'02 Z06: Frustrating Intermittent Starting Problems
08-19-2014, 07:48 PM
#21
Race Director
Roger that. I was inferring that despite the prospect of a PITA project, replacing the starter now hopefully accomplishes two things: it resolves this frustrating no-crank business and given that I will replace the problem unit with the design that requires two long bolts, I can breathe easier that I've saved myself from the broken block fiasco.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...the-block.html
08-19-2014, 07:49 PM
#22
Race Director
For everyone's information,
I too am experiencing this similar problem. Just wanted to add another symptom. When I turn the ignition switch, nothing happens except a humming sound which I believe is the electric fuel pump. After pushing the car backwards to load it up on a flatbed, then trying to start it again just for grins, it started right up. Also, could moisture on the ignition key cause a problem with sensing the chip in the key?
Carcrisis
I too am experiencing this similar problem. Just wanted to add another symptom. When I turn the ignition switch, nothing happens except a humming sound which I believe is the electric fuel pump. After pushing the car backwards to load it up on a flatbed, then trying to start it again just for grins, it started right up. Also, could moisture on the ignition key cause a problem with sensing the chip in the key?
Carcrisis
08-21-2014, 08:44 AM
#23
Instructor
Member Since: May 2014
Location: Hampton GA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-21-2014, 08:51 AM
#24
Instructor
Member Since: May 2014
Location: Hampton GA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New Thread
Don't hi jack someone elses thread. No harm in having your specific problem have its own thread. That way your exact symptoms can be associated with your problem.I also suggest that you pull and post any codes that your car has stored in your new thread..
Here is how to pull and post codes:
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Post ALL your codes including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. If you have any Unnnn codes then list the sensor under which the Unnnn code appears. For example 28-TCS U1016.
The same Unnnn codes can appear under multiple sensors and it is helpful to know which sensor the Unnnn code is associated with.
Advice taken, thanks for the great info on capturing codes.
Carcrisis
08-22-2014, 09:00 PM
#25
Instructor
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Ithaca NY
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The schematic that lionelhutz provided is the KEY to solving your issue.
The THEFT DETERRENT RELAY is the heart of the cranking sequence. There are two sides of the relay. The CONTROL side and the power output side.
That relay is in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the fire wall. The relay will have FOUR wires.
First check all THREE fuses located in the I/P Fuse box #51, #52 and # 14
When you have all the safety circuits completed and the key in CRANK/START you apply 12 VDC to the control side of the relay. The BCM ground the Yellow/black wire when all of the security requirements are met.
When the control side gets energized it allows the 60 AMP 12 VDC power to go to the starter SOLENOID and the starter will run and crank the engine.
Things to check:
FUSES!
Main connections on the starter solenoid (Clean/ tight and not damaged)
Battery connections clean and tight. Battery terminal torque 97-2003 C5 torque to = 11 ft/lbs
Theft Deterrent Relay bad?
Is the SECURITY light on the IPC extinguished when you have the ignition ON?? If the security light isn’t out, you can’t crank the engine.
The resistor pellet on the key (VATS) needs to be read by the BCM to extinguish that light.
Bill
The THEFT DETERRENT RELAY is the heart of the cranking sequence. There are two sides of the relay. The CONTROL side and the power output side.
That relay is in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the fire wall. The relay will have FOUR wires.
First check all THREE fuses located in the I/P Fuse box #51, #52 and # 14
When you have all the safety circuits completed and the key in CRANK/START you apply 12 VDC to the control side of the relay. The BCM ground the Yellow/black wire when all of the security requirements are met.
When the control side gets energized it allows the 60 AMP 12 VDC power to go to the starter SOLENOID and the starter will run and crank the engine.
Things to check:
FUSES!
Main connections on the starter solenoid (Clean/ tight and not damaged)
Battery connections clean and tight. Battery terminal torque 97-2003 C5 torque to = 11 ft/lbs
Theft Deterrent Relay bad?
Is the SECURITY light on the IPC extinguished when you have the ignition ON?? If the security light isn’t out, you can’t crank the engine.
The resistor pellet on the key (VATS) needs to be read by the BCM to extinguish that light.
Bill
If no single click when turning the key on a no-start condition, I would start with testing the relay like Bill mentioned. Anything else on this side I wouldn't know much about.
If there is a click, I'd start with tapping the solenoid. Checking the starter, battery, and ground are not that difficult. Search for some old threads regarding each of these.
08-30-2014, 03:57 PM
#27
Intermediate
23 days later and the new starter is installed and everything reattached/connected. Fired right up and no codes. FWIW, the starter I removed was the redesigned type with two long bolts. That starter was installed back in 2006 when I had my cam done. Either the mechanic knew then there was a problem with the OEM design or he just got lucky when he ordered the replacement part.We haven't heard from neckhole, the original poster, have we? I suspect I hijacked his thread and I didn't mean to do that.
If anyone is curious what I had to go thru with this project, just PM me.