Rob Petyo

Can someone give me a "driveability" issue that seems to be EVERYONE's big issue here ... a BIG donkey cam WTF?

There has been NOBODY here with 500+ to the tires saying they have a driveability issue ONLY the people who have LESS than 500 say there is an issue and I want to know HOW THEY ALL KNOW THIS without having done it - all saying they stopped their build because of it

My 98 drives like it's on rails and runs like a BIG dog. Maybe they are doing something wrong?

NemesisC5

500 RWHP is just a number goal, when you're at 500 RWHP you'll likely want more. If you're wanting to mod your existing bottom end you can see 500 RWHP is a lofty goal where everything will have to be optimized. If you're open to starting from a new short block it will be much easier and likely similar in cost but with added benefits of more torque, better drive-ability and more HP to the rear wheels. Most people that have made 500 RWHP in an LS6 build have moved on to larger displacement higher power builds. It was a goal that meant something to them. If 500 RWHP is your goal then put the pencil to the paper for a cost-benefit analysis. You could sell your running LS6 long-block for good money and have a great start. Plenty of options, just figure out what is the best for YOU.

Rob Petyo

I was doing a build with my original motor trying to learn how to race at Etown at the ECS Corvette Challenge when my motor blew...

When considering "what to do next" I asked Tommy at Anger Management Racing if he could build me a 10.50 pro index car because that was where the cars were that I wanted to race with. Using a lot of my existing bolt-ons for the new build.

Knowing that running a 10.50 in the heat of summer we installed a NANO N20 for a 50 shot to just NOT go below the 10.50 (whatever)...

I am not really sure exactly how much rwhp I have but I will say I feel you need at least that much to do this:

edit:
(there was a stock bottom end 346 auto going 10.2X's)

It has a few more things going on currently to go faster with a 346 and will need to be tuned on a dyno this time so I will know shortly, this IS my daily driver on race gas

I know of some who have gotten over 500 with 342 heads btw

Sigforty

My 383 has a 244-250 cam with a 112 LSA and some high lift lobes. I will say driveability is all dependent on the tune. You need a real good tune who will spend time getting the little things right. Even with the tune my tuner did I have have done some little tweaks to get it right. There are just so many things that can happen a tuner might not see everything.

My car started off running decent, but since has a really good driving tune. My biggest complaint is always traffic, but it is more of the clutch in and out I have to do not the tune.

LSOHOLIC

Here is my setup from last year....stock bottom end LS6, 243 heads and pump gas (QuikTrip 91oct). Tuned and dynoed at True Street in Texas (dyno jet). The graph is corrected and at the time had 4.10's in....it dynoed roughly 2-3% higher with a 3.42 gear. This combo had a medium sized cam 23x/24x.....
Notice the rpm I pulled it to....can't be scared...lol.





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I have since made a little more rwhp with the new changes (but still pump gas stock bottom end).


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Rob Petyo

my 383 has a smaller cam but has to be putting about the same rwhp to be able to run .05 faster that the 346 ci.. agree it's all about he tune and paying attention to ALL of the little things. can't wait for my new (Hp) computer @ LSOHOLIC you better come "ready"

again, the idea was to use the "stuff" that I had instead of going with a bigger motor and having to buy new again.

zeevette

No offense meant, LSOHOLIC, but, your dyno chart is just as likely to prove dyno/operator inconsistency.

LSOHOLIC

I'm no dyno know it all.....whats fishy ??
In your opinion....??


Please shed some light on your thoughts. ...


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Rob Petyo

Maybe zeevette can join us in the FALL!!

We're are preparing to put our cars up to a challenge @ Atco in November

Toque

Sean has been tuning my car since 2006.
Back when he worked for LG's and now that he works for True Street.
Great guy !

Very nice numbers !

Toque

zeevette

Thanks! I'm sure it'd be a great time, and a great time for a cross-country road trip.

RonSSNova

Big difference in driveability between a stalled auto and a stick.
The converter hides a lot! A clutch hides nothing.

