01 Harmonic Balancer
06-22-2014, 09:55 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
01 Harmonic Balancer
Has anyone had the pleasure of their C5 harmonic balancer spliting apart? Are there any good write ups on replacement?
Last edited by hgoodwiniii; 06-22-2014 at 10:00 PM.
06-22-2014, 10:17 PM
#2
Drifting
Yep go to LS1 how to's Cam and Head install. Do not take their advice on the install part. Buy a tool or use the threaded rod, nut and several washer trick.
Look at Froggy's video on You Tibe.
Read, read, read.
I'm doing mine on a 4 post lift. The hardest part is moving the rack. Get a 18mm line wrench. Unbolt the PS pump and ABS unit and bunge them to the side. Totally remove the bracket.
Plan on at least doing a LS2 timing and new oil pump
Look at Froggy's video on You Tibe.
Read, read, read.
I'm doing mine on a 4 post lift. The hardest part is moving the rack. Get a 18mm line wrench. Unbolt the PS pump and ABS unit and bunge them to the side. Totally remove the bracket.
Plan on at least doing a LS2 timing and new oil pump
06-23-2014, 07:29 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yep go to LS1 how to's Cam and Head install. Do not take their advice on the install part. Buy a tool or use the threaded rod, nut and several washer trick.
Look at Froggy's video on You Tibe.
Read, read, read.
I'm doing mine on a 4 post lift. The hardest part is moving the rack. Get a 18mm line wrench. Unbolt the PS pump and ABS unit and bunge them to the side. Totally remove the bracket.
Plan on at least doing a LS2 timing and new oil pump
Look at Froggy's video on You Tibe.
Read, read, read.
I'm doing mine on a 4 post lift. The hardest part is moving the rack. Get a 18mm line wrench. Unbolt the PS pump and ABS unit and bunge them to the side. Totally remove the bracket.
Plan on at least doing a LS2 timing and new oil pump
06-23-2014, 09:03 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
If you are considering doing other things since you have the car taken apart for the HB, you can consider the timing chain, oil pump, and you have done about 3/4 of the work for putting in a new cam. Just some other things to think about while you have done most of the work. Not necessary, but options. I did not change them on mine.
Good luck with the HB change.
06-23-2014, 09:21 AM
#5
Saw a good demo on Horsepower TV about the correct way to install the pump, you need several feeler gauges to do it correctly by the way. There also seems to be a tool to correctly center the front cover so the seal doesn't get burned up and start leaking. Be prepared, the steering rack had to come loose to do this and you'll need the correct tool (bought or homemade) to press the new balancer on.
06-23-2014, 12:03 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Does the steering gear need to come completely out to change the balancer? Thinking on the other items. Car has 102,000 miles on it.
06-23-2014, 12:31 PM
#7
Instructor
It took me 4 hours to get the steering rack out, Prolly the worst part so far is the power steering lines the wrench will all of 1/1000 of a turn. What I would like to know is how to lock the engine to remove the 240 FT Lbs torque bolt. why does Chevy use a Balancer without threaded holes. Ive heard about the rope in a cylinder trick, is it safe. trying to keep the cost to a minimum. With all of the stuff you need don't forget new antifreeze, power steering fluid. I am ready to remove the bolt, and have ordered a puller. may have to buy that flywheel lock.
06-23-2014, 05:42 PM
#9
Racer
I did mine on a 2002 ls1. Balancer didn't separate but was wobbling. Use crows foot wrench to get the rack lines off. Loosen the engine pan bolts (4) and let is down about 1 inch, don't remove. Rack slides out pretty easy. You should change both belts, tensioners and idler pulleys while your in there. If you have a manual shift leave the wheel on the ground, 6th gear and E brake on. If you have an auto, you'll need to pull the starter to lock the flywheel. Good luck.
06-23-2014, 06:37 PM
#10
Drifting
I agree on all of the above.
To break the bolt loose I had to use my 1/2 craftsman breaker bar. My longer harbor freight one started to bend. A cheater bar would have been helpful with the craftsman, but I pulled it loose.
To tightened I uses the harbor freight bar, and then switched to my craftsman 250 ft lb torque wrench from the top.
To break the bolt loose I had to use my 1/2 craftsman breaker bar. My longer harbor freight one started to bend. A cheater bar would have been helpful with the craftsman, but I pulled it loose.
