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Winter project has begun!

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Old 12-13-2013, 05:43 PM
  #41  
rpmrollbar
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Parts don't show up til Monday so this weekend ill put that on my list. Better safe than sorry, besides its still easy to pull out torque tube at this moment. Exhaust not on yet, and tunnel plate still off as well. Good advice ill post up what I see in there.
Old 12-13-2013, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rpmrollbar
So wanted to add some clutch fluid to new system. Any reccomendations??
ATE Typ200 is good quality fluid for around $14-15 per liter.
Old 12-15-2013, 03:17 PM
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Got some parts back from powder , installing the tunnel plate today so new exhaust can go on. Hopefully LG headers go in easy? The swaybars ill wait to install after control arms are completed.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:14 AM
  #44  
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Got poly bushings today so started that project. Old bushings are actually pretty easy to press out. The alum tube is another story. Short of torching it out of the stock rubber bushing nothing seems to work. So instead ill just make another alum tube. No clean up and way faster. It's .97 OD by .250 wall , actually common size. Ordering that in morn. So tackled the oil pressure sensor replacement as well, got manifold off. Pretty easy only took about 20 min. Got new sensor in and just cleaning up area before I reinstall.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:16 AM
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Intake off! Yep crappy LS1 intake. Bottom was not flat
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Schmidt
You really should have opened up the torque tube and rebuilt the guibos. With that mileage and a life of drag racing. You will dropping the drive train again.... Soon. I think in 98 the ABS was in the rear too.
Old 12-18-2013, 10:34 AM
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Looking good! thanks for posting updates.

I started my engine and driveline removal. Mine won't progress as fast as yours though.
Old 12-18-2013, 05:19 PM
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Looks like fun , thanks for posting !
Old 12-18-2013, 05:38 PM
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Really bad practice pulling the cradle, differential, and torque tube together. Not sure why you painted the tunnel plate, I suspect that paint will last about 1 hour of driving.

Like others have stated, with that much mileage, rebuilding the torque tube is a no brainer. Many have done these same tasks on this forum, and documented them with the correct procedures.

Good luck.
Old 12-18-2013, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Schmidt
I think in 98 the ABS was in the rear too.
The EBTCM was located in the rear of the car for 97, and first half year 98, the latter half 98 the EBTCM was moved to the front.
Old 12-18-2013, 11:55 PM
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Tunnel plate is not painted, it's powder coated . Will take up to 600 degrees. Exhaust is not that hot that far back. This week the guibos is being replaced as well. Actually not that hard to pull assembly out and check/replace.
Old 12-19-2013, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 1999_TRC
Really bad practice pulling the cradle, differential, and torque tube together.
Why is this bad?
Old 12-19-2013, 07:39 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by TastyBacon
Why is this bad?
It's much easier to take the cradle out while supporting the trans and diff on jack stands, and then remove the diff, trans, and torque tube at once.
Old 12-19-2013, 04:01 PM
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I'm tuned in!! How was the interior on this car??
Old 12-19-2013, 05:07 PM
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I havnt tried taking cradle out while leaving diff/tranny assembly. Im taking it out again tonight to replace the guibos. Ill try it and see how it goes.
The interior on my car is ok, lol. It needs new seats which are still on the way. Carpet is fine along with all the plastic pieces. The door panels are worn, need something there. The center console im gonna hydro dip carbon fiber.
Old 12-19-2013, 05:43 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by rpmrollbar
I havnt tried taking cradle out while leaving diff/tranny assembly. Im taking it out again tonight to replace the guibos. Ill try it and see how it goes.
The interior on my car is ok, lol. It needs new seats which are still on the way. Carpet is fine along with all the plastic pieces. The door panels are worn, need something there. The center console im gonna hydro dip carbon fiber.
Prepare yourself for a really big snap ring. You will need snap ring pliers like these. You might be able to do it with really big needle nose, but the parts are all made from soft aluminum. They could get damaged.

Old 12-19-2013, 11:35 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by rpmrollbar
I havnt tried taking cradle out while leaving diff/tranny assembly. Im taking it out again tonight to replace the guibos. Ill try it and see how it goes.
The interior on my car is ok, lol. It needs new seats which are still on the way. Carpet is fine along with all the plastic pieces. The door panels are worn, need something there. The center console im gonna hydro dip carbon fiber.
If you aren't in a huge hurry to get the car back together, I'd hunt for an 01+ Torque tube. Larger diameter shaft, and 12mm bolts/guibos instead of 10mm.

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Old 12-20-2013, 04:35 AM
  #58  
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Worked on the bushings while some friends stopped by to help with the guibos. Again. Lol. I would definitely recommend getting the bushings with the alum spacers. Just a PITA and time consuming otherwise. Top control arms easy, lower not so much. First the bottom come one piece?? Impossible to press that in. And the lower ones on the rear have a steel sleeve that cannot be reused. Now have to fab up some kind of spacer for bottom one that has the toe setting. So get the more expensive set. WORTH it. The guys got torque tube out again, disassembly tomorow night. Some pics of the bushing fun. Good times...
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:38 AM
  #59  
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Well busy day, got driveline back in. Took apart
Torque tube and replaced coupler. Was pretty easy. Had help tho. With driveline back in, again, got all rear bushings installed. Assembled everything and got swaybar on as well. Looks killer. Front control arms are next.
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:40 AM
  #60  
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Swaybar powder really stands out. Little bit of bling. Wish I had more time to detail control arms and such!


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