side drl does not come on now. But when I roll my light control forward it works in the dim setting while my other lights are on. Roll the switch backwards and the passenger side goes out, not on.
08-22-2014, 09:53 AM
#7
"My Dad's a TV Repairman"
Pics!
08-22-2014, 11:44 AM
#8
Team Owner
The bulb has TWO filaments. One for parking lights (what you call "dim") and the other for turn signals AND DRL. Very possible the DRL/turn signal filament is broken/burned out.
Replace bulb. If that does not cure problem, (and BEFORE you reinstall the socket in to the housing), inspect the socket itself for poor/bad/no contact. Ensure there is voltage present at the socket.
C5 Corvettes are NOTORIOUS for frying or baking these bulb sockets due to the high heat from the bulb, not to mention melting the housings themselves which then leads to future problems.
I highly recommend doing away with the DRL function altogether by modifying your two DRL relays. Not hard to do and no error codes are generated.
HTH
Replace bulb. If that does not cure problem, (and BEFORE you reinstall the socket in to the housing), inspect the socket itself for poor/bad/no contact. Ensure there is voltage present at the socket.
C5 Corvettes are NOTORIOUS for frying or baking these bulb sockets due to the high heat from the bulb, not to mention melting the housings themselves which then leads to future problems.
I highly recommend doing away with the DRL function altogether by modifying your two DRL relays. Not hard to do and no error codes are generated.
HTH
08-22-2014, 03:14 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
I have similar issue w/ my left front.
When I pull the connector and hang the bulb out the air duct, both DRL and turn signal work.
Jiggle the bulb/socket around, both go out. Jiggle again, back on.
reinstall in the housing, both go out.
signal hyperflash when the bulb is not lit, normal flash rate when lit.
Frustrating.
When I pull the connector and hang the bulb out the air duct, both DRL and turn signal work.
Jiggle the bulb/socket around, both go out. Jiggle again, back on.
reinstall in the housing, both go out.
signal hyperflash when the bulb is not lit, normal flash rate when lit.
Frustrating.
08-22-2014, 03:38 PM
#10
Team Owner
I have similar issue w/ my left front.
When I pull the connector and hang the bulb out the air duct, both DRL and turn signal work.
Jiggle the bulb/socket around, both go out. Jiggle again, back on.
reinstall in the housing, both go out.
signal hyperflash when the bulb is not lit, normal flash rate when lit.
Frustrating.
When I pull the connector and hang the bulb out the air duct, both DRL and turn signal work.
Jiggle the bulb/socket around, both go out. Jiggle again, back on.
reinstall in the housing, both go out.
signal hyperflash when the bulb is not lit, normal flash rate when lit.
Frustrating.
08-22-2014, 05:58 PM
#12
Team Owner
Courtesy of ajg1915:
Here is how to disable them permanently and it is reversible and does not affect the operation of any other lights.
1. In the passenger foot well, lower the front carpet.
2. Remove the foot panel.
3. Locate the IPEC (Instrument Panel Electrical Center) it looks like the fuse box next to the battery.
4. Remove the cover of the IPEC.
5. Turn it over and find the diagram of the components.
6. Locate relays 38 and 40. (38 controls the right DRL and 40 the left)
7. Pull each relay and carefully remove the cover.
8. Insert some type of insulator between the relay contacts (matchbook cover cardboard or the plastic from a coffee can lid works well) that you have cut to fit.
9. Replace relay cover, replace relay, replace IPEC cover, and replace the foot well.
10. DONE!!
The advantage here is:
1. No DRL bulbs constantly burning, generating heat and melting housings (and constantly burning out)
2. No DTC codes.
3. All other lighting functions remain normal.
4. Reversible at any time.
08-22-2014, 06:41 PM
#14
Team Owner
Courtesy of ajg1915:
An X-acto knife and/or a small flat blade screwdriver can be your friend in removing the relays and removing their covers. No cutting, soldering, or any electrical work involved.
The advantage here is:
1. No DRL bulbs constantly burning, generating heat and melting housings (and constantly burning out)
2. No DTC codes.
3. All other lighting functions remain normal.
4. Reversible at any time.
An X-acto knife and/or a small flat blade screwdriver can be your friend in removing the relays and removing their covers. No cutting, soldering, or any electrical work involved.
The advantage here is:
1. No DRL bulbs constantly burning, generating heat and melting housings (and constantly burning out)
2. No DTC codes.
3. All other lighting functions remain normal.
4. Reversible at any time.
08-22-2014, 06:53 PM
#15
Team Owner
The relays may be a bit tight in their sockets, so that's why I recommend using a small ("pocket tweaker size") flat-blade screwdriver to work around the sides and gently twist or pry the relay up from the bottom. Take your time and keep prying and they will finally come far enough out so you can grab them with your fingers. If you use a small pair of pliers after prying them up a bit, be careful not to squeeze them from the sides, but from opposite corners ONLY. That way you won't crush them. Rock them back and forth a bit while pulling.
I used a pair of small diagonal cutters to cut the insulators to slip in between the contacts. I used cardboard from a matchbook cover, but like Tony says you can use some soft plastic like a coffee can lid. The insulators need to be approx. 1/8" square. The relay contacts are down on one side of the relay and the contacts are already open, so just insert the insulator between them. The relay cover actually helps hold the insulator in place when you put it back on.
I used a pair of small diagonal cutters to cut the insulators to slip in between the contacts. I used cardboard from a matchbook cover, but like Tony says you can use some soft plastic like a coffee can lid. The insulators need to be approx. 1/8" square. The relay contacts are down on one side of the relay and the contacts are already open, so just insert the insulator between them. The relay cover actually helps hold the insulator in place when you put it back on.
08-22-2014, 08:42 PM
#17
Team Owner
08-22-2014, 09:10 PM
#18
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I don't mind the rapid flash. Doesn't bother me I'm just going to leave that as is. The relays were stuck on pretty tight but came out easily by pulling downward on the top to break it loose.