Pro's / Cons - Oil Cap Breather.... ?
#21
Melting Slicks
I've run a few differnet configurations as well as the best ever Catch Cans. Blown out the dip stick a couple of times, filled the Intake manifold to my current setup. That is no good either, Open loop breather oil cap.
I'm also a 600 RW stroker that isn't skeered to see 7K rpm more than once while out for a pleasant mountain cruise
Driving styles are a factor with CC configurations, so that is important when listening to what works & the ones that do not.
We are buried in snow, I need to do a clutch change & on go my list of excuses. I like what I've read here & would like to eplore this link option further....maybe you have time
http://mightym0use.wix.com/mm-solutions#!mm-og/ca5m
I'm also a 600 RW stroker that isn't skeered to see 7K rpm more than once while out for a pleasant mountain cruise
Driving styles are a factor with CC configurations, so that is important when listening to what works & the ones that do not.
We are buried in snow, I need to do a clutch change & on go my list of excuses. I like what I've read here & would like to eplore this link option further....maybe you have time
http://mightym0use.wix.com/mm-solutions#!mm-og/ca5m
#22
Race Director
That looks like the one I have. I got mine from ECS. No oily mess.
#23
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies guys !
I don't race my car, I drive it pretty tame around Dallas to be honest.
Its just a weekend fun car for me.
I have a catch can already for the crank case vent. Years ago I discovered a bunch of oil in my intake manifold, and I wanted to eliminate that as much as I could. I have since found that most oil no longer goes in my intake manifold and is in the catch can. Problem fixed !
I'm just wanting to understand an alternative if I decide to remove and cap off the valve cover vent line (from the valve cover vent to my RED intake before the Throttle body)..... See pic below.
Keep in mind that MY LS2 Throttle body does NOT have an option to plug in the valve cover vent line.
I see that the cheepo coil cap breathers have a risk of leaking oil.
This model of oil cap breather below seems to have a lot of the issues resolved that most speak of above.
Am I missing something ? Maybe I'm not understanding something ?
http://www.c-f-m.com/performancepart...m#.UtWrU_teGVg
Thanks guys !
Toque
I don't race my car, I drive it pretty tame around Dallas to be honest.
Its just a weekend fun car for me.
I have a catch can already for the crank case vent. Years ago I discovered a bunch of oil in my intake manifold, and I wanted to eliminate that as much as I could. I have since found that most oil no longer goes in my intake manifold and is in the catch can. Problem fixed !
I'm just wanting to understand an alternative if I decide to remove and cap off the valve cover vent line (from the valve cover vent to my RED intake before the Throttle body)..... See pic below.
Keep in mind that MY LS2 Throttle body does NOT have an option to plug in the valve cover vent line.
I see that the cheepo coil cap breathers have a risk of leaking oil.
This model of oil cap breather below seems to have a lot of the issues resolved that most speak of above.
Am I missing something ? Maybe I'm not understanding something ?
CFM Performance now makes it easy to vent the crankcase on your Chevy LS series engine with our new billet valve cover breather kit. This kit is a direct replacement for your factory oil fill cap and allows unwanted crankcase pressure to exit.
This breather is the ONLY one in the market which incorporates a check ball to keep unmetered air from coming through while the crankcase is under vacuum. In other words, this breather acts just like a factory oil cap under normal driving conditions and when you get into boost it will release any crankcase pressure present.
This kit also has an integrated baffle to help contain any oil particles present in the engine rather than saturating the filter element and eventually leaking through like many other kits in the market.
The filter element is washable and has a chrome top for great looks. The pre-oiled cotton fiber traps dirt particles without restricting air flow.
This breather is the ONLY one in the market which incorporates a check ball to keep unmetered air from coming through while the crankcase is under vacuum. In other words, this breather acts just like a factory oil cap under normal driving conditions and when you get into boost it will release any crankcase pressure present.
