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New owner, lots of codes. Where do I begin

Old 05-12-2014, 01:09 PM
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Biotex
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Default New owner, lots of codes. Where do I begin

New to me 01 Vert. 94,000 miles with automatic transmission and HUD.

I cleared all codes from the history using the procedure I found by searching. I was getting the Service Active Handling, Traction Control, ABS message on the I/P display.
I then went for a 20 mile drive, and did a hard braking, and some fairly aggressive take-offs. Tried to exercise the controls. Came back home, and pulled the codes:

P1571 ASR Desired Torque
C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
C1236 Low System Supply Voltage
C1248: Dynamic rear proportioning (DRP)
C1254 Abnormal Shutdown Detected
C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction
C1261 LF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1262 LF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1263 RF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1264 RF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1266 LR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1268 RR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1271 LF TCS Master Cylinder Isolation Valve Malfunction
C1272 LF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction
C1273 RF TCS Master Cylinder Isolation Valve Malfunction
C1274 RF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction
C1277 Requested Torque Signal CKT Malfunction
C1284 Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Bias Malfunction
C1285 Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Circuit Malfunction
C1291 Open Brake Lamp Switch Contacts During Deceleration
C1293 DTC C1291/C1292 Set Current/Previous Ignition Cycle
C1295 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open
U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS

I did a lot of searching, and am seeing that the C1214 might be a cold solder joint in a relay in the EBCM.

Also, I might need to clean some contacts in the ignition switch to clear the C1248.

I guess what I'm needing is for someone to look at all these codes and see if anything pops out as a best place to start. The U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS looks important!

One thing I feel I should mention, is when I pulled in to my shop, I felt a momentary chatter on the brake pedal, and hears it also. Only lasted a second, then went away. I still get the message: Service Active Handling, Traction Control, ABS...

I need guidance please.

Last edited by Biotex; 05-12-2014 at 01:16 PM.
Old 05-12-2014, 01:44 PM
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Biotex
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Every one of your codes is related to the TCS except P1571 and that is likely the result of C1277, Requested Torque......

The 1214 should be repairable and is LIKELY the cause of all the other TCS DTC's that you have.

You can either remove the EBCM and send it out for repair or is your a DIY person with a small soldering iron, NOT a soldering gun, you can repair/replace the relay yourself.

Here is the link to the DIY:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...r-fleabay.html


There are several places that can repair them. One, perhaps not the least expensive is ABSFIXER. Google that name for his web site. Others advertise on Ebay or another member may offer up the one they used.

At this point, I cannot say for certain that your problem is NOT C1255. But that DTC could be the result of the main power relay failing and causing the C1255.
Thanks for the info. I had read the EBCM link you posted, and am going to tackle that as soon as I get a proper iron. I only have a gun.
I am happy to hear you think all the other codes might be related. That would be sweet news if it holds to be the culprit.
Old 05-12-2014, 07:58 PM
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warlock007
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check battery health and do a slow charge on it, good advice on the EBCM.

not sure how long the car sat before you got it but I would do a brake fluid flush all the way through the calibers. Id also do all other fluids on the car to include, coolant, rear end, tranny etc.
Old 05-13-2014, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by warlock007
check battery health and do a slow charge on it, good advice on the EBCM.

not sure how long the car sat before you got it but I would do a brake fluid flush all the way through the calibers. Id also do all other fluids on the car to include, coolant, rear end, tranny etc.
Battery is 6 Y.O. so probably needs replaced. The car sat for several months at a time for several years. PO installed a disconnect on the battery. To me it turns over the engine as good as a new one, and the voltage readings are spot on. It holds a charge nicely, even connected. It wouldn't hurt to do a load test though. Good advice.

Will talk to the PO and see what fluids he did in his six years of ownership, and go from there. Since the car was in a very humid climate, I will probably just change the brake fluid anyways now that it is in the desert.
Old 05-13-2014, 12:00 PM
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Endeka
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Second the battery idea. Places like AutoZone will load test your battery for free, let you buy any battery, even an optima, and return it, so if you buy it and it doesn't fix your problem, you're still golden, just return it. Also, pull your wheels and clean the TCS connectors with a wire brush, that can sometimes be the cause of some problems. Do the cheap and easy stuff first before you start ripping the electrical components apart.
Old 05-13-2014, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

BEFORE
you do anything on the EBCM, I strongly suggest that you use a Digital MultiMeter to measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the neg battery cable disconnected. I did this, and got a reading of 12.54 volts The electronics in these cars are especially sensitive to voltage levels.