As far as having 500 and wanting more? Ding ding ding!
Winner.

My turbo 5.3 nova gets flat scary and is about 700 rwhp now. As soon as I get it leaving harder, I'm going to turn it up.
It's going 144 in the 1/4 now. I want 150. Compared to a C5, it's aero challenged.....

Ron

123sugey

Great heads and qualified cam, full bolt ons, Harrop intake and awesome tuner. Don't forget the $$$.
There are "large" cam street cars that you can drive across country, cruise in 6th and idle in traffic.

LSOHOLIC

While mine is not a daily driver, its not because of the "drivability" assumptions in this thread. I drove my car to Memphis (14hr round trip) for a race, no issues.
Just like it has been said 1000 time before, its in the tune and car combination. Mine idles at 900rpm and has never, I repeat never over heated or gave me problems...hell...she won't break 190* sitting in traffic.

And yes Toque....Sean is a great tuner and guy as well as Clint, will be back at True Street next month for some "testing" of parts.

I will say it again, n/a power is not the cheapest way to go....lol. I just spent over $3500 to make and additional 35rwhp....its a sickness I tell ya !!

OP, good luck with your setup and if you have any questions, fire away.

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Blackkaz04

Why not supercharge it? The drivability and simplicity is so much better than trying to crank out 500 rwhp NA.

Honestly, if you already have a c5z and want to dump that much money into it, I'd sell the car and buy a c6z.

Rob Petyo

Because "we" are not all the same... You can supercharge your car and I wouldn't question you why you didn't stay N/A. Honestly, I don't think we went with na builds because we liked our cars less than those that go FI.

CTD

I touched the 500rw if I remember @ 432 torque. If you see a dyno runs exceeding 435 rw ftlbs I would question the dyno. That's about the maximum these motor's are capable of building torque wise, hp is just a calculation from their. So how well the combination will flow past peak torque & carry rpm is the HP calculation.

It's the detail to get their such as the EWP & under drive. The EWP is nice from the aspect of being able cool down between runs looking at your avatar.

I followed Tony Mamo's recipe for 475rw years back. When he did the cylinder heads for mine there was a few more tricks he had learned, I went with a bit more camshaft that is still considered small by many. The first time we dyno'd after the build it came up short so I went away & worked on a few more details. I started my HPT journey from that first dyno experience. Killed the stock clutch within 3 tanks of gas Installed the LG Big 3" exhaust, figured out the first dyno WB was off about nearly 1.0 AFR.

I eventually experienced unlucky #7, instigated by me, that is another story book. This is what I will say though, hands down that was most fun motor I've ever owned.

It's much easier to get 500rw today, the cylinder heads are better. The CNC programs for stock heads with some hand finishing from the right guys are in the game as well.

Exercising my excellent hind sight if I were to do it again, gears & a good clutch first & foremost. Long tube headers 1 3/4 with 3" mid & rear section. Fast 102 & 90mm TB with a good CAI. My guess is that I would have been very happy with that

LSOHOLIC

This thread is a good example of why I rarely post anything, especially tech info. Many on this site dont get it or think they do and try and discredit those who achieve what they were unable to do.

CTD....can you please explain your stance (in tech terms) on max 435rwtq ??

LoneStarFRC

Not to mention the fact that threads asked by the OP often get hijacked. Just like this one has.

RED99

Probably about the only way you will get 500 RWHP with a small inch motor is either spraying N20, Forced Induction, or have a extreme high 8000-9000 rpm motor built, which will be well over $20k easy and will run like crap at low idle around town.

But you can get close to 480 RWHP. I have seen some people making some good power with big cammed motors like the G5X3 from LG. But you may loose some low rpm driveabilty. I would call up some of these corvette speed shops that are listed on here and find a proven package that works.

Also, about the drive line. What really kills the manual cars is wheel hop. I would defiantly get a tranny to differential brace if you start running tires with a bite. And stay away from the caddy race lifters if you change a cam. I had one break, and you will find lots of other people having trouble with them. Either get some Morals or just LS7 lifters.