radar502

Replacing the Diff . in my 04 just looking for some helpful tips for the job . I do lots of my own work but never did a C-5 Diff. looks like a straight forward deal.. The tunnel plate come out or stay in ???…I have read were it does not have to come out ??? Thanks

zeevette

You should remove the tunnel plate. When the TT drops when you lower the cradle; it will kind of rest on the plate. Since it's easier to just lower the rear sub as a unit...

radar502

Thanks, I was hopeing for someone to say no... O-WELL I guess if you own a C-5 and work on it removeing the plate is just something you got to do sooner or later .. I guessing there is enough play in the motor mounts to let it drop down to remove the Diff.. Thanks... I have a 04 Z16 Zo-6 can't do too much to it ,that's a good thing.. Got to set a goal and a how much you going to spend and try to stick to it ..Right ...

bing44

I just did the transmission and rear end on my '02 and like an idiot didn't look at my clutch and now I have to do it all over again.

I have a file with some pretty good guidelines when removing these parts that I can email to you if you want it. It's called Dope's clutch removal. You have to drop the rear carrier ***'y. to get it out, and the car has to be high enough to slide the unit out the back and clear the trunk bottom. I have a 4 post lift so working under the car isn't so challenging. Too bad you don't live closer. We could both learn.

jim '02 Z06

zeevette

Yeah, I didn't have to touch the motor mounts when I replaced my diff, and added braces at the same time.

neutron82

you will have to remove the tunnel plate to let the torque tube come down when you lower the rear end, you shouldn't have to mess with the motor mounts... might be a good idea to remove your shifter so it isn't in the way... other than that just remove the rear upper shock bolts, upper control arm bolts, remove the calipers and tie them out of the way, remove the e-brake cables, pop out the axles from the diff, unclip the brake lines and harness from the cradle and top of diff/trans, then remove the cradle nuts and slowly lower it until the top of the diff is about level with the bottom of the trunk tub... if it were me I would remove the torque tube from the trans and pull the diff/trans together and then work on replacing the diff with the whole assembly out of the car... if you have a pfadt rear diff brace you will need to remove that and temporarily install the stock mount before you pull everything, the brake lines run under the pfadt mount and will not clear unless it is removed

Bill Curlee

When you tilt the drive train down,,, BE CAREFUL! There is a LIMIT on the angle you can lower it to. If you go too far, the intake manifold will crash into the fire wall and damage the fire wall or the manifold.

You didnt say why you want to remove the Diff. While you have it out, you might want to consider up grading the internals to C6 ZO6 hardware, You can improve the output shafts, clutches and limited slip belleview springs (which will most likely be cracked)

Here are some killer posts on the whole process. Its fairly easy and doesnt cost to to much compared to the improvement you get! It doesnt even disturb the internal differential clearances. I did the up-grade and it was a SUCCESS!

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
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- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
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I also included one post on replacing the output shaft seals. That is almost a MUST DO or you will have a leak when you are done...

PS,,, Its also a VERY GOOD picture tutorial on differential removal also. Thought you would enjoy it.

Another NOTE!
I recommend replacing the VENT on top of the differential. The little rubber disk inside gets old and nasty and wont seal or vent properly.

Instead of unclipping the brake lines from the cradle,, (Which is a royal pain in the ***) there are TWO unions (one on each line) that you can easily seperate and the lines stay on the cradle when its removed. Just do a simple rear brake caliper bleed when you are done.

Bill

Bill Curlee

It’s also a great time to change the ATF fluid in the manual trans if it never been changed. You will be surprised how much it helps the shift feel with new fresh fluid.... I recommend AMSOIL Torque Drive ATF. EXCELLENT STUFF!

Make sure that you get a differential gear lube that has the correct clutch slip additive or purchase the additive and add it yourself.

The MN6/MN12 trans takes 3.75 quarts. Actually 4 but you can’t get the last .25 out when you drain it.

radar502

Thanks for all the input .. I sure do not want to have to do this but one time , so I am going to look at all the dos and don't to make sure it's right for now seals for sure I hate a leak.. I have help coming so yea.. for that... A shop here in Houston a real Corvette shop (There is a few want to bes around here) said $600.00 for the deal ?? I don't think it's a realy big job just have to be careful ...On the C-6 parts it's just got 360 WRHP so not a big HP hot rod the rear should be fine for now ,I got to go back in this fall and do a cluch am putting 100 more Hp.. might put some HD stuff in then... The hump well sounds like something I might just take it out do I realy need a hump ..I know how to work with glass ..Thinking..Thanks for all the input sure helps when you think you got it but no sure... can always use some help... PS just talked to the real shop guy said C-5 rears are going to be hard to fine soon GM stoped makeing them and the way people are brakeing them going to be hard to come by cheap just FYI...Thanks..

radar502

Thanks sure send what you got wil be doing a cluch this fall ...spazianimike@aim.com Thanks..