ArtGle

So I'm out there in pajama bottoms, a T-Shirt, and sneakers.
The Alarm FOB doesn't shut it off.
So I "QUICKLY" drive it out of the neighborhood...
Don't need rowdy'd neighbors.
Hit the horn button on the steering wheel a couple of times and it shuts off.

'bout an hour later.... same thing.
Only this time it took more of a BANG on the steering wheel to shut it off.

Currently out in the parking lot at work while I try to decide how to go about this.

Is there some 'common issue' that I might be looking at?

1999 Base Coupe, the usual options.
Note, recently had the dash out for lights, but didn't touch the column at all.

65GGvert

Horn membrane in steering wheel needs to be replaced.

Ron C!

My Coupe did the same thing. Membrane deteriorates and will make contact, usually when the temp drops. 1:30 in the morning, 45 degrees and I am in the driveway disconnecting the battery. I pulled the horn fuse the next morning and ordered the membrane. About $65 if I remember correctly. Still sitting on the workbench. Need to do that soon.

dadaroo

Remember the air bag has stored energy so even when you disconnect the battery to replace the membrane you need to wait several minutes for it to dissipate.

ArtGle

Thanks for the quick repies.
I'd pulled Horn Relay Just for now.
But remembering that the Horn is for the ALARM ALSO, I don't want to disable the horn.
I'm going to look at the base of the column and then use my schematics to actually unplug the horn in the column.

ArtGle

Need your help on the "Membrane"....
My Factory Service Manuals state that the horn switch is an "Integral Part of the SIR (air bag) on the steering wheel.... ????

Mine is a 99 Coupe with tilt telescopic.

You 'Bought a Membrane' ??? Do you have the part number?
Please reply.
Thanks in advance.

Ron C!

http://www.corvettepartscenter.com/h...ane-1997-2004/

There is a great how-to video on the site as well. A very reliable Corvette tech told me to always disconnect the battery and let the car sit for about an hour before messing with the airbag, lets the energy dissipate.

dadaroo

Just in case:

Dcollins3208

At least you didn't need coffee to get going that morning

ArtGle

UMPH!!! I almost blew my mouthful of food just now when I read this..

Y're RIGHT!! I was out there in under 5 seconds... Pajama Bottoms, T-Shirt, Sneakers.....

Dcollins3208

I couldn't even imagine. I know my adrenaline would be off the charts

schimenr

Need help removing the airbag ?

I know i use a 30 torch bit.

What is the easy way to remove the airbag.

Any suggestion on the steering wheel position, how to remove it etc.

I called at I was told a 4 in extension and racket

Any other 411 ?

Thanks

65GGvert

Make that a torx bit and then a ratchet.

schimenr

Any tips on the position / angle of the wheel to get to the screws.

4XLR8N

Hoping I never have to go down this road, but just in case, gonna subscribe...

mike venth

Had to replace a clock spring awhile back so copied and printed this info from CF,,, made the job much easier...good luck, be careful the Air-bag doesn't go off
prematurely... lol

Here is some info & pic's to help with the air-bag....
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...brane-fix.html

also:TC B0022, B0024, or B0026
Circuit Description
The inflatable restraint steering wheel module deployment loop consists of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module, the inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil, and the steering wheel module high and low circuits. A shorting bar used within the steering wheel module coil connector shorts together the steering wheel module high and low circuits when the connector is disconnected. This helps to prevent unwanted deployment of the inflator module during servicing. During a frontal crash of sufficient force, the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM) allows current to flow through the deployment loop in order to deploy the steering wheel module. When the ignition is turned ON, the SDM performs continuous diagnostic tests on the deployment loops to check for proper circuit continuity and for shorts to ground or voltage. If a malfunction is detected, a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be stored in memory.

Conditions for Running the DTC
Ignition 1 voltage is within the normal operating voltage range.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
DTC B0022 will set when the steering wheel module deployment loop resistance is less than 1.3 ohms for 300 milliseconds.
DTC B0024 will set when one of the following conditions occur:
Steering wheel module high circuits is more than 6 volts for 300 milliseconds.
Steering wheel module high circuit is less than 2 volts and steering wheel module deployment loop resistance is less than 6 ohms for 300 milliseconds.
DTC B0026 will set when one of the following conditions occurs:
Steering wheel module high circuit is less than 2 volts and the steering wheel module deployment loop resistance is more than 4.8 ohms for 500 milliseconds.
Steering wheel module deployment loop resistance is more than 6 ohms for 300 milliseconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The SDM commands the AIR BAG indicator ON via Class 2 serial data.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC
The condition responsible for setting the DTC no longer exists and the scan tool Clear DTCs function is used.
A history DTC will clear once 255 malfunction free ignition cycles have occurred.
Diagnostic Aids
The following are possible causes of the malfunction:

A short between the steering wheel module high and low circuits.
An open or a high resistance in the steering wheel module high or low circuits.
A short to ground or a short to voltage in the steering wheel module high or low circuits.
The steering wheel module coil connector
The SDM connector
A malfunctioning steering wheel module
A malfunctioning steering wheel module coil
A malfunctioning SDM
Thoroughly inspect the wiring and the connectors. An incomplete inspection of the wiring and the connectors may result in a misdiagnosis, causing a part replacement with the reappearance of the malfunction. If an intermittent malfunction exists, refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems


I just went through an airbag light problem after replacing a broken horn membrane. There is only one connector that runs from the airbag to the steering wheel (it's a large yellow pin type connector that plugs into the center of the steering wheel behind the airbag) the other two wires you'll find back there are for the horn membrane.

