BoulderVette

First, I realize with some research I could probably put together this info, but I'm wondering with keeping the car NA what is a typical or suggested group of mods to get the C5 Z06/LS6 engine to be able to put 500 (or a little more) HP to the rear wheels? I know enough to think OK, open up the intake/exhaust along with cams/header's. I suspect that would put it into a least the mid 400's, but then beyond that how to coax yet another 50, possibly more out of it is going to require more.

So I'd be interested in hearing some suggestions, or better yet from some of you who have one that is in that range, or at least very close. The 500 is for no particular reason other than I just like to be able to say it puts that to the rear wheels. I'd of course like to put it use at a couple of our local road course tracks.

Additionally, I'm under the assumption, and that's exactly what it is, that the platform as is from the factory can support that much power, specifically of course the transmission and rear end component's. Is that assumption good? I'm not saying it might not be a good idea to make some upgrades in those area's, and I realize full well whether it can handle it or not it's going to be stress on them that will shorten their life as designed from the factory. One of GM's desires it putting together the package had to be that in be able to work and last in production form. As it has. The car is 10 years old and I've had absolutely no problems with it. Kudo's to GM for that.

One last tibit the car has 30,xxx miles. When the plugs were pulled recently there were no signs of detonation or any other type problems. There is also absolutely no knocking or pinging, and it still idles as smooth as when it rolled out of the factory. I tracked it, but always shifted short of redline, and have never over revved it.

TIA

wamara

Rob Petyo

see my sig for some "stuff"

Bill Curlee

I'm at the 450 RWHP mark on my 02 ZO6.. Stainless Works LT headers, 240/240 @ 610 lift and 114+4, Patriot Performance Stage 2 heads, Home ported FAST 90 with a home ported 90mm TB, Random Technologies High Flow Cats,

I had to install a SPEC Dual Disk Clutch, and I installed C6 ZO6 Differential internal up-grades (clutches and output shafts)

ECS Trans Differential Brace

3" stainless works cat back system with X pipe.

Oh,, yea... Good TUNING!

When you go to that level of power, you should be concerned with reliability. I had my MN12 converted to a TRANSZILLA T-60-60

Engine reliability up grades CADDY Racing lifters, Patriot gold springs, 42 lb/hr injectors, chromemoly push-rods, ARP Head Studs and ARP dampener bolt, Melling High High Volume oil pump, LS2 Timing chain, New lifter buckets,

That extra 50 HP will cost you a LOT. You will most likely need better heads and bigger CAM. Bigger cams can cause driveability issues.

Oh,, in an attempt to get some extra street traction, I'm running CCW 505a 11.5 inch wide rear rims. Still traction limited on street tires but it helps.


Good Luck

Bill

Toque

500 to the rear wheels on an LS1/LS6 motor is difficult and not very common.
From what I have read on here anyway.

I'm at 471/441 to the rear wheels with all the bells and whistles.
The only thing I'm missing is a big cam.
I chose more of a mid sized cam for more torque and drivability.
I could likely get another 20 or so with a BIG donkey cam, but I have no desire to ruin the great drivability I have now, and I don't want to sacrifice the great torque curve I have now.

If you want 500 to the wheels on an LS1/LS6 your best bet is a blower.

Toque

NukeC5

Either forced induction or a nice size stoker kit to get 500whp. Put a 427 crank in and cam it out if you want big N/A power.

Since I just did a nitrous kit and ditched my idea for a blower, I'm thinking a 427 with forged internals and turning up the shot is how I'm going to reach around 800 whp one day.

Bill Curlee

Both of the responses above are SPOT ON THE MARK!

Bill

RCFC5

Quickest way and the best driveability is a blower

zeevette

Same here. I hit 483/432 stock block,(NA) and I had custom made TF heads, and even an electric water pump. All these numbers have to be taken with a grain of salt, because dynos vary greatly. Go ahead and H/C it, and claim whatever you want.

BigGun

First thing you're going to need is a VERY FAT wallet. If money is no object then go for it.

RonSSNova

To even be remotely reliable at 500whp NA, you will have to replace pistons and rods. If doing that, the smart move would be to add a stroker crank to get to 383 CID.

Prob cheaper to purchase a good 408" short or long block set up with a 24 tooth crank reluctor that will simply drop in place of your 346.

I've always been of the opinion that it's best to shoot for a vehicle performance goal rather than a RWHP number.

Ron

TraviZ06

I hit 503rwhp with just my vortech and a tune. Everything else is stock.

Rob Petyo

I would argue about the driveability with 500 RWHP but it really doesn't matter, I think mine drives much better than most and thats all that really matters. I also have a mechanic who thinks like a trans guy and a few upgrades/changes to suspension including solid motor mounts and poli bushings ... either way, as some have indicated to already get ready to "open up your wallet"

chaase

My opinion is that if you want 500rwhp and N/A then you need a bigger engine. IMO, its just not worth it on stock displacement. You end up sacrificing too much when you could just stroke it. 500rwhp via FI is a cake walk.

Rob Petyo

my opinion is that you can do it with 346 ci and who know's if it's worth it... it was to me and I drive it everyday My other car has a stroked/forged (382 ci) LS-6 and I can tell you it will still cost. In my opinion it may be cheaper to get the power from the motor with FI but after that, drive train etc.. still would cost about the same, no?

NemesisC5

Old post but regarded as "the bible" for those wanting 500 rwhp from stock cube LS6. You don't have to have a "monster stick" and sacrifice a load of torque to get there IF you use the right parts and optimize the details...details...details

Toque's car above is an exceptional example of maintaining torque while producing big HP numbers from LS6.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...heads-cam.html

LSOHOLIC

I agree with Hotwheels and Nemesisc5....drives great and details, details. And yes.....big N/A hp/per cube is not the cheap way to make hp.....lots of $1000 parts to make an extra 10rwhp....lol.

.

Sigforty

383 striker is what I did to just get over the 500 rwhp number.

Wickd1

!st off RCFCF and TRAVIZ06 the man clearly stated he wants All Motor. Some of us still prefer shake and cam over wine ..But to the op,, just go build a 402 or 408 get pretty close to s/c power and trq All motor.The car wont be enjoyable anymore if you build a ls6 with 500 at the wheels and sure wont get close to 500 trg. N/A i have 503/476 at the wheels. I drive it anywhere. And i get 27mpg and i make noise when i coast ..lol lol
Good Luck with Build

LoneStarFRC

Cubic inches, good heads and a decent cam which, due to displacement, does NOT have to be too radical and ruin driveability. Ex: My cam is 224/246 .650/.660 115° LSA

HTH