To tightened I uses the harbor freight bar, and then switched to my craftsman 250 ft lb torque wrench from the top.
06-23-2014, 06:40 PM
#11
Drifting
Also, DO NOT strip the bottom two bolts on the timing cover (like I did). Go with caution on these. They are 18 ft lb., but not as robust as the threads on the block.
06-23-2014, 07:37 PM
#12
Drifting
Get some plugs / caps for the PS lines, and plugs for the open ports in the gear box. Also, I would drain the coolant and get some line clamps. Two big ones and two small ones. Harbor freight has two styles and both work ok.
Have some bungee cords on hand. I bought a bunch of brake clean from NAPA @ 50% off for clean up. Cheap micro fiber towels and brake clean work well.
Otherwise you will have a mess to clean up........
Have some bungee cords on hand. I bought a bunch of brake clean from NAPA @ 50% off for clean up. Cheap micro fiber towels and brake clean work well.
Otherwise you will have a mess to clean up........
06-24-2014, 09:06 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
Tools and parts I bought for the job: ARP balancer bolt ($36), Balancer install tool off ebay ($20), 3 jaw 4" puller (already had this but around $10-15), National timing cover seal ($25), powerbond balancer from Oreilly's ($98), LS1 front pin kit from ebay ($70), 90 degree drill from harbor freight ($25).
06-24-2014, 10:33 AM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok, thanks. I'm getting a good feel for what this is going to take. A couple of things I need clarification on
I should lock the flywheel for both removal and installation of the new balancer?
If I do not pin the crankshaft, I will have trouble with it moving and loosing the correct alignment on the crankshaft during the torque process?
Whether I totally remove the steering rack or push it to the side, I need to disconnect the lines from it and also remove the steering wheel shaft connection?
Is there risk of air getting into the steering system once it's disconnected?
What size bolts will it take to plug the rack while I have the lines disconnected?
Does the water pump come off to change the timing cover seal? Is there also a timing cover gasket?
Sounds like there is not much confidence here on the forum with going back with an AC Delco balancer and balancer bolt?
I should lock the flywheel for both removal and installation of the new balancer?
If I do not pin the crankshaft, I will have trouble with it moving and loosing the correct alignment on the crankshaft during the torque process?
Whether I totally remove the steering rack or push it to the side, I need to disconnect the lines from it and also remove the steering wheel shaft connection?
Is there risk of air getting into the steering system once it's disconnected?
What size bolts will it take to plug the rack while I have the lines disconnected?
Does the water pump come off to change the timing cover seal? Is there also a timing cover gasket?
Sounds like there is not much confidence here on the forum with going back with an AC Delco balancer and balancer bolt?
06-24-2014, 12:48 PM
#16
Race Director
Ok, thanks. I'm getting a good feel for what this is going to take. A couple of things I need clarification on
I should lock the flywheel for both removal and installation of the new balancer?
If it's a 6spd all you do is throw it in 4th on autos you remove starter and flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in it.
If I do not pin the crankshaft, I will have trouble with it moving and loosing the correct alignment on the crankshaft during the torque process?
no but why would you not pin it? You pin it after it's on
Whether I totally remove the steering rack or push it to the side, I need to disconnect the lines from it and also remove the steering wheel shaft connection?
Yes and just move them to the side
Is there risk of air getting into the steering system once it's disconnected?
no but when you are done just remove the ps res cap and move the steering wheel right to left while on jacks stands and running if you have any doubdts
What size bolts will it take to plug the rack while I have the lines disconnected?
Don't need to plug anything ziptie a ziplock bag around it
Does the water pump come off to change the timing cover seal? Is there also a timing cover gasket?
yes on water pump and yes on timing cover seal
Sounds like there is not much confidence here on the forum with going back with an AC Delco balancer and balancer bolt?
I would upgrade and use a new stock bolt or ARP either is fine. May think about doing a cam since you are right there.
I should lock the flywheel for both removal and installation of the new balancer?
If it's a 6spd all you do is throw it in 4th on autos you remove starter and flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in it.
If I do not pin the crankshaft, I will have trouble with it moving and loosing the correct alignment on the crankshaft during the torque process?
no but why would you not pin it? You pin it after it's on
Whether I totally remove the steering rack or push it to the side, I need to disconnect the lines from it and also remove the steering wheel shaft connection?
