When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking to install this myself. Ive seen the cam and head guide around there thats np. I haven't read it all yet.
My main concern is what i'm going to need as far as upgrades or replacements. Ex. Gaskets, Timing chain, tune. I've read from other members that ill need to change my Transmission Converter or Stall? because i have a 98 A4??? its looks to be in great shape.
Please correct me if i'm wrong or going down some what the right path.
Exhaust, intake manifold. Supporting mods will come some time down the road.
That's a pretty big cam for an otherwise, stock A4. You will experience surge, without excellent tuning. You will need at least 3:42s, and some kind of stall converter; I'm not an auto guy.
If your car is stock, I wouldn't use that cam. Too large! As stated above you would need gears and a loose converter. That cam should be used with long tube headers, z06 or fast intake, cold air intake and if possible better flowing heads. You also need valve springs, pushrods, lifters and trays.
Unless your ready to do it all at once, wait until your ready. Lt headers, cai, 3.42's and a tune would be a much better start and really make it come alive.
sigh, A4 yup. got the car for 5,500 after repairs like 7500-8000k about two years ago. So i'm not complaining to much. I wanted to get out of my 00' Mustang GT asap.
So I see i need some type of push for the cam like rear gears, stall and tune.
when i install the new cam, what should i replace while Im in there?
What do you mean ill experience surge? like slow down before it picks up power? =\
That's a big cam. I put an MS3 in my exhaust/stall only car and I love it. I also put a set of 243 heads on at the same time. You just have to do the supporting mods. You'll need hardened push rods, better springs, new head bolts, and at least a 3200 stall. A good tune will really help the driveability. While you're in there it never hurts to replace the lifters and do something like the comp tunion upgrade on the rockers, replace the timing chain with something more robust, and replace the oil pump. Also this is a good time to replace the stock harmonic balancer if you haven't done so yet.
Guess i have to wait a while longer, and gather all the needed mods first. i havent changed the harmonic balancer yet.. Its a bit wobbly.. and i know this because 1) you can see it. 2) when i re installed it just to replace the gasket i guess i placed it on to tight and it makes my ac belt rub against the block and rips it apart.
I did a 25% underdrive powerbond pulley with an ARP bolt. You have to take off the balancer anyway and you'll need a new bolt also so... might as well was my thought!
Whoooo,, You have a LOT to learn about cams. Without a LOT of supporting stuff (a lot of it was already recommended) you will be WAY OVER CAMMED and your drivability and economy will suffer badly. A good cam that supports power and torque in the lower to mid power band will make you a lot more happy. That g5x3 cam 114 cam make it power in the upper portion of the RPM Range.
Without proper transmission (PCM tuning), and proper Higher Stall Converter, you will hate life. Also rearend gearing will play a big part of making the car accelerate off the line.
Older A4s may not survive the increased power/TQ.
You will also need to replace the rubber couplers in the Torque Tube!
What suspension do you have?? BASE?
Some more things to add to the list if you pull the heads and install an aftermarket CAM:
-New Lifter buckets
-New Lifters!
-ARP Head Studs (once you go head studs, you will NEVER look back!
- 36 lb/hr injectors
- 2001+ or ZO6 (same thing) intake manifold or FAST 90/92
-VARARAM Cold Air Intake
- LS2/7 timing chain
- adding a transmission cooler to cool the ATF for the High Stall Converter,
- ARP Damper Bolt
- New chain cover seal
- Melling high volume oil pump
NOTE! Each time you alter the air flow and or fuel through the engine, you will need or SHOULD have the tune redone!
Recommend that you get ALL the mods that you are going to ever do together and install them in one fail swoop and get it professionally tuned.
i have base, went with some bilstein sport shocks. Traction control and abs are no good.
im not looking into buying the best of everything nor the cheapest.
-As for lifter buckets and lifters, could both be achieved in a head package?
-would 243, 862, 706, 317's be any good if ported? after market cost an eye.
-as for the rubber cupplers in the torque tube. Ive never seen that before. makes sense after i saw what it grips to.
-i have the vararam intake.
- and the other items by next year i guess. cant rush though this if im going to do it the right way.
I'm in almost 5 grand on my heads/cam/exhaust/torque converter/3.42 diff project......
Quit now if you don't plan on spending more $$$....or buy a smaller cam.
Keep in mind you are building your car for what you want it to be. A lot of people say if you give up some low and mid range power the car sucks. That's not always true as a higher stall more than makes up for the loss in low end power.
I built (still building) my car to love the upper rpm's and run hard when at wide open throttle. That's not for everyone and plenty of people say don't lose the low-mid power for upper rpm power but it's all about what you want. With my stall I'm never at a low rpm so why would I want to make power there?
07-24-2014, 06:13 PM
Need guidance here. Just bought a g5x3 cam 114
You have a LOT to learn about cams. Without a LOT of supporting stuff (a lot of it was already recommended) you will be WAY OVER CAMMED and your drivability and economy will suffer badly. A good cam that supports power and torque in the lower to mid power band will make you a lot more happy. That g5x3 cam 114 cam make it power in the upper portion of the RPM Range.