This kit also has an integrated baffle to help contain any oil particles present in the engine rather than saturating the filter element and eventually leaking through like many other kits in the market.
The filter element is washable and has a chrome top for great looks. The pre-oiled cotton fiber traps dirt particles without restricting air flow.
Thanks guys !
Toque
#24
Melting Slicks
I just ordered it and will post up results.
#25
Burning Brakes
What i did with my old fast and ls2 tb is use 2 type of an fitting(aeroquip : #fbm1445 /# fcm1522)) and connect the valve cover hose to my air bridge.So the coupler got no hole in it and it look like the car came like that from factory.
I can take closer pics if you wanna see better.
I can take closer pics if you wanna see better.
Last edited by always faster; 01-15-2014 at 10:14 AM.
#26
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Thank you !
Toque
#28
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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I believe that filter you posted a couple of times is wrong for NA applications. On your engine the PVC valve will be pulling air out of the engine so the filter has to let air in.
You could also get a filter that goes on the end of that hose and route it somewhere you can hide it.
The LS2 throttle body doesn't have the connection point but the LS2 engine would still have a similar hose requirement so find out where that hose went on that engine and you'll have the answer of how it was done at the factory.
You could also get a filter that goes on the end of that hose and route it somewhere you can hide it.
The LS2 throttle body doesn't have the connection point but the LS2 engine would still have a similar hose requirement so find out where that hose went on that engine and you'll have the answer of how it was done at the factory.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 01-15-2014 at 02:52 PM.
#29
Drifting
Toque, I have nearly the same setup as you, and looked through some of your pictures and install tutorials when I ordered all my parts. I didn't want to put the air feed into my intake tube either, so I had my installer/fabricator build me a custom, dual vented catch can. He believes in good engine ventilation, especially for LS motors. We have it hooked up so BOTH of my valve covers get vented. No line to or from the intake tube. Both lines to the valve covers. See my pic. It was a more expensive option, but it's super high quality and is a nice touch too. Just wanted to give you another idea...
Last edited by Must_Have_Z; 01-16-2014 at 10:29 PM.
#30
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the ideas guys ! I love this place !
I'm thinking maybe of doing the following....
I have always worried about the connection into the red coupler.
I'm thinking of getting this 6an bulkhead connector.
A GOOD FIRM connector to my coupler.
Teflon seals on both sides to mount tight.
It should fit the existing hole in my coupler too.
Then go to this 90 degree 6an connector.
Then go to this black 6an connector.
The barb side will fit the 3/8" hose that goes in the valve cover.
Should cost me about $30.
Toque
I'm thinking maybe of doing the following....
I have always worried about the connection into the red coupler.
I'm thinking of getting this 6an bulkhead connector.
A GOOD FIRM connector to my coupler.
Teflon seals on both sides to mount tight.
It should fit the existing hole in my coupler too.
Then go to this 90 degree 6an connector.
Then go to this black 6an connector.
The barb side will fit the 3/8" hose that goes in the valve cover.
Should cost me about $30.
Toque
Last edited by Toque; 01-15-2014 at 04:58 PM.
#31
Melting Slicks
Thanks for the ideas guys ! I love this place !
I'm thinking maybe of doing the following....
I have always worried about the connection into the red coupler.
I'm thinking of getting this 6an bulkhead connector.
A GOOD FIRM connector to my coupler.
Teflon seals on both sides to mount tight.
It should fit the existing hole in my coupler too.
Then go to this 90 degree 6an connector.
Then go to this black 6an connector.
The barb side will fit the 3/8" hose that goes in the valve cover.
Should cost me about $30.
Toque
I'm thinking maybe of doing the following....
I have always worried about the connection into the red coupler.
I'm thinking of getting this 6an bulkhead connector.
A GOOD FIRM connector to my coupler.
Teflon seals on both sides to mount tight.
It should fit the existing hole in my coupler too.
Then go to this 90 degree 6an connector.
