Heads/Cam guys, oil weight?
#2
Safety Car
I ran a cam only car for many years with 5W30. Recently lost the camshaft and lifters. I replaced the engine with short block from Texas Speed and will probably be running a heavier oil down the road ~15W50 or so because the clearances on the new engine are much larger than the factory specs.
#4
Safety Car
If you're running an aftermarket cam; I would suggest using a Zinc/phosphorus additive to the newer oils to prevent cam/lifter failure or find an oil that has at least 1000 ppm zinc in it. I learned the hard way so you don't have to.
#5
Le Mans Master
Not necessary with a roller cam, especially if you are using GM lifters. The additive is meant for solid lifters or flat tappets. I'd bet dollars to donuts the zinc content of your oil, provided you weren't using some BS like recycled dino oil, had nothing to do with your lifter or cam failing. Unless you are digging in to the bottom of the motor and changing bearings and bearing clearances there is no reason to run anything other than what the factory recommends or something comparable.
#6
Instructor
I have a built block and have been running rotella 5w40 synthetic in it since the break in oil. No problems, spinning up to 7,300. The zinc and zddp contents aren't just for flat tappet older engines. Much controversy as always with motor oil but to each their own
#7
Le Mans Master
I didn't say built motor. A cam swap does not constitute a built motor. I've been running Redline 10W40 in my stroker for 7 years/40K miles with no issues. I broke it in on Rotella T Dino oil as my builder recommended.
#8
Pro
I'm a fan of Castrol Edge myself. Reduces the valve train noise greatly.
Also Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30. Has all the zinc you need.
You couldn't pay me to run any additive in my oil.
Also Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30. Has all the zinc you need.
You couldn't pay me to run any additive in my oil.
#9
Safety Car
Redline, according the LGM, does have higher Zinc and phosphorus content compared to the current Off the shelf oils. Which is why they recommend using it (Redline) with their aggressive cam packages.
#10
Safety Car
I can't speak to the Castrol Edge but the Valvoline VR 1 does contain enough zinc and zddp to protect internal components of modified engines. So does Mobil 1 0w40. But, because the VR1 is a race oil, it does not contain as many detergents and will need to be changed quite often whether you drive the car or not.
Last edited by Z06ufgrad2002; 01-27-2014 at 06:07 PM.
#11
Team Owner
Not necessary with a roller cam, especially if you are using GM lifters. The additive is meant for solid lifters or flat tappets. I'd bet dollars to donuts the zinc content of your oil, provided you weren't using some BS like recycled dino oil, had nothing to do with your lifter or cam failing. Unless you are digging in to the bottom of the motor and changing bearings and bearing clearances there is no reason to run anything other than what the factory recommends or something comparable.
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2012
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Or its what they'd like you to believe to sell their product. We do live in a society that buys countless worthless products because we are made to believe in them. Take this gluten free BS sweeping the nation for example. Yet everyone is sure, they are healthier for eating gluten free. Look, countless people run 5w30 and have no issues right? Proof enough. Then consider the very design of the system. (A pressure fed system that creates a hydro dynamic wedge between moving parts). Impossible for metal to metal contact to occur. To each their own. But a roller cam setup especially will be fine with 5w30 because the clearances are the same, and no additives need changed because there is no metal to metal contact taking place. Just my honest opinion
#13
Thanks for the good info guys, I appreciate it. For now I think I'll continue running 5w30 unless someone has hard evidence that any other grade would be better with heads/cam. It seems that most of you who did switch to another grade switched because of the additive content, correct? I'm not bashing anyone's preferences, I would just personally rather not switch unless there's solid evidence of a different grade being better for our particular set up
#15
Racer
Or its what they'd like you to believe to sell their product. We do live in a society that buys countless worthless products because we are made to believe in them. Take this gluten free BS sweeping the nation for example. Yet everyone is sure, they are healthier for eating gluten free. Look, countless people run 5w30 and have no issues right? Proof enough. Then consider the very design of the system. (A pressure fed system that creates a hydro dynamic wedge between moving parts). Impossible for metal to metal contact to occur. To each their own. But a roller cam setup especially will be fine with 5w30 because the clearances are the same, and no additives need changed because there is no metal to metal contact taking place. Just my honest opinion
That's all find and dandy till you read the 5w30 that the ls1 was designed for, isn't the same 5w30 it use to be. For that reason I've picked an oil that similar to what the 5w30 use to be with regard to the additive package and not just viscosity alone.
#16
Race Director
A cam swap is enough of a change to require different oil. It really depends on the cam and how aggressive the lobes are and which valve springs are used. All these items will increase the pressure and stress between the cam lobe and the lifter roller far beyond the factory spec and potentially exceeding the factory spec oil which has changed since most of our cars were manufactured.
Redline, according the LGM, does have higher Zinc and phosphorus content compared to the current Off the shelf oils. Which is why they recommend using it (Redline) with their aggressive cam packages.
Redline, according the LGM, does have higher Zinc and phosphorus content compared to the current Off the shelf oils. Which is why they recommend using it (Redline) with their aggressive cam packages.
Comp cams now ships a bottle of "Zinc, zddp additive" with their cams because today's off the shelf oils do not have enough of those properties in them to properly break the new cam in. They even recommend you add another bottle of the additive during the first oil change following a new cam installation.
I can't speak to the Castrol Edge but the Valvoline VR 1 does contain enough zinc and zddp to protect internal components of modified engines. So does Mobil 1 0w40. But, because the VR1 is a race oil, it does contain as many detergents and will need to be changed quite often whether you drive the car or not.
I can't speak to the Castrol Edge but the Valvoline VR 1 does contain enough zinc and zddp to protect internal components of modified engines. So does Mobil 1 0w40. But, because the VR1 is a race oil, it does contain as many detergents and will need to be changed quite often whether you drive the car or not.
many oil makers publish their zddp levels. any 30w that's api SM or SN is limited to 800ppm, api SL is something like 1200 which is what products like mobil1 high mileage are
redline has even more, somewhere around 1800ppm if i remember right, and, it's an ester base which is stable in very high temperatures. beings it's the same price as other premium oils redline always seemed like the best value chemically speaking
#19
Team Owner
Thanks for the good info guys, I appreciate it. For now I think I'll continue running 5w30 unless someone has hard evidence that any other grade would be better with heads/cam. It seems that most of you who did switch to another grade switched because of the additive content, correct? I'm not bashing anyone's preferences, I would just personally rather not switch unless there's solid evidence of a different grade being better for our particular set up
On a side note, I run 5W30 Mobil-1 High Mileage two of my older cars because the viscosity is again higher within the 30W range and because it maintains an additive package that doesn't meet the new SN requirements but is also closer to that Mobil-1 available when the cars were built. Not too worried about the converters in them at this point in time.
#20
Safety Car