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Heads/Cam guys, oil weight?

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Old 01-25-2014, 07:49 PM
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Dcollins3208
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Default Heads/Cam guys, oil weight?

Are you guys still running 5w30 or did you switch to a different weight? If you switched, why?
Old 01-25-2014, 08:09 PM
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Z06ufgrad2002
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I ran a cam only car for many years with 5W30. Recently lost the camshaft and lifters. I replaced the engine with short block from Texas Speed and will probably be running a heavier oil down the road ~15W50 or so because the clearances on the new engine are much larger than the factory specs.
Old 01-25-2014, 09:38 PM
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NukeC5
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The called for 5w30 is fine. I run it with my cam setup. Clearances aren't changed, so there's no need to change viscosity.
Old 01-25-2014, 09:55 PM
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Z06ufgrad2002
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
The called for 5w30 is fine. I run it with my cam setup. Clearances aren't changed, so there's no need to change viscosity.
If you're running an aftermarket cam; I would suggest using a Zinc/phosphorus additive to the newer oils to prevent cam/lifter failure or find an oil that has at least 1000 ppm zinc in it. I learned the hard way so you don't have to.
Old 01-25-2014, 10:04 PM
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Mike94ZLT1
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
If you're running an aftermarket cam; I would suggest using a Zinc/phosphorus additive to the newer oils to prevent cam/lifter failure or find an oil that has at least 1000 ppm zinc in it. I learned the hard way so you don't have to.
Not necessary with a roller cam, especially if you are using GM lifters. The additive is meant for solid lifters or flat tappets. I'd bet dollars to donuts the zinc content of your oil, provided you weren't using some BS like recycled dino oil, had nothing to do with your lifter or cam failing. Unless you are digging in to the bottom of the motor and changing bearings and bearing clearances there is no reason to run anything other than what the factory recommends or something comparable.
Old 01-25-2014, 10:21 PM
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Ice95z
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I have a built block and have been running rotella 5w40 synthetic in it since the break in oil. No problems, spinning up to 7,300. The zinc and zddp contents aren't just for flat tappet older engines. Much controversy as always with motor oil but to each their own
Old 01-25-2014, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ice95z
I have a built block and have been running rotella 5w40 synthetic in it since the break in oil. No problems, spinning up to 7,300. The zinc and zddp contents aren't just for flat tappet older engines. Much controversy as always with motor oil but to each their own
I didn't say built motor. A cam swap does not constitute a built motor. I've been running Redline 10W40 in my stroker for 7 years/40K miles with no issues. I broke it in on Rotella T Dino oil as my builder recommended.
Old 01-26-2014, 07:51 AM
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dr_whigham
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I'm a fan of Castrol Edge myself. Reduces the valve train noise greatly.

Also Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30. Has all the zinc you need.

You couldn't pay me to run any additive in my oil.
Old 01-26-2014, 10:10 AM
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Z06ufgrad2002
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
I didn't say built motor. A cam swap does not constitute a built motor. I've been running Redline 10W40 in my stroker for 7 years/40K miles with no issues. I broke it in on Rotella T Dino oil as my builder recommended.
A cam swap is enough of a change to require different oil. It really depends on the cam and how aggressive the lobes are and which valve springs are used. All these items will increase the pressure and stress between the cam lobe and the lifter roller far beyond the factory spec and potentially exceeding the factory spec oil which has changed since most of our cars were manufactured.

Redline, according the LGM, does have higher Zinc and phosphorus content compared to the current Off the shelf oils. Which is why they recommend using it (Redline) with their aggressive cam packages.
Old 01-26-2014, 10:17 AM
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Z06ufgrad2002
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
I'm a fan of Castrol Edge myself. Reduces the valve train noise greatly.

Also Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30. Has all the zinc you need.

You couldn't pay me to run any additive in my oil.
Comp cams now ships a bottle of "Zinc, zddp additive" with their cams because today's off the shelf oils do not have enough of those properties in them to properly break the new cam in. They even recommend you add another bottle of the additive during the first oil change following a new cam installation.

I can't speak to the Castrol Edge but the Valvoline VR 1 does contain enough zinc and zddp to protect internal components of modified engines. So does Mobil 1 0w40. But, because the VR1 is a race oil, it does not contain as many detergents and will need to be changed quite often whether you drive the car or not.

