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How to lower my c5 zo6 on stock bolts???

Old 04-14-2014, 06:44 PM
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chris crash
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Default How to lower my c5 zo6 on stock bolts???

Hi there. I always hear the term, "Lowered on stock bolts."
Is there a how to thread?
Thanks
Chris
Old 04-14-2014, 07:00 PM
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Smoken1
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Here is 1 thread of many-
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ock-bolts.html
Old 04-15-2014, 09:37 PM
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old stingray
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Originally Posted by Smoken1
Old 04-15-2014, 11:46 PM
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rob-cyn
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First thing you need to do is learn how do search for info on here. Lol
If you can think about doing it, there is a write up on here on how to do it
Old 04-16-2014, 01:04 AM
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racebum
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make sure to take before and after measurements on the same ground and measure multiple places. if you get a corner 1/4" off for example you'll shift over 100lbs of weight

if you use the fenders the popcicle stick method is much more accurate than eyeballing. you use a stick across the rim of the fender and run the tape to the stick. prevents your eyes from messing with you as you can touch the stick to the tape
Old 04-16-2014, 07:45 AM
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CSwanson
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you don't do it by measuring to the body/fender from the ground. The car was set up at factory for correct corner weight. In order to not screw this up you want to back off each bolt (front and rear) the same amount of turns so you keep current corner weight distribution. This way you keep the rake the same also. I looked at both front bolts and saw which one would be the least I could back out. The front left could only be backed out 2.5 turns. I then backed out all four corners 2.5 turns. Easy to move back to stock setting now in future also. A search will reveal is this the best method. good luck.

Last edited by CSwanson; 04-16-2014 at 07:48 AM.
Old 04-16-2014, 05:13 PM
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04silverZ06
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I've also read that it takes some time for it to settle. So it's best to puts some miles on her before you get an alignment.
Old 04-16-2014, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CSwanson
you don't do it by measuring to the body/fender from the ground. The car was set up at factory for correct corner weight. In order to not screw this up you want to back off each bolt (front and rear) the same amount of turns so you keep current corner weight distribution. This way you keep the rake the same also. I looked at both front bolts and saw which one would be the least I could back out. The front left could only be backed out 2.5 turns. I then backed out all four corners 2.5 turns. Easy to move back to stock setting now in future also. A search will reveal is this the best method. good luck.
a search that people do the fender method all the time?

it's not ideal but you can get the hubs within an 1/8th if you're skilled

a proper set of scales is really the only way to do the car correctly
Old 04-16-2014, 06:43 PM
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CSwanson
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Originally Posted by racebum
a search that people do the fender method all the time?

it's not ideal but you can get the hubs within an 1/8th if you're skilled

a proper set of scales is really the only way to do the car correctly
I should have said a search that you need to put the time into sifting through good and bad info. People do the fender method all the time doesn't mean its right like you know. You can't search for an answer and go by the first few posts you read, etc. From all the posts I read, turning each bolt the same amount of threads is the best (and easiest) method. Of course scales are best but obviously most don't have.
Old 04-16-2014, 09:16 PM
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racebum
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Originally Posted by CSwanson
I should have said a search that you need to put the time into sifting through good and bad info. People do the fender method all the time doesn't mean its right like you know. You can't search for an answer and go by the first few posts you read, etc. From all the posts I read, turning each bolt the same amount of threads is the best (and easiest) method. Of course scales are best but obviously most don't have.
it's really not, as the springs have aged turns don't always lower the same amount. if the car has previously been lowered your baseline is also off. i did that same turn method and wound up being off over a 1/4" corner to corner.

fenders vary car to car and with some cars {like mine} they are accurate as checked against the knuckles. the problem with fenders is if one is set 1/4" higher on the body, which isn't uncommon, then you will be off on the knuckle, unless you check

you can also check the jacking points for a second reference
Old 04-16-2014, 09:38 PM
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CSwanson
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Originally Posted by racebum
it's really not, as the springs have aged turns don't always lower the same amount. if the car has previously been lowered your baseline is also off. i did that same turn method and wound up being off over a 1/4" corner to corner.

fenders vary car to car and with some cars {like mine} they are accurate as checked against the knuckles. the problem with fenders is if one is set 1/4" higher on the body, which isn't uncommon, then you will be off on the knuckle, unless you check

you can also check the jacking points for a second reference
of course everything is off if car has been lowered and its wasn't documented how much. And yes fenders vary from car to car and side to side so yes they'd need to measured back to frame if gong to be used as a ref point. I stand by my suggestion to the original poster as a car guy who's done the job and as a mechanical engineer. Anyways good luck to the original poster and have fun modding your car. best wishes
Old 04-16-2014, 11:14 PM
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Angel Garza
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wait you mean to tell me you can lower the C5 suspension just by turning the bolts ???
No shim or additional equipment is required ? I just got mine last July and am new to all this. :o

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