Zixx06

Hi everyone! This is my first time posting something here so here I go ! ..I own a 2001 corvette zo6 . My car started to make a Noise which stops when I put foot down on clutch?If I'm parked up and take my car out of gear but leave engine running on it makes a noise which sort of sounds like something is spinning/ buzzing. If I put my foot down on the clutch the noise stops- it sounds like something is spinning and slows down when clutch is pressed. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but sometimes when I'm slowing down I can hear a very faint little noise. Anyone know if this is bad/ what's causing the problem or what part should i replace ??Thank you very much! @DIEGO

69

Hello,
Do you have any history on your clutch, aftermarket? OEM? Original to the car? Spirited driving lately? Any drive line work in the past 2 years?
What we need to do here is isolate the spinning movement of the clutch and TQ tube to understand where this noise is coming from.
Let’s see of if the problem is the clutch through-out bearing that could be making this noise.
Step 1) Fire the car up, place in neutral, engine at idle RPM, with clutch pedal all the way up, place foot on clutch pedal then slowly start to depress the clutch pedal, at some point as you posted the noise stops.
Step 2) Fire the car up, place in neutral, engine at idle RPM, with clutch pedal all the way to the floor, slowly start to raise the clutch pedal, at some point as you posted the noise stops.
Please post back how many inches the clutch pedal moves down/up before the noise stops.
Goose

bracketshark

Sounds to me like you might have a bearing issue probably on the input shaft end of the drive shaft. Regardless it sound to me like your fixing to spend a significant amount of money unless you can do the work yourself. If that is what it is don't wait to long that input shaft is EXPENSIVE. Ask me how I know. Consider changing everything questionable while you're in there. Good luck

racebum

throw out bearing can do this on any car. it's the weakest of the bearings in your driveline and also the cheapest. when you push the clutch in the bearing is under pressure which could be the reason why it goes way

regardless of what it is the driveline has to come out to get at any of the potential issues

i'd probably drive it till it gets worse and or you budget in a full clutch, coupler and seal job

bracketshark

Any car? All of the cars I've owned prior to the C5 the release bearing doesn't contact the pressure plate fingers until the clutch pedal is depressed, including my C3. With this said, does the C5 release bearing spin with the pressure plate full time, pedal depressed and pedal released? If it does then the release bearing might very well be the culprit. The exhaust is coming off my car this week to start the mods, I'll drop the cover and look to see if the bearing rides full time with the pressure plate fingers, it the only way I'll know for sure anyway. Sorry if I gave misleading info.

Supercharged111

I was going to say TT bearings.

bracketshark

I reread your post, if it slows when the clutch is pressed, as you described, the noise is in the driveshaft back. The drive shaft spins when the transmission is in neutral (with the clutch pedal out), as well as the internals of the tranny. I'm still going with the drive shaft bearings, I haven't seen or read of a lot of people having problems with them but mine did. "I" wouldn't waste much time getting this figured out, It probably isn't going to get any better or go away. Again, Good luck

bob22z06

I thought the ratelling noise is normal in these cars ..mine does it still, when sitting and idlling .... before I shut the car off i usually press the clatch and no noise.....I don't know if your is the same ...u might want to post a video so people can see and hear what you talking about...

racebum

i had a throw out bearing in one car that made a similar noise. it just went away under pressure. think marbles in a coffee can. compress them, no more noise

also could be the TT bearings but they are much higher quality bearings. anyway you stack it you have to pull it all apart. with any luck you will be able to tell by feel what the problem is

Old Rotor Head

69 - did you ever come up with a diagnosis?
I just started getting the same noise about a week ago.
1999, 160K, I've had it since new. 40K ago I had a complete clutch, slave, master cylinder, output shaft, TO bearing all C6Z components, Torque Tube bushings. change.

I start car in neutral pedal down no noise, start allowing pedal to go up and noise starts at about 2" of release. Noise continues with pedal up and in neutral. The noise varies in volume. Sometimes it gets better after I drive for a while.

Old Rotor Head

ttt

PRE-Z06

Sounds like you are having a similar case as the OP and that when it warms up the grease in the bearing is helping to finally quite it down once it becomes more fluid.

69

Hello ,
With the clutch pedal depressed to the floor, engine running AND Trans placed in any gear, (not neutral) the only bearings in “active rotation” are the pilot bearing and the clutch through-out bearing.
Note in this clutch and Trans configuration the TQ Tube drive shaft is not rotating (spinning) and the TQ Tube bearings are not in “active rotation”.
You can isolate these two bearings making noise as follows;
1) Place the Trans in gear, clutch pedal depressed to the floor start the engine. If you hear bearing noise in this configuration, you likely have a through-out bearing issue.
Pilot bearing isolation.
Typically a distressed pilot bearing will cause difficulty in shifting into 1st gear or reverse gear from a full stop as the bearing will not allow the TQ Tube drive shaft to stop rotating (spinning) with the clutch pedal depressed. You will know the pilot bearing is going bad when the car is at a full stop and you attempt to get 1st gear and there is a slight gear grind felt or heard.
TQ drive shaft bearing isolation
This can be difficult to troubleshoot but not impossible and I have had success in this method as we want to have the TQ Tube drive shaft rotating (spinning) faster than the engine RPM. The MN6 Trans has a gear ratio of 1to1 in fourth gear if I recall correctly (engine RPM same as TQ Tube drive shaft RPM).
Get the car out on a stretch of road up to “legal speed” at fourth gear quickly lift OFF the gas pedal, and stab the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal to the floor. Listen to see if the bearing noise is matching the speed of the car, (as the clutch is disengaged, engine RPM drops off to idle RPM, the rear wheels are now driving the TQ Tube drive shaft at a higher RPM when compared to engine RPM.
I hope that these tips will help you isolate the bearing noise and if you perform these tests, post back with your experiences.
Cheers,
Goose

SaberD

Since the noise goes away when you press the clutch pedal with the car parked and in neutral, that means the issue is definitely past the clutch assembly.

If the car is parked in neutral, and the clutch is engaged, then the driveshaft is spinning with the flywheel, so the pilot bearing is not spinning. When you press the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch, the driveshaft is no longer spinning. This means the torque tube bearings and the input shaft bearings to the transmission are no longer spinning - so those are the bearings that need to be looked at.

There is a very slim chance that the input shaft bearings to the transmission are the problem.

It is also possible that the throwout bearing is worn. When enough pressure is then applied to the bearing, it can cause the noise to go away even if the bearing is bad.

How many miles does it have? When you tear it apart, check the torque tube bearings, couplers, and throwout bearing. Depending on the miles, you may want to replace all these components anyways. Also spin the input shaft to the transmission with it in neutral to listen for any signs of wear.

Old Rotor Head

Thanks 69 I'll let you know.

Old Rotor Head

Thanks Saber. Car has 160k on it. I did a full R&R at 120k of everything from the clutch back. This doesn't mean something hasn't gone south. My new GM slave cylinder started leaking about 3k miles after install and had to pay to replace clutch assembly again,

Old Rotor Head

Thanks for the help. I took the old gal out for a 10 mile spin. The noise was there when I started it up but went away after about 2 miles into the drive. Based on what you guy's have told me it's probably the Torque Tube Bearings. I'll keep an ear on it and get it to the shop after the Holidays.