bjones7131

Did u have to drop headers and exhaust all the way out the back. I heard of one forum member doing it without dropping but he had stock headers.

JoeJ

I can't say what would be required with stock manifolds, but I had to take my aftermarket header loose at both ends, not getting around it.

robert1989

I can't sleep now, I have a corvette 1998 with 161,000 miles outside that has had 0 engine problems thus far and now I'm losing sleep over a starter. Which I will be checking before I go to sleep.

Before I do so I would like to point out that if you remove the header I believe you could get at the starter mounts from up top and just weld the **** out of it without thinking twice. Since the material has such a low melting temp you could use a crap 120 dollar welding and do it with decent results. I am just thinking out-loud of course. It is a starter, not a rocket engine.

racebum

i wondered why my new delco starter looked a little different than the oem

dadaroo

Yeah, sure sounds like you need some sleep.

bjones7131

I don't think I will be changing mine just to be changing it. From what I have read there isn't a high % of this happening but who knows. I think welding the block is a little more involved than using a cheap buz box. I have a buz box and can do a decent job of welding but I wouldn't touch this.

YO-EL

Does sound when car turns off sound like a bad starter?
Maybe not disengaging or something?

What is this noise?
Happens on shut down only...
Other than that, car is running fine..

95wht6spd

Maybe not disengaging, it is on correct side. I have read where they do this, and make a similar noise. If you have never changed starter, may be worth it now to check that issue, and put in new style starter.

racebum

a new delco unit is something like 140 shipped on amazon with no core

robert1989

Not like I would volunteer my car for the job, I ordered a new starter last night lol. 50 Dollars is not worth the headache.

KAGEY228

Thanks for the information!

neutron82

or a bosch for a little over $100, that's what I used and it has been working great... I did mine when I installed the clutch... I didn't have any starter problems but I figured I might as well do it for peace of mind and while my headers were out of the way... I also bought a sheet of adhesive heat shield to cover the housing of the starter and my headers are coated so that should keep it happy for awhile

LoneStarFRC

Same for me. New Bosch. Bolted right up.

dpsmps

I had the broke block starter mount problem. The small bolt ear broke first then ran for a long while unknown. Then the block bolt mount broke. I made a step block from the M6 transmission bell housing bolt next to the starter to the long bolt hole of the starter. I threaded the long starter bolt hole with a 1/2 - 13 tap 2" deep in the existing size hole then drilled and tapped M6 housing hole deep at 3/8 - 16. I made a step block with an ear to go from hole to hole. I used a Bridgeport manual mill to machine the step block I added about .005 to the step to give it some compression when the bolts were tightened down. I had to take a 90 deg die grinder with a sand disk to touch off on the starter to make flat and M6 housing bolt spot for flatness of step block mount. I also had to round the edge of block to clear the borla exhaust from rubbing. Worked great and no welding or pulling of motor ect

dadaroo

Very impressive. I like the way you think.

bjones7131

Pics would be great to see that fix dpsmps, kinda hard to vizulize that but I got the gest of it.

dpsmps

Sorry, I have a photo to better see and understand but not one of the block on me but I will get one and repost it. I also have dimensions and can make a drawing and repost this weekend. I will say the step on my car measured .52 I made mine .525 . Here is a photo (turned to the side) of the two bolt holes. if you imagine a square tab coming off the M6 tranny hole (tapped 3/8-16 and bolted down) then stepping down .525 to the starter as a block (kind of L shape) then going over to starter bolt hole with bolt hole in it (bolted to starter after tapping starter hole 1/2-13 very deep because its aluminum. top of the block remains flat with bottom of block has step. Looking at the picture you will see that the holes from factory have slight counter bore marks in a circular ridges. I took a 90deg die grinder with a sandpaper pad and gently touched off on both bolt spots to make the area flat so block will sit flat. I had to round the corner of the block in a pretty good radius to clear exhaust. I used a good hard bolts like a M8 (grade 8) hex head. I used dial calipers, where I could, to get the various dimensions and a tape measure to get the rest. As a side note you can see part of the broke block on the top of starter.

SG Lou

I tend to believe what Paul Koerner, GM World Class Certified Service Technician has to say on the subject......"First, the fact that the short/long bolt starter is any less reliable is garbage. There is not one documented test that there has ever been an issue."
Want to read the whole story ?

http://www.thecorvettemechanic.com/f...arter-question

Long bolt or Short bolt...that is not the issue . It's the crappy design of the mounting boss on the block.

robert1989

This topic should be deleted for the safety of members who thought y'all knew what you were talking about.

I broke the starter bolt in the piece that breaks off according to this thread.

laurent_zo6

Read all I could on the subject. I came to the conclusion that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." That means, don't replace it unless you have issues.
In addition if your starter does fail, try to have it rebuilt as a new one might not fit properly. Also make sure all the bolts are properly torqued as this might be one of the consequences resulting in a broken block.