Yes and just move them to the side
Is there risk of air getting into the steering system once it's disconnected?
no but when you are done just remove the ps res cap and move the steering wheel right to left while on jacks stands and running if you have any doubdts
What size bolts will it take to plug the rack while I have the lines disconnected?
Don't need to plug anything ziptie a ziplock bag around it
Does the water pump come off to change the timing cover seal? Is there also a timing cover gasket?
yes on water pump and yes on timing cover seal
Sounds like there is not much confidence here on the forum with going back with an AC Delco balancer and balancer bolt?
I would upgrade and use a new stock bolt or ARP either is fine. May think about doing a cam since you are right there.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Last edited by Chicago1; 06-24-2014 at 12:51 PM.
06-25-2014, 09:31 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by hgoodwiniii
Ok, thanks. I'm getting a good feel for what this is going to take. A couple of things I need clarification on
I should lock the flywheel for both removal and installation of the new balancer?
If it's a 6spd all you do is throw it in 4th on autos you remove starter and flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in it.
If I do not pin the crankshaft, I will have trouble with it moving and loosing the correct alignment on the crankshaft during the torque process?
no but why would you not pin it? You pin it after it's on
-pinning it was not difficult with the front pin kit from ebay, trust me get the kit and do it for piece of mind.
Whether I totally remove the steering rack or push it to the side, I need to disconnect the lines from it and also remove the steering wheel shaft connection?
Yes and just move them to the side
Is there risk of air getting into the steering system once it's disconnected?
no but when you are done just remove the ps res cap and move the steering wheel right to left while on jacks stands and running if you have any doubdts
What size bolts will it take to plug the rack while I have the lines disconnected?
Don't need to plug anything ziptie a ziplock bag around it
Does the water pump come off to change the timing cover seal? Is there also a timing cover gasket?
yes on water pump and yes on timing cover seal
You do have to remove the water pump to change the timing cover gasket set but I only changed the seal in the front of the cover - behind the balancer, do not need to remove water pump for that.
Sounds like there is not much confidence here on the forum with going back with an AC Delco balancer and balancer bolt?
I would upgrade and use a new stock bolt or ARP either is fine. May think about doing a cam since you are right there.
Ok, thanks. I'm getting a good feel for what this is going to take. A couple of things I need clarification on
I should lock the flywheel for both removal and installation of the new balancer?
If it's a 6spd all you do is throw it in 4th on autos you remove starter and flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in it.
If I do not pin the crankshaft, I will have trouble with it moving and loosing the correct alignment on the crankshaft during the torque process?
no but why would you not pin it? You pin it after it's on
-pinning it was not difficult with the front pin kit from ebay, trust me get the kit and do it for piece of mind.
Whether I totally remove the steering rack or push it to the side, I need to disconnect the lines from it and also remove the steering wheel shaft connection?
Yes and just move them to the side
Is there risk of air getting into the steering system once it's disconnected?
no but when you are done just remove the ps res cap and move the steering wheel right to left while on jacks stands and running if you have any doubdts
What size bolts will it take to plug the rack while I have the lines disconnected?
Don't need to plug anything ziptie a ziplock bag around it
Does the water pump come off to change the timing cover seal? Is there also a timing cover gasket?
yes on water pump and yes on timing cover seal
You do have to remove the water pump to change the timing cover gasket set but I only changed the seal in the front of the cover - behind the balancer, do not need to remove water pump for that.
Sounds like there is not much confidence here on the forum with going back with an AC Delco balancer and balancer bolt?
I would upgrade and use a new stock bolt or ARP either is fine. May think about doing a cam since you are right there.
06-26-2014, 09:46 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Looks like I have something leaking from/on the steering gear in the area that the steering column comes into it. I have the steering gear unbolted but not moved it yet so I'm not sure if the leak is from a hose or the gear itself. With that said, I hope it is a hose but is it common to see a leak from the actual gear box in the area the steering column connects? Is there a replaceable seal that can be changed in this area of the gear box? Thanks.
06-26-2014, 09:59 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
I don't see comments about Ensuring that the Steering wheel DOES NOT TURN when you have it disconnected from the Steering Rack.... Very Important.