You could pull the steering wheel apart and check to make sure that the wire is seated correctly and isn't damaged... It should be locked into place. Forgive the sloppy description, but there is a tab that pulls out of the back of the yellow connector for the airbag, to ensure proper connection, pull the tab out of the connector and plug the other side of it into the socket in the rear center of the airbag assembly, then press the tab back into place. This will lock the connector into the socket.

BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU'RE GOING TO DO THIS and I'd recommend getting the service manual procedures for disabling the airbag. Airbag deployment as I understand it is >300 ft./second and that would really hurt. I was also told that the SBIR assembly can retain power for up to ten minutes after the battery is disconnected so make sure it's off the juice for a while. I also pulled fuse 16 (I think) from the fusebox in the passenger side floorboard and disconnected the airbag harness at the base of the steering column which you can access by removing the knee bolster. After that it's just two T30 torx bolts to remove the steering wheel cover and the SBIR assembly. The steering wheel needs to be turned 45 degrees in either direction to access them. The bolts aren't especially long, but they are on pretty tight. I'd recommend using an allen type T30 wrench and a pair of pliers to turn it. If you take a look at the first picture in this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...brane-fix.html you can see where the yellow connector would plug into the back of the airbag (it's the hole with the green plastic in it right in the center of the metal disk)... That's the one I'd check out. It's also worth checking out the airbag wiring harness at the base of the steering column, don't quote me on this, but I think it's the one furthest to the right if you're sitting in the car facing the steering wheel.

Again, most people recommend taking the car to the mechanic for airbag related stuff. I have a friend who's a mechanic and has been around airbags a bit so I just invited him over to give me a hand, otherwise I probably would have gone to the shop for this...

If I were you, I'd start by checking your #16 fuse in the floorboard box then the wiring harnesses near the base of the steering column behind the knee bolster...

----------------------------------------------------
I'd say that's the Air Bag Module itself.
----------------------------------------------


Horn Membrane Fix!!
________________________________________
Well, i got tired of not having a horn here in houston..there's plenty of A-holes that needed honking at for doing stupid stuff...

so i figured what the hell! i'll try and fix it since i'm on downtime (middle of head/cam/headers install in a '98)

for starters i knew that the RH side membrane was bad, wasnt sure about the left.

So, if you decide to try this..try it at your own risk!!! Airbag deployment velocity is probably >300 ft/sec!!!

i didn't get pictures of actually removing from the steering wheel, but it's pretty staight forward when you get it loose from the wheel.

1. there are 2 torx T-30 screws that are on fairly tight from the back of the steering wheel. be patient, it takes some time to get them out!.

2. The horn positive lead is held in the steering wheel by a plastic twist lock. just push & turn about a 1/4 turn to remove. unbolt the negative lead from the grounding eye.

3. I didn't bother with the SIR disassembly instructions in the service manuals where they tell you disconnect fuses & connectors & blah blah since i've had my battery disconnected for some time now. The airbag plug just pulls straight away after unplugging the plastic lock retainer.

4. Now that we have the horn/airbag module out, here's what we do next. Remove the 4 nuts on back.




5. Remove the metal retainer.




6. Now carefully pry the rubber apart on all 4 sides while lifting the airbag assembly out.




7. Now get a razor blade and with just a little pressure cut through the center of the molded rubber holding the nylon plates on. Don't cut the outboard ones like i did in this picture!!! All you need to cut are the 6 in the inner 2 columns!!




8. you should be able to separate the molded rubber and pull the nylon plates though the slit you previously made. (from the center & not the outside like i have shown!)




9. Ok with the horn membranes out, i checked both sides..Sure enough it was the rh side. Notice it's not an open circuit after removing finger.





10. I forgot to get a picture of the next step, but there's nothing to it...I separated the plastic from the bad membrane side and put 2 layers of electrical tape on the whole copper conducter for that side. effectively isolating it. this was easier than cutting & soldering. now the piece taped back together.


11. Its a pain in the *** to get the nylon plates back into the cover, but it's not impossible..just use a nice big bladed flathead screwdriver to
push it into the cut rubber where it used to be..
check it after putting back into cover & super glueing the rubber
together.

Success!!! (for now until this one fails also!!)