hypertech ppm I I I , she won't fire!
07-21-2014, 11:45 AM
#1
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
hypertech ppm I I I , she won't fire!
Ok so I changed the water pump in my vette before parking her for the winter, However stupid me didn't even think about the fact the hypertech pp had been used and I was supposed to reset the car back to stock before fixing the water pump or any work on the car for that matter! Well when spring arrived I went to fire her up and she would turn over but she wouldn't fire! Seemed like she wasn't getting gas, but i can hear the pump prime when i turn the key! I am receiving codes p 1276 in history and current in the DIC, along with reduced engine power. When I try to hook the hypertech back on to take her back to stock, it says call hypertech, & of course they want 300$ for me to send in my unit because they have updated their software even tho I have the same car?! I would like to try and avoid this extra cost but I miss my car dang it!! Can anyone please help and guide me in the right direction as to what their thoughts are....Do I need to pay hypertech for this "upgrade", or do I need to take my car to the dealer and have it flashed, or is my BCM fried....agggghhhhh! Any suggestions or ideas would be GREATLY appriciated! Thanks in advance!
Kelsie
Kelsie
07-21-2014, 02:47 PM
#3
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
Thanks for answering my question so quickly!! & Forgive me in advance if and when I sound like a retard about this stuff....i am learning as i go along! I was told by a hypertech customer service person that I was supposed to set it back to stock before doing any mechanic work on it and that's what might be causing the reduced engine power?? I forgot another big part in my last post...when I had scanned after the new water pump was installed it was telling me something to do with the crank shaft sensor which I just finished putting in last week (and THAT was a blast if i might say ) & before I changed the sensor it only would turn over, once I put the new sensor in that's when it finally fired but puttered for bout 3-4 seconds and then died! Any more ideas? Thanks again
07-21-2014, 02:54 PM
#4
Uneducated overachiever
No offense, but maybe you should start at the beginning and relate everything that has happened/you have done to the car.
It would make it a lot easier to figure out what is going on....good luck.
It would make it a lot easier to figure out what is going on....good luck.
07-21-2014, 03:02 PM
#5
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
First changed water pump, it drove fine until I parked it for winter.....
In spring it wouldn't fire so figured out the battery was bad so put a new battery in , still wouldn't fire.
Next I scanned it and it kept throwing codes about the PCM, TAC, & THE BCM...so removed them and they were good and put back in, still no fire.
Then I tried a computer reset where you have to turn ignition on for like 11 min turn off for 30 seconds deal, still no fire.
And lastly is the crankshaft sensor that I replaced last week , it fired puttered and died! And that is everything that I've done to it! Does that help at all?
Oh and No offense taken! Lol All good! ☺
In spring it wouldn't fire so figured out the battery was bad so put a new battery in , still wouldn't fire.
Next I scanned it and it kept throwing codes about the PCM, TAC, & THE BCM...so removed them and they were good and put back in, still no fire.
Then I tried a computer reset where you have to turn ignition on for like 11 min turn off for 30 seconds deal, still no fire.
And lastly is the crankshaft sensor that I replaced last week , it fired puttered and died! And that is everything that I've done to it! Does that help at all?
Oh and No offense taken! Lol All good! ☺
07-22-2014, 09:16 AM
#6
First changed water pump, it drove fine until I parked it for winter.....
In spring it wouldn't fire so figured out the battery was bad so put a new battery in , still wouldn't fire.
Next I scanned it and it kept throwing codes about the PCM, TAC, & THE BCM...so removed them and they were good and put back in, still no fire.
Then I tried a computer reset where you have to turn ignition on for like 11 min turn off for 30 seconds deal, still no fire.
And lastly is the crankshaft sensor that I replaced last week , it fired puttered and died! And that is everything that I've done to it! Does that help at all?
Oh and No offense taken! Lol All good! ☺
In spring it wouldn't fire so figured out the battery was bad so put a new battery in , still wouldn't fire.
Next I scanned it and it kept throwing codes about the PCM, TAC, & THE BCM...so removed them and they were good and put back in, still no fire.
Then I tried a computer reset where you have to turn ignition on for like 11 min turn off for 30 seconds deal, still no fire.
And lastly is the crankshaft sensor that I replaced last week , it fired puttered and died! And that is everything that I've done to it! Does that help at all?
Oh and No offense taken! Lol All good! ☺
07-22-2014, 05:15 PM
#8
Instructor
On topic but different example
I agree with one of the responses in that you should set the program back to stock before taking it for work at a shop, especially the dealer.
I have a 2001 Dodge diesel with the Smarty that makes my truck pull like OMG.
So, yes, program back to stock for a visit to a dealer, but don't know why you would before doing your own work on it, especially a water pump etc. non-electrical/programming type work.
Not answered, I know, just verifying no need to put back to stock for work at home.
Sounds like something else is going on. Pull the codes for sure and check the "current" codes.
Good luck!
I have a 2001 Dodge diesel with the Smarty that makes my truck pull like OMG.
So, yes, program back to stock for a visit to a dealer, but don't know why you would before doing your own work on it, especially a water pump etc. non-electrical/programming type work.
Not answered, I know, just verifying no need to put back to stock for work at home.
Sounds like something else is going on. Pull the codes for sure and check the "current" codes.
Good luck!