Last edited by Z06ufgrad2002; 01-27-2014 at 06:07 PM.
Old 01-26-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Not necessary with a roller cam, especially if you are using GM lifters. The additive is meant for solid lifters or flat tappets. I'd bet dollars to donuts the zinc content of your oil, provided you weren't using some BS like recycled dino oil, had nothing to do with your lifter or cam failing. Unless you are digging in to the bottom of the motor and changing bearings and bearing clearances there is no reason to run anything other than what the factory recommends or something comparable.
I think that even though the cam may be a roller setup, pushrod end loads, etc. are much higher with aftermarket springs such that I prefer oil that keeps the higher levels of these additives. I am currently running Amsoil Z-Rod 10W30 for that reason. There are multiple other issues as well with non-stock setups, but for oil I prefer the better additive package, which doesn't meet the new API SN requirement.
Old 01-26-2014, 10:30 AM
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NukeC5
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Or its what they'd like you to believe to sell their product. We do live in a society that buys countless worthless products because we are made to believe in them. Take this gluten free BS sweeping the nation for example. Yet everyone is sure, they are healthier for eating gluten free. Look, countless people run 5w30 and have no issues right? Proof enough. Then consider the very design of the system. (A pressure fed system that creates a hydro dynamic wedge between moving parts). Impossible for metal to metal contact to occur. To each their own. But a roller cam setup especially will be fine with 5w30 because the clearances are the same, and no additives need changed because there is no metal to metal contact taking place. Just my honest opinion
Old 01-26-2014, 10:56 AM
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Dcollins3208
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Thanks for the good info guys, I appreciate it. For now I think I'll continue running 5w30 unless someone has hard evidence that any other grade would be better with heads/cam. It seems that most of you who did switch to another grade switched because of the additive content, correct? I'm not bashing anyone's preferences, I would just personally rather not switch unless there's solid evidence of a different grade being better for our particular set up
Old 01-26-2014, 02:14 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-oil-tech.html

Russ Kemp
Old 01-26-2014, 03:04 PM
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_r2h
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
Or its what they'd like you to believe to sell their product. We do live in a society that buys countless worthless products because we are made to believe in them. Take this gluten free BS sweeping the nation for example. Yet everyone is sure, they are healthier for eating gluten free. Look, countless people run 5w30 and have no issues right? Proof enough. Then consider the very design of the system. (A pressure fed system that creates a hydro dynamic wedge between moving parts). Impossible for metal to metal contact to occur. To each their own. But a roller cam setup especially will be fine with 5w30 because the clearances are the same, and no additives need changed because there is no metal to metal contact taking place. Just my honest opinion

That's all find and dandy till you read the 5w30 that the ls1 was designed for, isn't the same 5w30 it use to be. For that reason I've picked an oil that similar to what the 5w30 use to be with regard to the additive package and not just viscosity alone.
Old 01-26-2014, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
A cam swap is enough of a change to require different oil. It really depends on the cam and how aggressive the lobes are and which valve springs are used. All these items will increase the pressure and stress between the cam lobe and the lifter roller far beyond the factory spec and potentially exceeding the factory spec oil which has changed since most of our cars were manufactured.

Redline, according the LGM, does have higher Zinc and phosphorus content compared to the current Off the shelf oils. Which is why they recommend using it (Redline) with their aggressive cam packages.
this

Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
Comp cams now ships a bottle of "Zinc, zddp additive" with their cams because today's off the shelf oils do not have enough of those properties in them to properly break the new cam in. They even recommend you add another bottle of the additive during the first oil change following a new cam installation.

I can't speak to the Castrol Edge but the Valvoline VR 1 does contain enough zinc and zddp to protect internal components of modified engines. So does Mobil 1 0w40. But, because the VR1 is a race oil, it does contain as many detergents and will need to be changed quite often whether you drive the car or not.
and this

many oil makers publish their zddp levels. any 30w that's api SM or SN is limited to 800ppm, api SL is something like 1200 which is what products like mobil1 high mileage are

redline has even more, somewhere around 1800ppm if i remember right, and, it's an ester base which is stable in very high temperatures. beings it's the same price as other premium oils redline always seemed like the best value chemically speaking
Old 01-26-2014, 07:14 PM
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Joe Gibbs LS30 oil

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Old 01-26-2014, 09:53 PM
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Mobil 0-40
Old 01-27-2014, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Dcollins3208
Thanks for the good info guys, I appreciate it. For now I think I'll continue running 5w30 unless someone has hard evidence that any other grade would be better with heads/cam. It seems that most of you who did switch to another grade switched because of the additive content, correct? I'm not bashing anyone's preferences, I would just personally rather not switch unless there's solid evidence of a different grade being better for our particular set up
I went to 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod due to additives and the viscosity at 100 degrees is high in the 30 range rather than low. This was in support of the much higher valve spring forces required for the H/C setup. I had previously run the German Castrol 0W30, which is also higher within the 30W range.

On a side note, I run 5W30 Mobil-1 High Mileage two of my older cars because the viscosity is again higher within the 30W range and because it maintains an additive package that doesn't meet the new SN requirements but is also closer to that Mobil-1 available when the cars were built. Not too worried about the converters in them at this point in time.
Old 01-27-2014, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by _r2h
That's all find and dandy till you read the 5w30 that the ls1 was designed for, isn't the same 5w30 it use to be. For that reason I've picked an oil that similar to what the 5w30 use to be with regard to the additive package and not just viscosity alone.
Bingo!!!!!


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