Air in Clutch Vs Bad Master?
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Air in Clutch Vs Bad Master?
My clutch setup had been pretty trouble-free for some years now outside the occasional need to re-clutch it to get into 1st.
The other day I was grabbing 3rd (nothing aggressive) and the clutch suddenly felt notably lighter and took more pedal to make gear changes. I also cannot get into reverse now.
It seems like a hydraulic issue, but I'd like to be certain how to diagnose these two issues before taking this car apart twice.
Thanks in Advance!
The other day I was grabbing 3rd (nothing aggressive) and the clutch suddenly felt notably lighter and took more pedal to make gear changes. I also cannot get into reverse now.
It seems like a hydraulic issue, but I'd like to be certain how to diagnose these two issues before taking this car apart twice.
Thanks in Advance!
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Ouch, I'll admit to being disappointed in how dirty I've let the fluid get. So the question is can a fluid change fix my issue?
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Just did the fluid change. No change in symptoms. Still no reverse and resistance to shifting in every gear.
I believe I installed a Mcleod adjustable master about 6yrs ago. Would adjusting this be an option? I'm sure it's still a Band-Aid, but I'm no expert on this issue.
Is the next step?
1) Remove headers/etc and bleed system?
2) Change Master?
3) Change Slave?
4) Adjust shifter gate/postion (doesn't seem like the issue)?
I believe I installed a Mcleod adjustable master about 6yrs ago. Would adjusting this be an option? I'm sure it's still a Band-Aid, but I'm no expert on this issue.
Is the next step?
1) Remove headers/etc and bleed system?
2) Change Master?
3) Change Slave?
4) Adjust shifter gate/postion (doesn't seem like the issue)?
Last edited by BQuicksilver; 08-17-2014 at 03:38 PM.
#5
Le Mans Master
I think you need to remove the clutch inspection cover and see what happens when someone depresses the clutch to see if you get adequate separation. The FSM does not provide this gap for some reason unknown to the common man. I would suggest it be about .035 inches.
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Good advice Dadaroo, and probably the right next step.
Last edited by BQuicksilver; 08-23-2014 at 09:52 PM.
#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I had a PP get loose a month after a well-known tuner here worked on my car. It made quite a racket before I tore it all down.
Is there any way to check the master cylinder first? I'd be pretty bummed if I went to bleed (I have LT headers and no remote bleeder) and realized it was the master.
Is there any way to check the master cylinder first? I'd be pretty bummed if I went to bleed (I have LT headers and no remote bleeder) and realized it was the master.
#9
Le Mans Master
You can remove the master and bench test it. Of course having no back pressure could affect the results. After bench testing if not sure then you can just replace the master. There may be rebuild kits out there too, not sure.
#10
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2009
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St. Jude Donor '14
Unless a piece of friction material came off the disc and is trapped, I doubt you have a problem with the clutch itself. Does it engage smoothly? Did you check the boot on the back of the master for signs of fluid leakage? Was the fluid level low?
The only way air would get in would be for fluid to get out. I suggest replacing the clutch master and installing a remote bleeder. Flush the fluid again first to get as much out of the slave so not to send contaminates into the new master.
The only way air would get in would be for fluid to get out. I suggest replacing the clutch master and installing a remote bleeder. Flush the fluid again first to get as much out of the slave so not to send contaminates into the new master.
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Belleville Mich.
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Unless a piece of friction material came off the disc and is trapped, I doubt you have a problem with the clutch itself. Does it engage smoothly? Did you check the boot on the back of the master for signs of fluid leakage? Was the fluid level low?
The only way air would get in would be for fluid to get out. I suggest replacing the clutch master and installing a remote bleeder. Flush the fluid again first to get as much out of the slave so not to send contaminates into the new master.
The only way air would get in would be for fluid to get out. I suggest replacing the clutch master and installing a remote bleeder. Flush the fluid again first to get as much out of the slave so not to send contaminates into the new master.
Change out the M/C/
Drain/clean the reservoir & it's line.
Bleed the complete clutch MC, reservoir & lines.
Being that you have long tubes, it would be very difficult to add a remote bleeder.
If the new master & bleed doesn't work, then prepare for a tear down/inspection.
Then would be the best time to add a remote bleeder.
Good luck.
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yeah, I don't think the clutch itself is an issue at this time, and the engagement is smooth, though a lot softer and lower now....to the point that reverse is effectively locked out. The car is parked so I don't damage the tranny.
When you guys say "flush the fluid" you just mean the ranger turkey baster method?
The master is a McCleod adjustable installed ~6yrs ago.
When you guys say "flush the fluid" you just mean the ranger turkey baster method?
The master is a McCleod adjustable installed ~6yrs ago.
#13
Shifter / linkage loose or broken? I'm thinking the clutch doesn't care about reverse. But the shifter/linkage and trans dose.
But if the clutch feel different. Then it's probably there.
Good news is the masters are cheep and easy.
Bad news is the slave is a pain!
I've had mine out twice this year.
But if the clutch feel different. Then it's probably there.
Good news is the masters are cheep and easy.
Bad news is the slave is a pain!
I've had mine out twice this year.
Last edited by Medic!; 11-09-2014 at 12:23 PM.
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
At least you don't have LT headers, but yeah still not a blast to do.
I agree an alignment issue is a possibility, but the clutch suddenly had a very different (softer) feel when the problem started. Only hydraulics could explain that change.
I agree an alignment issue is a possibility, but the clutch suddenly had a very different (softer) feel when the problem started. Only hydraulics could explain that change.
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Peeked down there this evening, a fair amount of rust under the master inside the car. Can I be safe to suspect the master? Looking back, it was making a "squoosh" (sorry, best I could do) sound as I depressed it occasionally.