Then go to this black 6an connector.
The barb side will fit the 3/8" hose that goes in the valve cover.
Should cost me about $30.
Toque
Just a side note I'm going with the lower profile breather filter instead of the taller bee hive ECS style I currently have.
Last edited by Navybluevette; 01-15-2014 at 05:06 PM.
#32
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
I wouldn't run it to the coupler, but run it like "Always Faster" did to the air bridge, and go to the under side of the air bridge thus routing the hose under the LS2 TB.
Just a side note I'm going with the lower profile breather filter instead of the taller bee hive ECS style I currently have.
Just a side note I'm going with the lower profile breather filter instead of the taller bee hive ECS style I currently have.
Another think I have been told is that to make sure that the hose goes UP above the TB. That way IF oil gets in the tube it will go back into the valve cover, and not down the tube.
What lower profile filter are you looking at ?
Toque
Last edited by Toque; 01-15-2014 at 07:26 PM.
#33
Melting Slicks
My coupler does not have an area that is flat like his. I would worry that its not seating and creating a good seal. With the coupler it will stretch a little and I can be sure of a good seal.
Another think I have been told is that to make sure that the hose goes UP above the TB. That way IF oil gets in the tube it will go back into the valve cover, and not down the tube.
What lower profile filter are you looking at ?
Toque
Another think I have been told is that to make sure that the hose goes UP above the TB. That way IF oil gets in the tube it will go back into the valve cover, and not down the tube.
What lower profile filter are you looking at ?
Toque
I'm looking at the one you showed above from CFM Performance.
Last edited by Navybluevette; 01-15-2014 at 07:52 PM.
#34
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
It has to be higher than the valve cover port.
Thanks Frank !
Toque
#35
Burning Brakes
Ive used:
aeroquip : #fbm1445 (Fitting, Hose End, AQP Socketless, Straight, -6 AN Hose Barb to Male -6 AN, Steel,)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1445/
aeroquip : # fcm1522(Fitting, Hose End, 45 Degree, -6 AN, -6 AN Adapter, Aluminum, Red/Blue)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcm1522/overview/
A rubber grommet to go on the air bridge.
I did add some sceallant around the grommet just in case but everything is perfect and no oil in my intake or air bridge.
Last edited by always faster; 01-16-2014 at 02:29 AM.
#36
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Ill take some pics tomorrow.
Ive used:
aeroquip : #fbm1445 (Fitting, Hose End, AQP Socketless, Straight, -6 AN Hose Barb to Male -6 AN, Steel,)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1445/
aeroquip : # fcm1522(Fitting, Hose End, 45 Degree, -6 AN, -6 AN Adapter, Aluminum, Red/Blue)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcm1522/overview/
A rubber grommet to go on the air bridge.
I did add some sceallant around the grommet just in case but everything is perfect and no oil in my intake or air bridge.
Ive used:
aeroquip : #fbm1445 (Fitting, Hose End, AQP Socketless, Straight, -6 AN Hose Barb to Male -6 AN, Steel,)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1445/
aeroquip : # fcm1522(Fitting, Hose End, 45 Degree, -6 AN, -6 AN Adapter, Aluminum, Red/Blue)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcm1522/overview/
A rubber grommet to go on the air bridge.
I did add some sceallant around the grommet just in case but everything is perfect and no oil in my intake or air bridge.
Toque
#37
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
I just thought of something.
Does anyone know why I could not just "T" into the 3/8" hose going onto the side of my intake (where my catch can line goes into the FAST92).
Both my valve cover vent, and the catch can need to go into my intake manifold.
Both of these lines are 3/8".
So why can't I just tap into that line since both need to go to the same place in the intake... ???
Toque
Does anyone know why I could not just "T" into the 3/8" hose going onto the side of my intake (where my catch can line goes into the FAST92).
Both my valve cover vent, and the catch can need to go into my intake manifold.
