C5 sunvisor fuse
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
C5 sunvisor fuse
I have a 2002 C5 Vert.
I installed homelink garage door openers into my visors
which worked fine all last summer and fall
but after finishing my winter project I seem to have lost
power to the visors including the vanity lights.
I checked all the fuses and replaced one that was blown but
that has not fixed my problem.
Anyone know which fuse it might be for the sunvisors?
I suppose I could hook the visors to another constant circuit
but wanted to see if there was a simpler solution.
I installed homelink garage door openers into my visors
which worked fine all last summer and fall
but after finishing my winter project I seem to have lost
power to the visors including the vanity lights.
I checked all the fuses and replaced one that was blown but
that has not fixed my problem.
Anyone know which fuse it might be for the sunvisors?
I suppose I could hook the visors to another constant circuit
but wanted to see if there was a simpler solution.
#2
Le Mans Master
If I recall correctly (not at home with the schematics) there are 2 I/P fuse box fuses that control the vanity mirror lights.
Fuse 2 and 29. One is for manual operation and the other for the automatic control.
Fuse 29 should say Diagnostics which is misleading.
Helped someone this past week with a similar issue. You would never figure out that was a fuse for the lights without the FSM.
Let me know how it goes and if that does not fix it I will see what the issue may be. Have your verified the bulbs and connector are good?
EDIT:
Back at home: I was wrong on Fuse 29. Fuse 2 and 29 serve the inside rearview mirror. Fuse 2 however does also serve the vanity mirrors and under hood light.
Fuse 2 and 29. One is for manual operation and the other for the automatic control.
Fuse 29 should say Diagnostics which is misleading.
Helped someone this past week with a similar issue. You would never figure out that was a fuse for the lights without the FSM.
Let me know how it goes and if that does not fix it I will see what the issue may be. Have your verified the bulbs and connector are good?
EDIT:
Back at home: I was wrong on Fuse 29. Fuse 2 and 29 serve the inside rearview mirror. Fuse 2 however does also serve the vanity mirrors and under hood light.
Last edited by dadaroo; 04-05-2014 at 08:30 AM.
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
If I recall correctly (not at home with the schematics) there are 2 I/P fuse box fuses that control the vanity mirror lights.
Fuse 2 and 29. One is for manual operation and the other for the automatic control.
Fuse 29 should say Diagnostics which is misleading.
Helped someone this past week with a similar issue. You would never figure out that was a fuse for the lights without the FSM.
Let me know how it goes and if that does not fix it I will see what the issue may be. Have your verified the bulbs and connector are good?
Fuse 2 and 29. One is for manual operation and the other for the automatic control.
Fuse 29 should say Diagnostics which is misleading.
Helped someone this past week with a similar issue. You would never figure out that was a fuse for the lights without the FSM.
Let me know how it goes and if that does not fix it I will see what the issue may be. Have your verified the bulbs and connector are good?
Thanks for your help.
I'll look into this tomorrow again some more.
I'm recovering from surgery right now for the next few weeks so I am limited in what I can do and only for 2 hrs at a time.
This morning I checked all the fuses in the footwell and next to the battery by pulling them out with needle nose vice grips.
I replaced a bad fuse and the rest seemed good but that didn't fix my problem.
Both visors went dead at the same time including the 2 Homelink remotes so I don't think it's a connector problem.
My light under the hood stopped working as well.
I clipped my old garage door openers on the visor so I'm ok for now.
It's the openers I need, the vanity lights not so much.
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Fuse 2 in the I/P fuse box is called Monitored(Inadvertant) load. It controls items that easily get left powered up inadverantly by turning off power to them after a period of time.. Specifically the Visor vanity lights, the underhood light, the rear view map mirror and the Glove box light. Relay #37 in the same fuse box is a part of that system.
#5
Le Mans Master
If you have original design type fuses you don't need to pull them. You can measure voltage in and out of the fuse from the top. Makes the job so much easier.
#6
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#7
Le Mans Master
If you look at the top of the fuse there is a little bit of metal exposed on each end. You measure the voltage from there.
Looking at fuses is not the way to go, they don't always fail so you can see. Doing an ohmmeter check when removed is better. Checking voltage into and out of the fuse while powered is the best way.
Looking at fuses is not the way to go, they don't always fail so you can see. Doing an ohmmeter check when removed is better. Checking voltage into and out of the fuse while powered is the best way.