The readings you get from the dash gauges show you the state of health of the charging system NOT the state of health of the battery. With engine running you read the output voltage of the alternator not the voltage of an unloaded battery. With key on and engine OFF there are many electrical circuits in the C5 that are loading the battery so that voltage means nothing. Many pieces of electronics go through diagnostics when they are powered on and low voltages can make those diagnostics fail.

The car will start with 12.2 volts (no load) but the electronics are NOT happy with 12.5 volts (no load) or less. You should also have the battery load tested. I plan to do this ASAP

If you disconnect the battery, when you reconnect/replace the battery, clear all the codes that show when you pull them (many are caused by the make/break of the battery posts as you try to tighten the bolts) drive the car and then pull the codes again. Those that return are the ones that need attention.............Yes, this is exactly what I did, and got the codes posted above.
See response above in brown text color.
Thank you for your input. Much appreciated, and good to know about the voltage sesitivity. I will purchase a new battery soon. I have only three choices in my small town. Autozone (Duralast and optima), NAPA (their brand), and a tire store that sells Interstate.

Last edited by Biotex; 05-13-2014 at 01:22 PM.
Old 05-13-2014, 09:29 PM
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Bob800
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Originally Posted by Biotex
New to me 01 Vert. 94,000 miles with automatic transmission and HUD.

I cleared all codes from the history using the procedure I found by searching. I was getting the Service Active Handling, Traction Control, ABS message on the I/P display.
I then went for a 20 mile drive, and did a hard braking, and some fairly aggressive take-offs. Tried to exercise the controls. Came back home, and pulled the codes:

P1571 ASR Desired Torque
C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
C1236 Low System Supply Voltage
C1248: Dynamic rear proportioning (DRP)
C1254 Abnormal Shutdown Detected
C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction
C1261 LF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1262 LF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1263 RF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1264 RF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1266 LR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1268 RR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1271 LF TCS Master Cylinder Isolation Valve Malfunction
C1272 LF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction
C1273 RF TCS Master Cylinder Isolation Valve Malfunction
C1274 RF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction
C1277 Requested Torque Signal CKT Malfunction
C1284 Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Bias Malfunction
C1285 Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Circuit Malfunction
C1291 Open Brake Lamp Switch Contacts During Deceleration
C1293 DTC C1291/C1292 Set Current/Previous Ignition Cycle
C1295 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open
U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS

I did a lot of searching, and am seeing that the C1214 might be a cold solder joint in a relay in the EBCM.

Also, I might need to clean some contacts in the ignition switch to clear the C1248.

I guess what I'm needing is for someone to look at all these codes and see if anything pops out as a best place to start. The U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS looks important!

One thing I feel I should mention, is when I pulled in to my shop, I felt a momentary chatter on the brake pedal, and hears it also. Only lasted a second, then went away. I still get the message: Service Active Handling, Traction Control, ABS...

I need guidance please.
Check under the battery tray as well, the C5 is notorious for battery acid leaking on the main wiring harness.
Old 05-13-2014, 11:02 PM
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Biotex
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Originally Posted by Bob800
Check under the battery tray as well, the C5 is notorious for battery acid leaking on the main wiring harness.
Yes, I read that. I removed the battery and tray the very first thing upon taking delivery. I found minimal leakage, but neutralized it, and applied POR-15 to the area affected. Thank you!
Old 05-14-2014, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
The readings you get from the dash gauges show you the state of health of the charging system NOT the state of health of the battery. With engine running you read the output voltage of the alternator not the voltage of an unloaded battery. With key on and engine OFF there are many electrical circuits in the C5 that are loading the battery so that voltage means nothing. Many pieces of electronics go through diagnostics when they are powered on and low voltages can make those diagnostics fail.
I'm wondering what kind of voltage readings others are showing on the dash gauges with the engine off, key on, in park, radio off, etc...

The smallest load possible. Mine shows 12.3V which seems awfully low, so that is why I'm wondering what others are showing with a known good battery.
I'm replacing my battery in a day or two.
Old 05-15-2014, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I'll start you off with mine, 12.2 on the dash gauges. Using a digital volt meter directly across the battery I measure 12.87.

Every car is going to be different because of options in the car that power up with the ignition on. Options such as the 12 disk CD changer, after market accessories such as GPS , whether the interior lights have gone off after opening the door to get in, underhood light if the hood is open, the condition of the ignition switch since the gauges are AFTER the ignition switch, the state of charge of the battery, etc. It means nothing unless you have a base that you start with in a given car with a new fully charges battery and you can insure that all the variables don't change over time..

The ONLY true measure is the no load voltage measured across the battery posts... JMHO.
I get what your saying. If yours is 12.2V, then I feel ok with the 12.3V i'm seeing. I just needed a reference to compare mine to, and am now satisfied the low reading is meaningless except for a baseline. Thanks for posting up.

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