Both of these lines are 3/8".
So why can't I just tap into that line since both need to go to the same place in the intake... ???
Toque
Last edited by Toque; 01-16-2014 at 08:58 AM.
#38
Safety Car
Again, if you are talking about the valve cover port, remember that is more for getting air into heads to allow oil to drain, not really to vent. It should work teeing into the line from catch can that goes into intake as there would be air available. It seems to me though, that you would be taking metered air that motor thinks is available and using somewhere else. Apparently it must not be a big deal as GM designed it this way by running the port back to the tb initially.
BTW, you should search the C6 Tech section for SpinMonsters breather setup. He does not run that hose from catch can back to intake. He just runs it to a breather cap and plugs that port on the intake. Zero chance of oil getting back thru intake.
From what I get, you don't hammer the car that much, so I don't think you would need any radical kind of set up. If you can get a breather cap to fit under your frc that would be the simplest or plug the port and do a painted breather oil cap for a little bling
BTW, you should search the C6 Tech section for SpinMonsters breather setup. He does not run that hose from catch can back to intake. He just runs it to a breather cap and plugs that port on the intake. Zero chance of oil getting back thru intake.
From what I get, you don't hammer the car that much, so I don't think you would need any radical kind of set up. If you can get a breather cap to fit under your frc that would be the simplest or plug the port and do a painted breather oil cap for a little bling
#39
Burning Brakes
Correct me if im wrong but the upper intake vent is sucking air in(to vent the crankcase) and the valve cover vent also suck air in to let the oil go down so it you cant put a "T" on it.
Start your car and unplug the upper intake vent(where the catch can connect) you will see that it sucks air in so if yo put a "T" on that line it will not provide air to the valve cover but will do the opposite.
You did put a catch can between the cranckcase and the intake to prevent oil vapor going into your intake,by putting a "T" on this line it will suck the oil vapor from the VC to the intake.
I did try it(2 years ago) but it really not did good...
P.S. Sorry for the numerous "edit" but english is not my first language.
Start your car and unplug the upper intake vent(where the catch can connect) you will see that it sucks air in so if yo put a "T" on that line it will not provide air to the valve cover but will do the opposite.
You did put a catch can between the cranckcase and the intake to prevent oil vapor going into your intake,by putting a "T" on this line it will suck the oil vapor from the VC to the intake.
I did try it(2 years ago) but it really not did good...
P.S. Sorry for the numerous "edit" but english is not my first language.
Last edited by always faster; 01-16-2014 at 09:44 AM.
#40
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
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I've never heard this story about letting air in so the oil goes down. That is a complete fabrication. I'm not sure why this has to be so convoluted and complicated.
Fresh filtered air goes into the valve cover and the contaminated air is pulled out at the valley plate into the intake via the intake vacuum where it is burned. The valley plate has a fixed orifice size instead of a PVC valve. The idea is to keep the contaminated air from being vented into the atmosphere and polluting the air we breath.
In stock configuration, the air is taken from the intake tract before the throttle blades so that it is filtered. A secondary effect is that it is metered by the MAF sensor but I doubt that makes much difference. The PVC or orifice vent is hooked up after the throttle blades so the engine sucks on it drawing the contaminants out.
So, the short answer is no, you can not hook the valve covers to vacuum.
Fresh filtered air goes into the valve cover and the contaminated air is pulled out at the valley plate into the intake via the intake vacuum where it is burned. The valley plate has a fixed orifice size instead of a PVC valve. The idea is to keep the contaminated air from being vented into the atmosphere and polluting the air we breath.
In stock configuration, the air is taken from the intake tract before the throttle blades so that it is filtered. A secondary effect is that it is metered by the MAF sensor but I doubt that makes much difference. The PVC or orifice vent is hooked up after the throttle blades so the engine sucks on it drawing the contaminants out.
So, the short answer is no, you can not hook the valve covers to vacuum.