The following users liked this post:
rwsyclone (08-26-2019)
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
If you look at the top of the fuse there is a little bit of metal exposed on each end. You measure the voltage from there.
Looking at fuses is not the way to go, they don't always fail so you can see. Doing an ohmmeter check when removed is better. Checking voltage into and out of the fuse while powered is the best way.
Looking at fuses is not the way to go, they don't always fail so you can see. Doing an ohmmeter check when removed is better. Checking voltage into and out of the fuse while powered is the best way.
Thanks for the explanation.
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help.
This time when I checked it fuse 2 was blown. Fuse 29 was ok.
Replacing fuse 2 brought back power to the visors and my 2 Homelinks.
So I'm glad that's fixed.
However the underhood light still doesn't work so I think I'm going to run it to a separate fused circuit with a switch inside the battery box.
I don't really need the light on every time I open the hood but I may add a second light on the other side or even run 2 lights per side for when I may want to use the underhood light.
This time when I checked it fuse 2 was blown. Fuse 29 was ok.
Replacing fuse 2 brought back power to the visors and my 2 Homelinks.
So I'm glad that's fixed.
However the underhood light still doesn't work so I think I'm going to run it to a separate fused circuit with a switch inside the battery box.
I don't really need the light on every time I open the hood but I may add a second light on the other side or even run 2 lights per side for when I may want to use the underhood light.
#10
Le Mans Master
Fuse 2 also serves the under hood light so you better make sure the bulb is actually good. If not the bulb it is probably the actual switch that activates the light.
PS: I was wrong on Fuse 29. Fuse 2 and 29 serve the inside rearview mirror. Fuse 2 however does also serve the vanity mirrors and under hood light.
PS: I was wrong on Fuse 29. Fuse 2 and 29 serve the inside rearview mirror. Fuse 2 however does also serve the vanity mirrors and under hood light.
#11
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Fuse 2 also serves the under hood light so you better make sure the bulb is actually good. If not the bulb it is probably the actual switch that activates the light.
PS: I was wrong on Fuse 29. Fuse 2 and 29 serve the inside rearview mirror. Fuse 2 however does also sever the vanity mirrors and under hood light.
PS: I was wrong on Fuse 29. Fuse 2 and 29 serve the inside rearview mirror. Fuse 2 however does also sever the vanity mirrors and under hood light.
Do you know where the switch is?
#12
Le Mans Master
My FSM shows the switch is internal to the light housing. It must be a weight switch type design so when the hood is raised the switch closes. You can use a voltmeter to check if you have voltage to the housing and if the switch contacts close. Could be the ground side of the circuit but I don't think so. You can test that circuit side too.
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I only had 8 volts coming out of the wiring for the hood light
so I got a 20" LED strip, 2 8" LED strips and an LED pad to fit into the factory light housing at Autozone and ran a new fused circuit through a switch at the battery compartment to turn the lights on when I need them.
Some spray glue on the liner made the 2 way tape on the 20" stick
real good.
I added an accessible connector to make it easy to remove the hood
It's a huge improvement
so I got a 20" LED strip, 2 8" LED strips and an LED pad to fit into the factory light housing at Autozone and ran a new fused circuit through a switch at the battery compartment to turn the lights on when I need them.
Some spray glue on the liner made the 2 way tape on the 20" stick
real good.
I added an accessible connector to make it easy to remove the hood
It's a huge improvement
#14
Le Mans Master
Damn, that is an impressive looking setup. And trust me, I am normally highly critical of most mods that are visible. Who ever made that large valve cover assembly did a super great job.
Slim Pickens would have been proud to ride that big boy.
Slim Pickens would have been proud to ride that big boy.
#15
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Ah yes Dr Strangelove, my handle and
one of my favorite movies
It's an RK Sport cover that usually comes all carbon fiber.
I bought it off a guy on ebay who painted it silver then didn't like it
but I think it looks better with the carbon fiber just in the middle especially since it matched the color of my car.
I just added the 1/8" chrome trim tape and the 4 hold down ***** I got from Pep Boys.
one of my favorite movies
It's an RK Sport cover that usually comes all carbon fiber.
I bought it off a guy on ebay who painted it silver then didn't like it
but I think it looks better with the carbon fiber just in the middle especially since it matched the color of my car.
I just added the 1/8" chrome trim tape and the 4 hold down ***** I got from Pep Boys.