Pchild

Been driving the car a lot lately. Drove it like I stole it yesterday.

Turned the car off yesterday after a hard sprint, went to restart it a few minutes later, and nothing. Enough voltage to power the windows, and display, but car wouldn't turn over.

Pop Started it, fired right up, DIC said 11.8 volts. I assumed the alternator was going bad. Drove it home, during that period of time the DIC jumped from 11.8 to 13.9. 90% of the time it was in the 11.8 range.

Battery was still too dead to start the car when I got home.

Figured it was a bad alternator, replaced it this morning, jump started it, same issue. DIC started at 11.5 volts slowly climed to 13.9, then drop back down to 12.5, took it for a short ride, dropped to 11.5.

Took my battery and OE alternator to Autozone both tested fine, replaced the new alternator with the OE since it tested ok, and the problem persisted with the new one.

Started reading threads looks like the Solenoid in the starter is a common problem, so I wiggled my hand down there and giggled the wires a little, and it looked loose.

I recently did a LT install, and I was warned about this wire getting too close to the header and melting, so I made sure during the install that it was out of reach, and torqued on tight.

Using a long extension and a swivel socket I was able to reach it very easily, but under extremely light torque it snapped completely off!

I'm guessing this was my problem, we'll know soon after I replace it... now I have to take my header loose... uggh. What a pain.

racebum

headers shorten starter life via heat as it is and the solenoid is the main failure item

when the solenoid was failing on my car it would either start or act plain dead. no clicking, no noise, you could rock the car back and forth in gear and it would usually come back and start again

replaced the starter with a new ac delco, no problem since

by the way a good starter - alt shot can test your alternator under load if you bring it in out of the car and tell you just how many amps and how many volts it's putting out

65GGvert

I know of two other cars (both z06's w/headers) that had the same symptoms and the starter solenoid connection was loose, not the cable, the post itself was loose and the bakelite around it crystalized. Starters fixed both, at least until it heats up again.

tacman

Here's my 2 cents-worth as posted previously, based on personal experience: I had charging issues with my '01 Z. After installing two different p/n's (one recommended for my car by a dealer), the third p/n finally charged correctly. Nothing else was done or changed other than the alternators. Bottom line is this, make sure you match the OEM p/n!

Bill Curlee

Once the main high current carrying wires on the solenoid became LOOSE,, it was what caused the plastic on the solenoid to become burnt /brittle and break.. A loose connection in a high current circuit generates a LOT of heat.

That connection needs to be clean and properly torqued.

Bill

Pchild

Your articles were spot on Bill. Thanks, I just saw your post after replacing the solenoid.

I installed the Long Tubes about a month ago. I personally connected the power wires to the starter, and know they had clearance, clean, and a solid connection.

The solenoid is 12 years old, I guess that's just too long and the added heat from the Long Tubes finished it off.

The wires were never lose or had a bad connection, the solenoid gave way internally, and the bolt literally fell off.

I did have a few warning signs. A drive or two prior to it crapping out I happend to notice when I raised the rpm (neutral rev, or hard acceleration) the voltage actually dipped. It would go from 14.x down to 12.x and then instantly climb back up to 14.x The entire process taking about 1 second.

Now with the new solenoid it doesn't dip what so ever, under any rev. I'm not sure how long it was doing this, I just happened to notice it a few drives prior to it crapping out.

Here are a few pics of the old solenoid.




In the pic below, you can see the square discolored copper area, that's where the bolt attached inside the solenoid... it's like it just peeled off.

65GGvert

Yep, just like yours.

lionelhutz

It's not connected there. That is the contact that moves back into the end of the terminal. The terminal is just mounted in the phenolic with no electrical connection to anything.

CactusCat

Pchild, just wanted to take a moment to say thanks for posting the end results. So many times it seems folks come to the forum and ask questions, get some very good ideas on what to do to resolve their problems, then don't post if they ever got it fixed or not. Very much appreciate you sharing your results (and pics no less!!). These are things that help others immensely when they have the same issues. Muchas gracious!!!

warlock007

agreed CactusCat.

Pchild

For that reason I try to follow up with my results, often times I see people comment "will post back with results" and never do. I'm sure I forget from time to time, but this forum has been an amazing resource for me. Any contribution I can add I will try.