4L60 to T56
07-28-2014, 06:38 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Vernon Tx
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4L60 to T56
I'm trying to come up with a parts list, but maybe you guys will know if I'm missing something. So far I have:
Transmission
Driveshaft
Torque tube
Pedal assembly
Shifter
Computer from a manual car
Clutch
What else am I missing?
Transmission
Driveshaft
Torque tube
Pedal assembly
Shifter
Computer from a manual car
Clutch
What else am I missing?
07-29-2014, 10:33 AM
#2
Racer
I did the auto to manual transmission swap two summers ago, one of the easier ways to do it is to buy everything straight out from a wrecked manual shift vehicle so you're not chasing parts all over the place.
What you'll need:
- Transmission
- Bellhousing (two-piece manual version)
- Flywheel / pressure plate / clutch disk (you might want to buy these new altogether)
- Throwout bearing
- Pilot bearing
- Torque tube assy
- Shifter
- Clutch master cylinder / slave cylinder
- Clutch and brake pedal (you do not need the whole assembly, you can remove old auto brake pedal by itself and install the narrower manual brake pedal and clutch pedal without having to yank everything out!)
- Transmission wiring harness (this absolutely MUST be from a manual version of your car - same year, and same options such as F45, etc.)
- Keep your original computer in vehicle and have a local tuner re-flash it using the profile from a manual version of your car. Note: The car will start and run without any reprogramming done, however idle will be different and the "Check Engine" light will always stay on.
- Differential (if you are considering something like a 3.90 or 4.10 do it while you have the new transmission out of the vehicle!)
****
- You will install the torque tube, transmission and differential as an assembly.
- The exhaust and tunnel cover have to be removed. Lowering the rear suspension cradle takes some caution to avoid kinking brake lines or severing wires. You do not have to disconnect brake lines to do this!
- You'll have to cut a hole in the firewall for the clutch pedal rod to go through, however there's already a dimple molded into the fiberglass that tells you where the hole centerline is.
- Torquing the pressure plate bolts in the proper sequence is a challenge since the engine wants to rotate - you need to figure out how to stop it from spinning.
- The clutch switch is another challenge - you can use a "jumper" between the connector pins (not recommended) or run two wires to the clutch switch. You'll have to do something - with the circuit open, the car won't start!
- Bleeding the clutch system is a huge headache. If you're considering installing a remove bleeder tube, now's the time to do it!
- Your speedometer doesn't need to be reprogrammed if you change to a 3.90 or 4.10 (or any) differential.
***
- You'll have a blast once you're finished, and it'll feel like you're driving a whole different car!
Jeff
What you'll need:
- Transmission
- Bellhousing (two-piece manual version)
- Flywheel / pressure plate / clutch disk (you might want to buy these new altogether)
- Throwout bearing
- Pilot bearing
- Torque tube assy
- Shifter
- Clutch master cylinder / slave cylinder
- Clutch and brake pedal (you do not need the whole assembly, you can remove old auto brake pedal by itself and install the narrower manual brake pedal and clutch pedal without having to yank everything out!)
- Transmission wiring harness (this absolutely MUST be from a manual version of your car - same year, and same options such as F45, etc.)
- Keep your original computer in vehicle and have a local tuner re-flash it using the profile from a manual version of your car. Note: The car will start and run without any reprogramming done, however idle will be different and the "Check Engine" light will always stay on.
- Differential (if you are considering something like a 3.90 or 4.10 do it while you have the new transmission out of the vehicle!)
****
- You will install the torque tube, transmission and differential as an assembly.
- The exhaust and tunnel cover have to be removed. Lowering the rear suspension cradle takes some caution to avoid kinking brake lines or severing wires. You do not have to disconnect brake lines to do this!
- You'll have to cut a hole in the firewall for the clutch pedal rod to go through, however there's already a dimple molded into the fiberglass that tells you where the hole centerline is.
- Torquing the pressure plate bolts in the proper sequence is a challenge since the engine wants to rotate - you need to figure out how to stop it from spinning.
- The clutch switch is another challenge - you can use a "jumper" between the connector pins (not recommended) or run two wires to the clutch switch. You'll have to do something - with the circuit open, the car won't start!
- Bleeding the clutch system is a huge headache. If you're considering installing a remove bleeder tube, now's the time to do it!
- Your speedometer doesn't need to be reprogrammed if you change to a 3.90 or 4.10 (or any) differential.
***
- You'll have a blast once you're finished, and it'll feel like you're driving a whole different car!
Jeff
10-27-2020, 02:19 PM
#5
Looking for aluminum flywheel
Looking for aluminum flywheel to put on 1995 LT1. Next spring it will be LT4 hotcam. Car has 11,800 miles on it. Bought it from my Dad.
Do you still have the aluminum flywheel? With approx. 400 HP do you think I would need more than a new OEM clutch kit?
Thanks, Tom
Do you still have the aluminum flywheel? With approx. 400 HP do you think I would need more than a new OEM clutch kit?
Thanks, Tom
10-27-2020, 02:56 PM
#6
Stock clutch can handle 400hp, I had an aluminum flywheel on my built C4, I won't do one again, taking off from 1st wasn't fun